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GE dryer won't heat


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21 replies to this topic

#1 Schrup

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Posted 24 August 2005 - 07:45 PM


I have an old GE dryer Model # DDE 6500 GBLAD serial # TD2 49677G. It runs but won't heat. My wife thinks it was intermittent before now. I have to either have it fixed by Saturday or buy a new one according to my wife. I can't really afford a new one at this point, so I hope to fix it unless you guys think I'm better off buying a new one.

I've done a little research here & am pretty sure it's not my power source. I have already disassembled the dryer thanks to this site & the element doesn't looked charred anywhere. I strongly suspect the problem to be the red switch that I'm pointing to in the attached pic. It seems to make a clicking noise when I bump it. I'll probable replace the belt as well. I would like to use the process of elimination, starting with the cheaper items. I'm no good with electricity & don't even know how to use an amp meter although I believe I have one. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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#2 Pegi

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Posted 25 August 2005 - 05:09 AM

These old G.E. dryers are worth keeping, one of the best dryers out there.  That is your safety thermostat and it could be your problem.  Check to see if this is good or not with your ohm meter.  these dryers were also known to burn the wires off of the cycling thermostat that is located in the front of the dryer under the lint filter.
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#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 August 2005 - 04:24 PM

Yep, one of the oldy-but-modies. Fix this'n.

#4 exsearsguy

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Posted 25 August 2005 - 05:33 PM

Schrup,those elements might be ok but they are sagging quite a bit. Since you have your dryer this open you might want to consider replacing them now. Just a thought.

#5 Schrup

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 05:50 PM

[user=533]Pegi[/user] wrote:

these dryers were also known to burn the wires off of the cycling thermostat that is located in the front of the dryer under the lint filter.



BINGO!!! Pegi, you nailed it, now my problem is trying to figure out how to rewire it. Are these two thermostats wired in series? I have 3 wires, red, purple, & yellow, but 4 prongs (2 on each thermostat) to attach them to. The wires were burnt so bad, I can tell which wire went where. Does anyone have any idea? Does anyone know the difference between the two thermostats? here are links to both http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=276724

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=276725

I think I will replace the heating element because of the sagging, should I also replace both cycling thermostats as well because they got so hot? I checked them both with an ohm meter & they don't show any resistance. What would cause all that heat? The dryer was here when I bought the home a year ago, is it from not keeping the lint filter clean? I'm sure glad it didn't start a fire, things were pretty melted.

I wish I could have posted all this last night, but I was to tired when I got home. The wifes deadline is approaching soon :shock:

Here is a pic of my mess.

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#6 Pegi

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 06:12 PM

The 135* one is low heat and the 145* is for high heat.  check the vent to the outside, the dryer may have overheated due to blocked air flow.  See if the tech sheet is still in the console, it will tell you how these were wired and you can just splice some wire in there to complete your wiring job. If it is not there I can look to see if I have something in my old tech sheets I have saved from dryers we have disposed of.
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#7 Schrup

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 06:26 PM

Pegi, I would really appreciate it if you could do that for me, I looked all over the dryer & could only find the simple connect diagram. Thank you very much for your time & expertice!!! I have the wire & conectors to make the splice, does it matter which side of the thermostats the wires go on?

#8 Schrup

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 06:32 PM

[user=2990]Schrup[/user] wrote:

Pegi, I would really appreciate it if you could do that for me, I looked all over the dryer & could only find the simple connect diagram. Thank you very much for your time & expertice!!! I have the wire & conectors to make the splice, does it matter which side of the thermostats the wires go on?

 Nevermind Pegi, I foung it inside, thanks!

#9 Schrup

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 08:33 PM

 Thanks a lot everyone for the input, especially Pegi!!! I got it rewired & tested the element tonight. Tomorrow I will reassemble everything. This is sweet for a number of reasons,  my wife will be a little less skeptical of my do-it-yourself skills, I can now order some refurbish parts from the company that sponsors this awesome BB, & most important, I can play golf Sunday without the dryer hanging over my head.

 I'm thinking I'll order a new element, belt, & a bushing for the drum. Can you guys think of anything else I should get to prolong the life in this beast another 5 years. I'll probable replace it when the washer goes out, I've had some bad experiences repairing washers & don't care to ever go through that again. It was an old Whirlpool, first the pump went out, then after I replaced that, a few months later the transmission went, then something else I don't care to remember. So I hope the pair can last me another 5 years, then I'll buy a new set.

 Again Thanks:)

 

BTW, the vent hose was crimped when I moved in, but I didn't notice it for a couple of weeks. That is probable what caused the problem to begin with, glad it didn't catch fire.:burning:


#10 Pegi

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 04:50 AM

Thanks, glad this is all coming together for you.  Replace the front glides the drum rides on also and be sure to oil the felt with the turbine oil that comes with them, will make the dryer run so smooth and quiet. If the teflon glides look good then just oil the felt under them with light weight oil like 3 in1 oil.   Belt, rear drum shaft bearing and the idler pulley....will be like new, you want to keep this dryer and be sure the air flow is good to the outside.  ;)
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#11 Neophyte

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Posted 07 September 2005 - 05:58 PM

Hello all.  As others have said... Wow, this really is quite the site. 

I am glad to hear that this happens to be one of the better dryers out there.  I recently moved into a small condo (recovering divorcee) and discovered the GE  DDE5900RALAD electric dryer that came with the place overheating.  After initial digging on this site, I located the cycling thermostat and its burned wires. The metal housing covering this thermostat was literally packed with lint, frighteningly resembling a tinderbox.   

I have not completed any repair(s) yet.   I plan on re-testing all the thermostats and splicing fresh wire in place of the burned sections.  My question would be; is there anything else I should check as a potential cause of this problem before I reassemble the dryer and see how it works? Is it possible that that packed-in lint interfered with the functioning of the thermostat?  Doesn't seem too likely to me, as lint probably isn't a great conductor, but anytime something bridges both terminals of an electrical device, I get uncomfortable. :?      

After years of working on cars, it's about time I start getting a handle on some of these items from around the home!  Pegi, and all Masters, do you prefer "Sensei" or "Shidoshi"? :D  I must express my respect and regard for those who not only possess such a degree of knowledge and experience, but take the time share it for the benefit of folks like me.  Thank you!    

 

 


#12 Neophyte

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Posted 07 September 2005 - 06:06 PM

To be more specific, the excessive heat is only present during operation of the dryer.  I imagine it's not getting hot enough to "trip" the other thermostats, however it is hot enough to cause the long sides of the lint trap to bow in. 

#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 September 2005 - 06:52 PM

Replace both of those thermostats in the lint filter cubby. Here're the direct links to the parts:

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=276724

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=276725


#14 Neophyte

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Posted 07 September 2005 - 07:13 PM

Both?  I only found one in that area, that being the L145-15, however, if the L135 is not one of those on top of the heating element housing, (those are the higher-limit ones though, aren't they?)  I'll check further in the area around the lint filter area to find that guy.      

Nonetheless, I shall replace them upon locating the L135.

 

   


#15 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 September 2005 - 07:46 PM

Diagram for your dryer shows two (items 315 and 316).

#16 Pegi

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Posted 08 September 2005 - 05:30 AM

These wires burn and melt because of the high heat that crosses thru this area.  And if the vent from the dryer is blocked in any way this adds to the problem.  The area under the lint filter is known to clog with lint and is why we suggest everyone take their dryer apart once a year and clean them out to prevent dryer fires.  I am pleased we were able to help both of you find the problem and save these good old dryers....;)
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#17 Pegi

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Posted 08 September 2005 - 05:37 AM

Reguarding the one or two cycling thermostats, your breakdown does show two and you would have two holes to mount them into, however sometimes they do make mistakes in the breakdowns from the manufacturer so if there is only one hole to mount a thermostat into this might be an error in the drawing and you would just be replacing the one which was usually 155* , but if yours is 145* go with that temp.  They  would both be mounted side by side under the lint filter.  The one on the element is the hi-limit safety about 325* I believe.  The schematic will be in the console of the dryer, pull that out and see what is shows, how many should be there.   Be sure the air flow from the dryer is good when you have it back together and the air flow to the outside is equal with the vent hose hooked back up. That is the cause of most dryer problems and fires, blocked vents.
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#18 Neophyte

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Posted 11 September 2005 - 11:21 AM

Thank you Fermented Grand Master and Pegi.  Indeed, there is but one hole located in the area below the lint filter.  I did also see two thermostats listed in the Repair Clinic's interactive diagram...

I have cleaned out  lint from all areas of the dryer and I am glad to say that it blows strongly out the outlet with the vent tubing disconnected, and it feels like the volume is good coming out of the exterior vent with the ducting in place. 

A question about wire; would pretty much any stranded copper electrical wire of the same gauge (14) and voltage (600) rating do well to replace the burned sections, or should I use purpose-specific wire that may have tougher jacket material/insulation and/or any other qualifications?

 

   


#19 Pegi

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Posted 11 September 2005 - 04:29 PM

You are welcome.....you may use what wire the original is rated, just check it now and then and make sure your crimps and connections are tight...It usually takes years for these to get in bad shape, just clean the dryer and check these every year to be sure all is ok....  :)
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#20 Pegi

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Posted 11 September 2005 - 04:35 PM

***Is it possible that that packed-in lint interfered with the functioning of the thermostat?*** This lint blockage blocked the air flow thru the dryer, causing it to over heat and burn/melt the wires, the heat could not shut off on this thermostat since the air flow over it was blocked......this is caused by either a lint filter that needs replacing or the vent was blocked to the outside, backing the lint up into the dryer.....dryers with the lint system down in the door area all do this so take it apart once a year and clean them out....
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