Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

  • Announcements

    • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

      Topics with the complete and accurate model number in the topic title will get priority attention. You can validate your model number by entering into the form on this page: http://www.repairclinic.com/?clearLs=true For more help on using Appliantology effectively, please see this page:  
Jimbo123456

(washer) Kenmore 110-20072992 spin problems

4 posts in this topic

I've got a Kenmore model 110-20072992 (Whirlpool, yes?) washer which is acting weird.

It fills and agitates fine, but on spin, it either:

- works fine (not common)

- buzzes

- does nothing and is silent

- motor runs, but doesn't actually spin

Often, and I believe in the latter case, there will be kind of a burning smell, and it actually permeates into the clothing being washed and makes it stink even when the wash is done. Smells kinda like burnt rubber.

I could swear that I've seen it at least once or twice too, when during the rinse/agitate cycle, the motor would run, but it would not agitate. I think that case also made the burning smell occur.

I've noticed that at least sometimes, the motor seems to have overheated (I think that's when it is just silent), and the time-remaining will not advance. In almost all cases, if I wait long enough (half hour, sometimes an hour) with the washer paused, I can come back and restart it and it will continue the cycle. I had gotten into the habit of propping the door slightly open while agitating, so the open lid switch would stop it before trying to spin, so it would NOT start stinking up my clothes.

Most recently I've noticed that when it won't spin (and it buzzes), if I open the lid and just manually turn the basket (this is as it's trying to start the spin cycle, and there is a lot of resistance when I turn the basket), then if I close the lid, it'll often start up -- almost as though the basket is getting "stuck" somehow after the agitate and I am jerking it free or something. But if I don't do that, and I just wait a while, then it'll usually work too.

I read on this site about the drive motor couplers, and ordered one, and went to take my washer apart tonight, and took the motor off, and the one I've got actually looks OK, it looks the same (triangle-shaped) as the replacement I got, and all of the teeth are intact, the rubber is not deformed or broken, etc... I was all excited that it would be a quick repair and then was disappointed that this wasn't it.

I checked the motor windings according to the service info included in the washer and they seem OK -- not exactly the impedances claimed as correct (between 2 ~ 2.6 ohms, I measured a little under that), but close. The capacitor seems OK too, from the simple ohmmeter test.

What's left? Has anyone seen one like this before? It would be a lot easier if it just NEVER would spin, but it does spin -- it's just real finicky about it and seems to only like to spin when it's had a chance to cool down. (Or, if I start it up directly in a "drain & spin" cycle after it's been off for a while, it'll always work fine. It only starts to fail after it's been running previously, e.g. agitating).

The washer is 5.5 years old. It did something similar when it was about 2 years old and would not spin, and the repair guy found that there was some kind of metal part, like a bushing? that the basket sat on? which had become worn down and he said he'd seen a number of those parts and he thought they must have been poorly made. In that case, the washer did spin, just not fast enough to really get any water out of the clothes.

We're thinking about ditching it and getting a front-load since they're more energy/water efficient, but it's not a good time for that kind of expense right now, and if I can fix it with a $15 part, that's what we want to do!

Thanks in advance!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

It would be a shame to toss a machine like yours its not a cheap unit. Sure sounds like a starting issue from what your describing. The cheapest thing to try yourself would be a new start capacitor sometimes they test fine cold but once used they can act funny. That or there is a partially broken red wire for start cuirciut on capacitor  but would usually efect wash aswell. Sounds like the drive block was changed out. I would say its worth calling a tech out if you can't get it resolved. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good advice on the start cap. Also, the wire harness to that cap has been a trouble-maker. Eliminate the cap and harness as suspects and then, if the problem persists, we'll turn our hoary gaze upon the timer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks! I'm sure the cap is a cheap enough part, so I'll try replacing it and see what happens.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites