Dryer Duct Cleaning Tools
Posted 06 March 2010 - 04:09 PM
. Twice this week I could have used a 4" duct brush better than the one I have. The flexible shaft, like a plumbing snake, just isn't too useful and not long enough.
I was considering one of these that hooks up to a drill:
The stiffness works to get it down the pipe. Just don't put the drill in reverse or the shafts unscrew inside the duct.
. Here's a video:
$30 for the set, $22 to add an additional 12' of shafts.
. What do the rest of you use? And what do you think of this product?
Posted 06 March 2010 - 05:22 PM
Posted 08 March 2010 - 04:53 PM
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Posted 10 March 2010 - 03:41 PM
Robbyrig: Glad I used it with a vacuum on my first try!! I thought I might save a step and hook it up to the dryer, but it would have blown out a few gallons of lint right to where I had to stand to feed it in. The LintCatcher assesory would stop the tarred and feathered look. You can see it in the video, and it might be easy to make your own. Why use a leafblower instead of a shop vac or the dryer itself?
We use the linteater along with hooking up an electric leaf blower on the inside. Works extremely well. You end up looking like you've been tarred and feathered when you're done.
. Picked up the Linteater earlier in the day at locally owned hardware store. Linteater cost $31, and they ordered a set of extensions for me for $17. No shipping, and cheaper than buying online, anyway.
. Went out that evening to service a dryer, and gave them a free cleaning too just to try it out. I was going to get out the vacuum to clean out the dryer anyway, so I hooked the duct up so that just so I wouldn't leave a mess in their driveway. I hadn't considered that if I did it the quick and dirty way, by letting the dryer blow out the lint, that it would be me that ended up quick and dirty!
. Just hooked up the extensions by hand. They got plenty tight enough that way, so that I still had to put pliers on to seperate them afterwards. If I were cleaning out a vent that ran within a finished wall and ceiling, I probably would tighten them with pliers and put duct tape on the joints, as suggested, to make sure that if the drill accidentally got reversed and the extentions unscrewed from each other that I wouldn't have linteater parts stuck in the ducting behind drywall. If all the is ducting accesible, though, even in the extreemely unlikely event the drill did get put in reverse, I could always just open up the duct to get it out. So the extra caution wouldn't be necessary.
. They had foil ducting, and the manual said to use extra care with vinyl (which should be replaced anyway) and foil. I ran it on the slow and cautious side, and it worked great. I was surprised that the foil didn't get nicked up at all. I got two or three gallons in my Shop Vac. Had to use duct tape to connect the hose of the shop vac to the adapter, because I have the small size hose on my vacuum.
Posted 16 April 2010 - 05:00 PM
Posted 16 April 2010 - 05:19 PM
. Took out a foot or so of nest, followed by a couple of feet of lint. The clog attachment wasn't working it was in there so hard, but the brush could spin in, and pull pieces back out. Took a few tries, but nothing else would have worked.
Posted 25 April 2010 - 05:07 AM
Posted 25 April 2010 - 05:28 AM
One on one repair help now available !
Posted 25 April 2010 - 08:24 AM
Posted 14 June 2010 - 05:36 PM
You're right: common sense accompanied by reading the directions. Did your boss see that the metal head, isn't a "cutter" head at all it a blockage remover. That is only supposed to be used by hand! The brush goes on a drill but not the blockage remover. I suppose you could use the blockage remover on a drill if you are VERY careful.
The next day we cut out the ceiling and found the vent pipe disconnected in 2 places and the metal "cutter" head had started chewing into some HVAC flex vent! I still think this can be a good tool to have on hand, but some common sense needs to be used also.
Still, I do get nervous using the thing in pipes that aren't exposed so I can easily open them if things go wrong.
Posted 26 June 2010 - 11:04 PM
... we have a ton of units here with foil or plastic vent ...
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Posted 02 July 2010 - 06:14 PM
Been using the Linteater a lot.
Another tip: make sure you tape the flapper on the outside exhaust hood open before hooking up the vacuum cleaner to the duct. I turned on the vacuum, got up to go outside, and I heard the flapper slam close and a section of ducting split open. This was no big deal as the duct was all exposed, easily assesible, and the seam just snapped back together. It would have been a nightmare if the duct was in a ceiling or in a wall!
Second tip: remove or breakup any total blockages with the blockage tool, before you turn on a vacuum. If there is no airflow through the vacuum because the duct is completely blocked, you will overheat the vacuum and burn out the motor.
Posted 03 July 2010 - 05:39 AM
The handle is long enough to reach the 90 deg elbow, about 14" in, and I can't clean this way any farther than that. It's one of those rectangular flat sliding adjustable dryer duct thingies at that point. There don't seem to be any flow restrictions but I try to keep the parts I can access as clear as possible.
Posted 06 July 2010 - 06:27 PM
Doesn't blocking the air going into a vacuum motor underlaod the motor ? If you put a current clamp on the motor, the draw goes down significantly with the suction port blocked
If there is no airflow through the vacuum because the duct is completely blocked, you will overheat the vacuum and burn out the motor.
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Posted 23 July 2010 - 08:20 AM
It senses backpressure in the dryer duct due to lint buildup and trips an alarm From the website:
The LintAlert® is a smart, easy-to-install home safety device that uses pressure differential technology to monitor your dryer's ventilation system. When any blockage occurs, back pressure is produced. When a dangerous level has been detected the device will initiate an alert mode. The SmartTap™ fitting is installed in the transition hose at or near the dryers exhaust port and is connected to the alarm module by the 1/8" tube.
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