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Maytag Dryer DE606 will not start, buzzes angrily


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6 replies to this topic

#1 burnellj

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 11:08 AM

My trusty Maytag Dryer is angry with me.  When I try to start it by pressing in the all-purpose dial, it just buzzes at me.  I suspect that this buzzing is coming from the solenoid that dings the bell and resets the arms on the control switch.

I removed the back cover and I can spin the drum with my hand and watch it spin the pulleys and the motor from the back.  I tried spinning the drum while holding the door switch and having my assistant press the start dial, but still got nothing but angry buzzing.

Before you say that this is just the motor registering its disapproval with my laundry, let me say I next pulled the motor out.  Of the five connections on the switch (Red, white, blue, green and yellow), I wired a 120VAC plug up to the red and white terminals and the motor started right up with no hesitation and happily spun sitting on my living room floor.  Don't worry- I was careful not to let my 15-month old touch the wires.

Even with the motor removed, my dryer still buzzes at me when I try to start it.  If I open the dryer door, it does not buzz at me when I try to start it, so I suppose the door switch is OK.  My voltmeter says I am getting 240 between the two outside terminals where the cord connects.

This dryer does not have a timer, only a dial with four settings- Regular, Perm Press, Damp Dry, and Air Fluff.  Looking under the cover, there are four arms coming out of the control switch and the back plane of the dial is cut so as to press the correct button when turned to a certain setting.

I fiddled with this control arm solenoid and its paper-clip link last year when the dryer would not shut off.  I was able to fix that by cleaning the copper-wound sensors on the agitator bars inside the dryer.  It seems that the link, solenoid, and switch are acting properly, but how can I be sure, short of replacing the switch and seeing if that fixes it?  I guess I would rather make sure that is the problem before I start blindly replacing things. 


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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 01:13 PM

I can't find a wiring diagram for that (1968 ?) model (yet),
unless you have one and scan scan & upload it.
 

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#3 Trying to help

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 02:17 PM

What is buzzing so, even with the motor removed.  Is it the solenoid that the paper clip attaches too?  Also, you stated have 240 between the two outside legs, what do you have from outside to middle while the unit is making the buzzing sound?  Try each outside to middle just sitting there, then each outside to middle with it buzzing.

The power down to your motor at the instant of start is from white to red and stays running with 120VAC between Yellow w Green tracer to Red after the knob is released.  If you incoming voltage cks are fine that I described in the first section, try the White to Red with the timer knob (not really a timer but you got the drift my Ginger Ale drinking friend) pushed in and the buzzing happening.  

   

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#4 burnellj

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 09:18 AM

Thanks for the replies!  The solenoid is indeed what is making the buzzing.  It is quite powerful and I, young grasshopper that I am, am intimidated by its power and afraid that by holding in the start dial I am going to hurt something. 

Measuring V from outside to middle, I get 120V on each side when unit is sitting there. 

I will measure the voltage that the motor is receiving with the timer knob pushed in.  That is a good idea.  That should eliminate the motor as being the problem, correct?  I am thinking it is a controls issue.

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#5 burnellj

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 09:31 AM

The schematic is glued to the underside of the top control cover.  I will get pics up after I get home from work, so you won't see them until tomorrow.

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#6 Trying to help

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Posted 18 March 2010 - 01:28 PM

If you have a Neutral dropping out under load, you can have that solenoid scream if the L2 finds a way to it.  if you can, unhook the solenoid, have the motor hooked up and check the two outside legs to the middle under-load and see if your 120VAC is staying constant.  Voltage tests with no load are not a reliable test.  
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#7 burnellj

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 11:11 AM

As an update, (internet is difficult for me to find over the weekend):

This is one of those times which is frustrating, but a relief at the same time.  The dryer is working normally again.  I did not do anything except remove the motor and put it back in, remove some wires from the control switch, and put them back on (both things that I had already done.)  I have dried a few loads and everything seems normal.  If anyone is interested in measurements from a pretty much stock Maytag DE606 dryer circa about 1967, including the capacitance of the capacitor, let me know.

If or when this happens again, I will probably be back here again.  Thank you all so much for your help.  Sorry we could not get a more definitive diagnosis and fix.

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