Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn Circuit Fu, the ancient lost art of appliance repair…

Click here to check out our structured, online appliance repair training courses for rookies and experienced techs.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Stay connected with us...

Samurai on Facebook - become a fan today! Sign up for our free newsletter and keep up with all things Appliantology. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for lots of appliance repair tips and help! Follow the Samurai on Twitter and get timely morsels of Appliantological Wisdom! Subscribe to our MST Radio podcast to learn secrets of the trade.
wizguber

GE Oven Problem

9 posts in this topic

Greetings Goo Roo's and thanks in advance for any help. 

GE Model number (from the tag, read with a flashlight) is a JKP45W0A2WW.  In a nutshell the bottom unit (double oven top & bottom) won't heat up.  Grab a beer this is a long story....

Some history.  About 6-mo ago the top oven stopped baking while the bottom unit worked ok.  Armed with a little knowledge and the internet, I order and replaced the thermostat as well as the bake element thinking I'd kill all birds with few stones.  The top oven returned to operation, but would not heat as fast as the bottom unit.  Wife complained...I learned to ignore it.  Top oven eventually gets to temperature.  Most interesting is that I had time to play with the "bad" parts.  The bake element had no outward problems and measured 21-ohms resistance.  The thermostat was around 1k-ohm at room temp.  Both sound good compared to stuff I've since read.  This (top) oven with "new and improved parts" still operates.

This weekend, the bottom (ole faithful) oven stopped working.  No broil, no bake.  I gingerly pulled the bake element and got 20-ohms end-to-end with no shorts.  Also pulled the thermostat element and verified operation...1019 ohms at room temp and the resistance increases when heat applied.  Also I re-installed the thermostat, turned the oven to BAKE and then held a flame under the thermostat.  Temperature reading on the digital display changed from 100 deg-F and increased up to 400 deg-F as expected.  Looks like the thermostat feedback to the controller display is working.  Still no joy on oven operations.

When I enable any of the oven modes, I can hear the control relays clicking, but have not verified any power is being switched.  I pulled the control panel away from the oven (with the breakers OFF) and can see that everything looks nice and tidy, but have not probed the control board. 

Is it worth trying to debug this control board?  Is this the next likely culprit?  Do these things break?

Thanks !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Konichiwa. In your wanderings through the innards of your range, you probably stumbled across the wiring diagram and schematic for this range. I need to see those. Post them here in this thread as attachments. If you don't have scanning capability, fax them to me at 775-416-4449.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK. Found the schematics and scanned them.  Four Documents total:  (2) front page and (2) back page.  Because of file size limits, I'll send these as separate posts.  In the past couple days the top oven has now stopped working also.

Got a suggestion to look at the limit switch.

Again, thanks for the help.

 

jkp45_1_Front.zip

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bring tidings of great joy to the appliantology altar. 

After looking at the schematics and testing everything I could from the front, I pulled the whole oven out of the wall and removed all the wiring covers.  Turns out the circuit to all the heating elements was not getting closed.  Traced back further to the control board relays that connect Line-1 and Line-2 to each of the elements.  Took the control boards off the unit and after some close examination found that the solder joints that connect source power to the boards were LOUSY !  I don't consider myself a solder gun jockey, but give me a break.  The poor joints had obviously seen some over-heating.  I cleaned 'em up and using a man-sized gun (no offense) applied fresh solder around the relays.  Joints that were bad were the feeder joints that supply (connect) the line voltages for both the BROIL and BAKE elements.  Which explains why everything seemed dead.

After a quick re-assembly, I've got relays clicking...240V across the elements and oven HEAT !!

Ahhh.  Not bad for a Saturday Afternoon.  Miller Time !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is an inspiring repair story, even more incredible because it was your first real repair of this kind (that I'm aware of anyway-- if you're an old hand at this, don't tell me because it diminishes the fascination appeal :P).

Great work! I definitely marking this thread as one of the selected ones both for the unique findings and because it serves as a beacon of inspiration for other grasshoppers. I've also promoted you to an Apprentice Appliantologist. Congratulations! :cheers:

P.S. If you get a chance to post photos of the offending solder joints and your repair, that would be much appreciated. :dude:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd love to post pics just for braggin rights, but now that I've reassembled the oven and the control panel, there's NO WAY I'm taking it apart again.  Thanks again for the insight and for such a great website !

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites