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GSH GE refrigerator does not defrost


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10 replies to this topic

#1 Gee I hate GE

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Posted 23 April 2005 - 08:41 PM

I've had it with this GE Ice maker.  The blades have broken through the ice dispensing bin and jammed.  Water drips from the ice maker onto the bin full arm and the ice maker quits making ice. 

I understand I can replace this ice maker with one from Whirlpool?  I would assume the dispenser bin would still be the same piece of ****?  Do I only need to replace the part of the bin where the blades rotate, and why would this be doing this?  If I replace this part of the bin, will the blades continue to rub against it and cut through it again?

I'm just about to buy a new fridge... And it won't be a GE.  For that matter, either will any other item I purchase!

GIHGE


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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 April 2005 - 03:26 PM

[user=368]Gee I hate GE[/user] wrote:

I understand I can replace this ice maker with one from Whirlpool?


Yes, this can be done, although it's unlikely that you'll find a nice, tidy kit that'll do this for you; you'll have to do some jack-legging on the wiring harness and possibly the icemaker mounting, depending on your fridge. More info on replacement kits here.

#3 Gee I hate GE

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Posted 09 September 2005 - 11:20 AM

Before I get to the main reason I post this message, I thought I would update a previous post.  I wrote previously about replacing my GE ice maker with a Whirlpool.  After studying the problem and consulting a friend who was an applicance repairman, I was able to make some "corrective modifications" to the GE ice maker.  On the icemaker itself I took it apart and cleaned the leading lip (under the plastic, where the water leaked).  Per my friend, I placed some silicoln grease there.  Leaking problem solved... no more frozen bin full arm.  I then took the bin apart and cut the end off of the plastic nut on the end of the augger, which had broken.  I then installed a stainless washer and reverse thread nut.  I also had to replace the ice crusher housing cover (only about $9.00, though).  For less than the cost of a service call, I now have a pretty reliable ice maker.

Now, on to the reason for my post.  My refrigerator has now stopped defrosting.  I have ohmed out the defrost heater, fill tube heater, and checked the over temperature thermostat.  I can short pins J-11 to J-9 on the control board and the defroster kicks in.  Therefore, I assume this is a control board issue?.?.?  Is there any way to force this board into defrost, as there is no defrost timer on this refrigerator?  

I have considered pulling the board and testing the relay and other board circuitry.  Has anyone done board level diagnostics and repair on any of these?  I'm certain it's probably just the defrost relay, a transistor, or a diode.  Frankly, I'm just as inclined to replace the entire refrigerator at this point, as the ice flap is now sticking open.  I don't beleive my 25cf is covered under the "door replacement fix."  Anyone have any information on this?

And assistance would be greatly appreciated, as I'm looking at a Kenmore (Whirlpool) at Sears for $849.00 on sale.

Gee I Hate GE


#4 Pegi

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Posted 09 September 2005 - 11:55 AM

You can only test the defrost system on the board, there is no way to put the frig into defrost on the G.E. ref's with this board, it will stay in the mode it is in when the testing is being done, should have about 3 amps I believe thru this jumper, if the defrost heater is coming on, sounds like you need to replace this board if you did get the heater to come on and had 3 amps thru the jumper.
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#5 Gee I hate GE

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Posted 11 September 2005 - 05:43 AM

Thank you Pegi.  I guess the $122.00 price tag on this part has made my decision for me.  I looked at the Kenmore units, and decided an upgraded unit from the one on sale was best.  I would rather sink $1000.00 in a new refrigerator than $122.00 for this part every three years.

Gee I Hate GE


#6 Pegi

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Posted 11 September 2005 - 11:27 AM

Be careful with buying a Kenmore, they make nothing, is made for them and you might get another G.E frig without knowing it, and you will be at the mercy of the indeference of the Sears repair  system, you will not be able to go to the actual manufacturer since it will be the property of Sears. If the prefix on the frig you are looking at is 363. it is a G.E. brand box.   Better to buy a frig with the Whirlpool, Kitchenaid, Roper, Estate on the front, they are all Whirlpool and you will not have to deal with Sears for any warranty issues.  Kitchenaide seems to have the better warranty service even tho it is a Whirlpool.
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#7 Pegi

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Posted 11 September 2005 - 11:29 AM

Would need the complete model and serial numbers to see if this G.E. frig falls under the door replacement issue also.
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#8 Gee I hate GE

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Posted 11 September 2005 - 01:44 PM

What is the likelyhood it may be a temp sensor?  Do you know if the board uses the temp/evap sensor to determine when to kick into defrost?  This is a reletively inexpensive part, and could be replaced just to test the unit.  For that matter, I could probably test the temp/evap sensors myself with a meter, although there are no value range listed on my wiring diagram.

Gee I hate GE


#9 Pegi

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Posted 12 September 2005 - 05:00 AM

Yes the sensors fail, there may be 3 in your frig, change them all...however you said the defrost kicked in when you jumpered the board, however the thermisters can be erratic if they are going bad..still need your model and serial to see if your frig is in the moisture program...
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#10 Gee I hate GE

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Posted 12 September 2005 - 09:53 PM

Pegi,

Thanks again for the reply.  I have printed the GE bulletin, and my model/serial number does fall under those listed, MN: GSH25KGMBCC with SN: LA211739.

A repair guy who GE referred to me called today and left a message.  Of course, he said he would have to charge the service charge unless he determines my failure is related to the service bulletin. 

I do not believe my defrost problem would qualify, only the doors/sticking flap problem.  It just seems I should cut my losses and get the Kenmore or Whirlpool refrigerator.  The Kenmore I am looking at is a Whirlpool OEM.  I am leaning toward spending a little more for the Whirlpool brand (or Kirkland by Whirlpool sold at Costco), due to your dire words about Sears service.

Let me know what you think, as your input is greatly appreciated and will weigh on my decision.

Gee I hate GE


#11 Pegi

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Posted 13 September 2005 - 05:44 AM

You do seem to hve a bad control board since the defrost heater came on...if the doors are to be replaced under the moisture program will cost you nothing.  That said, I would not have your box.  I would replace it with a Whirlpool brand and be done with it...
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