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Kenmore Refrigerator - bottom of door collapsed?
#1
Posted 21 April 2005 - 05:38 PM
Do I need a whole new door? I can't help wondering if this was damage done during shipping or installation by Sears. I just don't know. The door is designed to hold gallon jugs and we don't even use it for that. That is, I don't believe
that we are putting more weight on the door than it was designed for.
What should I do?
#2
Posted 21 April 2005 - 05:47 PM
L2255525W (2255525W) $525.49.
Dandy. I paid $1550 for it 14 months ago.
#3
Posted 21 April 2005 - 05:52 PM
#4
Posted 21 April 2005 - 06:24 PM

Here is a picture of the good door.
#5
Posted 21 April 2005 - 06:28 PM
#6
Posted 21 April 2005 - 06:48 PM
May be more serious that I originally thought. Has the right side of the metal door stop gone up inside the fresh food door?
#7
Posted 22 April 2005 - 02:04 AM
Look at the picture, see that crack up the side? and only half the cam visible, the other half is up inside the door now.
If this was a Whirlpool branded product instead of a Whirlpool with the Kenmore name, Whirlpool would probably take care of that for you no charge but since you have to deal with Sears, GOOD LUCK. (I would be doing some major bitching to them if I where you, this shouldn't have broken like this unless you have an ape or very large kids swinging from the door)
If you end up fixing it, DON'T buy the part from Sears, save yourself about a $100.00 and order from RepairClinic CLICK HERE
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
#8
Posted 22 April 2005 - 05:37 AM
As an ex-Sears tech, I'd endorse Willie's advice - bitch early and bitch often;) You should be able to get them to make some kind of concession, probably they'll eat the cost of the part if you pay a labour charge (about $150).
#9
Posted 23 April 2005 - 09:20 AM
where the bottom plastic pushed in, there is only foam
inside the door. The bottom plastic panel only hold
the metal door up at the edges. And the hinge plate
presses right in the middle of the plastic panel.
It's not a great design.


#10
Posted 23 April 2005 - 09:23 AM
saves me the cost of a new door. I figured that the
problem was that the pressure was not distributed well.
So, I fabricated a plate to distribute the pressure.
It's a Rube Goldberg design but it works, nobody sees
it and it saved me a lot of money.

#11
Posted 23 April 2005 - 10:03 AM
And thanks for posting that. This thread is definitely one of the selected threads for anyone else's benefit. I'm sure this will be an emerging issue on this refrigerator.
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#12
Posted 24 April 2005 - 02:40 AM
Is that door bottom just made out of plastic????
Are Whirlpool products be designed like crap now too?
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
#13
Posted 24 April 2005 - 04:54 AM
with the cam and hinge plate removed, you can see that
beyond the plastic bottom is just insulating foam.
From what I can see, the plastic bottom only really
supports the door where the door metal sides meet the
plastic base at the edges. But, and here's the problem,
the plastic bottom is supported in its middle by the hinge
plate. This puts a lot of shear stress on the plastic
bottom.
On this refrigerator model, the door is designed to
hold four gallon-size milk jugs. I think this would
be roughly 32 pounds. Plus, there are two more
shelves. The door should be able to hold a good
bit of weight but that doesn't appear to be the case.
This ability to stowe milk jugs on the door was a selling
point when we purchased the refrigerator. Ironically,
we don't actually put milk jugs on our door but I'm
sure that other consumers do.
I'm still trying to think of ways this could have been
an installation problem. I don't think that is likely.
I could imagine an inept installer lifting up on the
door but I don't see any way why/how he would put
excessive downward force on the door. Plus, we never
noticed the door was lower than the other until very
recently. I have to believe this is a design
deficiency. Hopefully, my experience and quick fix
will help others as their refrigerators experience the
same problem.
The fabricated plate does make the door sit a wee bit
high but it is barely noticeable. I'm no machinist;
I'm sure others could fabricate a nicer plate than
mine. I made my plate by taking a piece of angle iron
(left over from my garage door installation), hammering
it flat and cutting it to fit with a hacksaw. I used
a drill to create holes where the screws go.
#14
Posted 24 April 2005 - 11:21 PM
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
#15
Guest_SearsDoor_*
Posted 29 April 2005 - 05:50 AM
#16
Posted 29 April 2005 - 08:31 AM
#17
Posted 30 April 2005 - 06:15 AM
Attached Files
#18
Posted 30 April 2005 - 12:35 PM
#19
Posted 30 April 2005 - 12:57 PM
#20
Guest_BoBBy_*
Posted 07 May 2005 - 05:47 PM
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