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GE Washer


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19 replies to this topic

#1 tspark01

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Posted 22 April 2005 - 02:45 AM

I have a 5 year old GE washer that has started clunking very loud and causing all the lights to dim everytime the clunk is heard.  During the Spin cycle the machine works fine.  The machine does agitate but not very hard.  I took the agitator off and looked at the bell coupler and everything looks intact with no signs of rust.  I also took the front cover off during the cycle and I see tiny sparks in the motor (which should be normal I woould think) the transmission will turn by hand and shows no sign of oil or water.  I have checked the pump out for debris and no luck.  I am thinking it is a motor or transmission issue.  the motor is a WH20X10009 .  Any suggestions?  I am waying the options of purchasing a new one or repairing this one.  Thanks

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 22 April 2005 - 03:40 AM

I've seen this before on a GE washer that had the abominable electronic control.  I don't know why manufacturers put electronic user controls on a wet appliance, talk about dumbass engineers!  Anyway, turns out the controller was bad. 

Regardless of what type of control you have, and I don't know because you didn't give a model number, you'll need to look at the voltage going to the motor when the motor is trying to run and starts pulsating.  If you see the voltage cycling from 120 to something very low, you know you have a bad controller.


#3 Mad Mac

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Posted 22 April 2005 - 05:42 AM

Sounds like power not getting to the motor run winding. I'd be looking for a bad connection at the motor or possibly a motor start switch problem. Like Samurai says, we need a model number for the whole machine.
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#4 tspark01

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Posted 23 April 2005 - 07:41 PM

Thanks for the replies thus far.  I have the model number below

WBSE2090A0WW model

Motor 1/2 hp 1725/1140RPM 115v 60hz 9.2/7.3A Vert Mount only

I have checked the power coming from the board and show no flux in power.  I have taken a look at the controls at the board level and I don' see and corrosion or burn outs that are obvious. 


#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 April 2005 - 11:05 AM

Well, if you're sure power to the motor is good n' steady, that leaves either a bad motor or a transmission that's binding in the agitate mode.  Remove the belt from the motor pulley and run the washer in agitate mode.  If you don't get the surging, chances are excellent that you have a bad transmission.

If it were me, I'd think real hard about dumping a chunk of change into a cheesy GE washer; faced with the repair prospects you are, I'd go shopping


#6 denrayr

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Posted 25 April 2005 - 04:43 PM

are you sure you are getting power to the run and start winding or did you just check for power. this is important to know.
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#7 tspark01

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Posted 25 April 2005 - 06:22 PM

I just checked power to the motor then I checked it across the pinouts from the control board adapter to the motor.  I am not sure exactly how to check the run and start winding you referred to.  I will try and run it without the drive belt and see what happens.  I think shopping is in the future.  Any recommendations on a good qaulity washer that has at least a 3.2 or larger capacity?  I know you get what you pay for but I hate to get the highest thing out there when it performs the same as some mid range washers. 

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 April 2005 - 06:43 PM

[user=325]tspark01[/user] wrote:

I am not sure exactly how to check the run and start winding you referred to.

Post your wiring diagram or fax it to me (775-416-7775) and we'll be able to tell you ezzzacly where to test.


#9 tspark01

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Posted 26 April 2005 - 07:01 PM

I have found the wirng diagram in the cabinet but I haven't been able to fax it over with working this third shift.  Anyhow today I did what one person suggested by removing the belt of the motor clutch that goes to the transmission and I ran the machine in a heavy wash setting.  When doing this the motor starts clicking with nothing on it.  I can watch the clutch spin and it slows up and slows down with the motor going up and down then clicking during this process.  I took a screw driver and placed against the clutch to kinda put the motor in a bind and it recreated the loud click and clank I have been listening too.  On the diagram I see where the star winding comes from on the control board.  Thanks for everyones help so far. 

#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 03:52 AM

Based on your test, this seems to clearly indicate you need a new motor/clutch assembly

Posted Image

If I were on the service call, I would measure to the motor's current draw with an ampmeter just to make sure. 

Does the motor pully spin freely?  Any binding?

I'd still like to see the wiring diagram if you can fax it.


#11 DrDuck

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 01:33 PM

I am having a similar problem.

Same good old GE diff model wlse3150a0ww

Motor seems like only working in one speed will not spin out with out causing a bunch of power surges then it shuts down (overheat??)

Took belt off ... same problem

Controller should hold voltage to moter during spin cycle but need to know what pinouts to check

Can you help ????

 

[user=325]tspark01[/user] wrote:

I have a 5 year old GE washer that has started clunking very loud and causing all the lights to dim everytime the clunk is heard.  During the Spin cycle the machine works fine.  The machine does agitate but not very hard.  I took the agitator off and looked at the bell coupler and everything looks intact with no signs of rust.  I also took the front cover off during the cycle and I see tiny sparks in the motor (which should be normal I woould think) the transmission will turn by hand and shows no sign of oil or water.  I have checked the pump out for debris and no luck.  I am thinking it is a motor or transmission issue.  the motor is a WH20X10009 .  Any suggestions?  I am waying the options of purchasing a new one or repairing this one.  Thanks



#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 02:16 PM

[user=440]DrDuck[/user] wrote:

Controller should hold voltage to moter during spin cycle but need to know what pinouts to check


Me, too. I keep asking for the wiring diagram (which you and tspark have) but not getting it. Post it here or fax it to me: 775-416-4449.

#13 DrDuck

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 03:24 PM

Ok,

Should have recieved fax.

 

Ran self test and unit will spin now but will not run a slow agitate

It will click on and off for a few times then overload switch kicks it out.

Fast agitate and spin work fine.... all are on a dry tub.

Going to fill tub and try again


#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 04:31 PM

Looking at the 6-pin connector on the control board:

Hi Speed:  Pin 2

Low Speed: Pin 3

Hi-Low Common: Pin 5

Start:  Pin 6

You could have figgered this out, too!  A wiring diagram is just a road map for electrons. 

When you run it on slow agitate, look at the voltage on Pin 3.  If it look good (120vac nominal) and steady, then the slow speed winding in the motor is probably leaking current to ground == new motor time.

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#15 DrDuck

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 04:54 PM

Yep, sure should have figured it out. Grasshopper thinking quite slow master.

When I ran voltage test on motor in slow agitate mode the pin held a steady 120V.

Assuming the motor has turned it's last oh great one, Should the clutch be replaced along with the motor or can it be done seperately ???


#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 04:57 PM

For just a few shekels more, it's much easier to replace the clutch and motor as complete assembly

#17 DrDuck

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Posted 27 April 2005 - 05:00 PM

Thanks for your help

Ever near MO

Let me know will buy you a cold one.

We live about 15 min from an Otterville MO

Thanks


#18 Lurker_PANDEBOYCE_*

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 07:17 PM

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM (AGITATOR NOT WORKING) - HERE IS HOW I FIXED IT.  THE AGITATOR DRIVE BELL HAD SOME SLACK BETWEEN IT AND THE BOLT WHICH HOLDS IT TO THE ?TRANSMISSION?  I PLACED A METAL AND RUBBER WASHER ONTHE BOLT.  THAT TIGHTENED UP THE DRIVE BELL SO THAT IT DID NOT SPIN FREELY AND IT WAS THEN ABLE TO BE COONTROLLED BY THE TRANSMISSION RATHER THAN SLIP LOOSELY AROUND ON IT.  iTS A RIG JOB, BUT IT ALL WORKS PERFECTLY NOW. 

#19 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 01:49 AM

Hey, Pandeboyce, post photos of your rig job.  You'll need to register to post attachments but it's free and well worth our time! 

#20 wartickler

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Posted 29 April 2006 - 12:54 PM

I am having this same problem. I am confused about one thing. You were saying to remove the belt and see if it still makes the noise. That would, of course, isolate the problem but it would seem that the motor itself is fine if it's spinning at all?

 

The difference is in the low- and high-speed operation? I have the silly electronic control panel model (inherited with the house.) Should I check that as well? I will need to get a multimeter, yes?

 

My model number is WBSE2090A.





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