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Sears Electric Dryer no heat to element


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12 replies to this topic

#1 ziljin

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Posted 13 September 2005 - 03:20 AM

Hi everyone,I'm trying real hard not to give up on this one!  I've checked all t-stats/thermals/element for cont.  all passed and all connections read 115v while dryer is running..  I'm getting 220 @ the wall.  Timer checked ok.  I took connectors off the element while running and got 115v on each conector.  I've run full cycles and the element doesn't heat @ all with my hand on the element while running.  Cleaned all lint out of the chute.  Plenty of air coming out the blower - same temp all the time.  Cannot see any burnt wires.  Should I be reading 115v or 120?  There is a burn on the legs of the power cord itself, but I'm reading 115v @ each terminal.  Any more ideas will be GREATLY appreciated!Sears Model# - 110.96512200Thanks in advance!Jeff

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#2 nickfixit

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Posted 13 September 2005 - 04:48 AM

Inspect the area where the cord attaces to the dryer, see if there are any charred wires. 
" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#3 ziljin

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Posted 13 September 2005 - 06:04 AM

Thanks for the prompt reply... Looks fine

#4 ziljin

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Posted 13 September 2005 - 07:05 AM

i meant the terminal/wires look fine...  Dryer still down :)

#5 ziljin

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Posted 13 September 2005 - 03:43 PM

Anymore help?  Sorry tfor being so persistant.

#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 September 2005 - 05:11 PM

[user=3387]ziljin[/user] wrote:

I took connectors off the element while running and got 115v on each conector.

If this is accurate, then this indicates a bad heating element. The confirming test is to measure the resistance of the heating element.



There is a burn on the legs of the power cord itself, but I'm reading 115v @ each terminal.

These burns can prevent current flow to the heating element. So, while you may indeed measure voltage there, the connections may be incapable of passing current due to the burns.

#7 ziljin

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Posted 13 September 2005 - 05:56 PM

I meant the terminals that slide on the elements posts.  I ran the dryer w/out them connected to the element and they each read 115v one is a red wire and the other is red/wht.  The only burn mark I can find is on one of the 3 prongs that go into the wall.  Is it worth replacing the cord? I'm ass-uming it could be a pretty cheap item.Thanks... BTW i'm in nashua....  uclose in case i give up :)

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 13 September 2005 - 06:36 PM

[user=3387]ziljin[/user] wrote:

I meant the terminals that slide on the elements posts.

Me too.

The only burn mark I can find is on one of the 3 prongs that go into the wall. Is it worth replacing the cord?


See Nick's instructions.

BTW i'm in nashua.... uclose in case i give up :)

Nyet, comrade. Much, much too far. I'm up in the Lake Sunapee area. However, I think you would benefit greatly from the Total Appliance Awareness Microchip Implant.

#9 exsearsguy

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Posted 13 September 2005 - 07:18 PM

ziljin, if you can, fire that puppy up with the connections on the element and see if you read 220v.If you have 220v, change the element ,if not then it's time to go hunting.

#10 ziljin

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Posted 20 September 2005 - 03:58 AM

Hi the dryer is hooked up to 240v....  I'm reading 119.3v/119v.  @ the element and @ the power terminals.  could the 1v make that much of a difference?

#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 20 September 2005 - 04:47 AM

In your first post, you said:

I'm getting 220 @ the wall. ... I took connectors off the element while running and got 115v on each conector.


Now you're saying:

The dryer is hooked up to 240v.... I'm reading 119.3v/119v. @ the element and @ the power terminals.


Has something changed?

#12 ziljin

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Posted 24 September 2005 - 05:29 AM

Hi no nothing has changed...  I wasn't thinking.  I'm getting 119 @ the terminals and 115 or 116 @ the element.  This is a new element, new pwr. cord.  all fuses have been cont. tested.  I'm pretty sure the timer is ok (got cont. on 2 wires in timer/heat mode.  I tried just jumping all fuse wires off each other w/ the same results.  Should I go for the motor switch?

#13 exsearsguy

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Posted 24 September 2005 - 11:18 AM

If you're getting that 119v where the power cord hooks to the dryer then you don't have 240v to your dryer. Check  your breaker or fusebox.




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