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LDF7810ST


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20 replies to this topic

#1 Sagen

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 02:58 PM

okay I have an LG ldf7810st.  I get the E1 error.  have checked everything and nothing is leaking.  I disassembled the center assembly to check the impeller and it's fine but the whole area was full of dirt.  I will mention the dishwasher stopped cleaning my dishes before I got the E1 error.  I have the service manual and ran all the tests.  The only ones that did not come up with the correct numbers was

1 x =31 but I got (00-236) Soil
4 x = 34 but I got (00) Inlet - but went up to 340 when closed and filling
9 x = 39 but I got (44 - 45) Temp

What do I do now to determine the issues?

What currently happens is it pumps everything out then it fills it up and 50% of the time it will run a cycle to the end and the other 50% it stops within 3 minutes.

I have checked everything for leaks and nothing is leaking.  Can it be the water meter?


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#2 john63

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Posted 08 July 2010 - 06:27 PM

This is most likely an "IE" error.

If your home uses *well water* with a high iron content (reddish color) this can foul the FLOAT ASSY. This part has a tiny Hall Sensor which monitors water flow during the fill portion of the cycle. The computer cannot determine that water is entering the d/w---even though it is. The iron deposits are corrupting the hall sensor data. Replace the FLOAT ASSY (located on the left side of the d/w after the side panel has been removed).

A drain hose that is installed *thru the floor* into a basement drain connection will cause siphoning of the wash water. Eventually--the wash motor begins to accelerate from lack of constant water suction--the computer senses this condition and displays an "IE" error. Relocate the drain hose to an undersink disposer or standard sink drain.

A failing WATER INLET VALVE can also trigger an "IE" error. If the valve is partially restricted from debris---a lower flowrat of fill water will trigger an "IE" error--the computer has called for water to fill within a specified time frame and the water failed to enter the tub within the time alotted. Replace the WATER VALVE.

Remove the front cover from the d/w door and thoroughly inspect the wire loom that runs from the bottom of the door to the computer. If your dishwasher has the "tar-like" insulation material---there's a possibility that at least one the wires has been pulled apart from becoming "stuck" in the tar coating (newer LG dishwashers have a cloth blanket material). Repair any broken wires and tape the entire wire loom with electrical tape. Then add a small section of cardboard between the wire loom and the d/w door to keep it off the sticky tar compound.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 Sagen

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 04:46 AM

Thanks for the quick reply and your help.  This has become a personal mission of mine now.  It's man against DW.

The error definitely is an E1 error.  I too thought at first that I reversed the digits but I definitely didn't.  Maybe the programmer did at LG.  Everything I have found though tells me it's an 1E error since I cannot find anything that shows me it's an E1 error.  That's why I'm stumped.

I will try all of your suggestions.  Do you have any idea about the test modes?  I cannot figure out if it's user error or the dishwasher on button pushes (1, 4, 9) 

I do not use well water and I have the drain hocked up to the top of the sink. 

I do have a white foam blanket and I also have the tar in the door (I believe it is 2006).  I have checked the front door and some wires were stuck in the tar.  I pulled them out of the tar but will inspect again and follow your recommendations.  I still had the error after I pulled them out but it did run a full cycle first (but it does that sometimes).  It however didn't clean anything.  I also removed the bottom panel and inspected the inlet valve but I will do it again.

It's this part correct?  1267810  I cannot figure our how to insert a picture.

Posted ImageWould this explain the dirty dishes too?  Even before the error code appeared?  I want to mention water is going into the tub and it's also draining.

Thanks again and I will let you know what I find.

file:///C:/Users/mia/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.pngPosted Image


#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 05:36 AM

E1   Leakage Error

The excessive RPM of Washing Motor happened during Wash cycle due to water leakage.

LDF7810ST Service Manual

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#5 john63

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 06:17 AM

The "EI" error is not a common error for erratic wash motor rpm (usually "IE" or "LE").

If the original SUMP ASSEMBLY (6871DD1002B) has never been replaced---the likelihood is very high that this is the problem. New SUMP ASSEMBLY is part number: AJH31248604

LG dishwashers built around mid-2008 had improved wash motors that eliminated the problems of:

POOR WASH RESULTS

NOISE DURING WASH CYCLE

"LE" ERROR

DETERGENT NOT FULLY DISSOLVED AT/NEAR THE DISPENSER  

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#6 Sagen

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 08:14 AM

Okay, I will order the new sump since this one has never been changed out and less noise sounds good to me anyway.  I'm also considering ordering the flow meter.  Since I will already have the DW torn apart.

I will let you know how it goes once I get the parts installed.

I do have one more question / concern.  In the front door panel it looks like there is some very minor leakage (over time) since there is stuff on the vent / blower connection.  Page 43 in the manual K124 (vent) to k110 (blower assembly).  Is this normal?  How can I seal it better?

Is there anything else that I should consider (for a DW this age) or a special part / tool for install I should have in my tool box?

Thanks again for all the help!


#7 john63

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 08:33 AM

No special tools required.

Open the d/w door.

Twist/turn the grey vent cap on the inside of the door counter-clockwise to remove.

NOTE: When re-installing this vent cap--the slots in the cap must be facing *upwards*.  Re-use the black o-ring type seal that is on the blower fan housing. No sealant necessary.

Disconnect the wiring from the blower fan housing and pull out the entire blower/fan assy.

Using a small screwdriver--pry the duct from the blower assy (use some degree of care not to break the plastic housing--it's not unusually fragile though).

Wipe clean crud from duct tube.

Apply silicone sealant to the duct tube and re-install.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 08:39 AM

John 63..the part # you posted for the "sump assembly" crosses to the "pump assembly" on Repair Clinic.


Pump assembly link

Posted Image

Sump assembly link

Posted Image

If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

One on one repair help now available !

http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/

http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501

http://www.facebook.com/ApplTech29501

www.eliteapplianceservice.org

#9 Sagen

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 08:57 AM

I'm on repair clinic as well.  I'm going to order this part:  New SUMP ASSEMBLY is part number: AJH31248604 which is item number 1472730. 

Do I have to order 1267106 too?  Isn't this part of 1472730?  Just checking.

I saw you said it crosses.  I'm just trying to understand, before I hit submit order.  :?


#10 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 09:17 AM

it appears that either his numbers were incorrect or Repair clinic is incorrect. i"m not personally familiar enough with these parts to tell you who right, but i would call Repair Clinic so you know your getting the item you need.
If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

One on one repair help now available !

http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/

http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501

http://www.facebook.com/ApplTech29501

www.eliteapplianceservice.org

#11 john63

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 11:21 AM

RepairClinic uses it's own alphaNumeric part numbering system which is confusing (to me anyway).

All of the LG dishwasher SUMP ASSEMBLIES for every single model number in the US-market---regardless of the LG sump part numbers---are interchangeable.

6871DD1002A

6871DD1002B

AJH31248601

AJH31248602

AJH31248603

AJH31248604 

Always use the latest part number shown. In most cases--this will have any/all revisions or corrections versus the previous part number.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 kdog

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 06:33 PM

Whoa now ! I've already been stung twice - removing the dishwasher and turning it over and replacing said sump, only to realize that the soil sensor had been relocated into the rear of the sump from the front - since i already had most of the job done, I went ahead and cut the sensor harness and extended the 4 wires (kinda tedious) to fit the new sump, but then I had another challenge to get the supply tube inside the tub to line up with the top of the pump housing - I vowed never to try that again, and in a future instance i got the same sump, but decided to reorder it - after talking with an LG rep regarding this, he assured me there are indeed differnt sumps depending on models
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#13 john63

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 07:27 PM

The TURBIDITY/SOIL SENSOR was relocated from the *rear* of the SUMP ASSEMBLY to the *front* of the sump assy. No traumatic event. Remove two strips of electrical black tape from the wire harness that secures the soil sensor plug harness & relocate to the different location. I fail to understand how this is causing proverbial sleeplessness & worry.

Re-install the WASH TOWER into the sump assy by inserting the lowest section of the "supply tube" into the *hole* at the rear of the sump assy (looking at it inside the tub from the front of the dishwasher). Always do this with the WASH TOWER upright and near the RIGHT REAR CORNER of the dishwasher. When in the "hole", twist over the to the left until it is *centered*.

Snap the WASH TOWER at the mid section to the diswasher *body" into their tabs until it *clicks* into postion. Repeat this with the top section of the wash tower. Add the lower locking plate with a single phillips screw.

Very Simple. No Training Video Needed to learn this service aspect.


Kdog

If you are unfamiliar with LG products---simply say so. I can respect that.

I have NO experience with:

 MIELE / Gaggenau / Liebherr / Asko (late models) / and other brands.

While I **do** have extensive experience with Samsung / Electrolux-Frigidaire / Speed Queen / Whirlpool / GE / Maytag / etc ---I am NOT privy to every brand's TECHNICAL PAPERS / BROCHURES / MANUALS / RECALL HISTORY / TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE CENTER or REGIONAL SERVICE MANAGERS----I do **NOT**

Waste other reader's time bashing/trashing/train-wrecking a brand or model of appliance simply because I'm unfamiliar with it.

I **do** marvel at what others "bring to the table" on this (and other) forums.

I **do** participate on this forum as much to *help* others as to LEARN things myself.

 

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#14 kdog

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 03:56 AM

Unfortunately, I become more familiar with the LG's all the time - they sell a pile of appliances as ther are lots of them around - for the most part, folks seem to be happy with them. The dishwasher sump I refer to was not quite as simple as just moving the sensor, the sump that I was replacing hsd the soil sensor hole in the front, and the replacement I was sent had the hole in the rear - short wire, long way to travel = extending wires to reach new location - obviously the issue is with the company I work for as when I actually spoke to an LG rep, he was able to provide me with the # for the correct sump, but I have had many such issues - same with door boot for washer, too many variations, when I go to do one now, I bring 4 different boots to assure I have the correct one. Had a PTC thermister fail on a fridge with an Embraco EGU-90 compressor, relay didn't show up on illustration - after much to-do I was sent with a new compressor to install and an explaination that the relay is not available on it's own. The compressor continues ro operate just fine with the Whirlpool relay that I matched up via eyeballs several months ago. I have no problems with their products, in fact some of them are damn nice - I just hate the fact that I may have to return 2 or 3 times to get the right part as is the case when I tried to get a tub to pump manifold for a washer recently - how many variations of one part can they make ?

 

And the issue I had reattaching the upper supply tower was that the outlet hole was not in the same location on the replacement sump and the components from the old sump could not be unterchanged due to location of mounting screws - I had to force it to fit, and I wasn't  completely happy with the way it ended up

Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#15 Sagen

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 04:44 AM

I ordered the parts.  It should be about two week before they show up but I am excited to get to work. 

I did order the one with the gasket.  I've had bad gasket experience in my life so I'm willing to spend the money.  Mine is also wrinkled or wavy.  Maybe this was part of the problem.

keep you posted.


#16 john63

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 07:32 AM

<<<The dishwasher sump I refer to was not quite as simple as just moving the sensor, the sump that I was replacing hsd the soil sensor hole in the front, and the replacement I was sent had the hole in the rear - short wire, long way to travel = extending wires to reach new location>>>

************************

You're right there--that would be difficult trying to install an older sump assy in a newer model LG dishwasher. These sump assys (6871DD1002B) are no longer in stock. This should never be an issue again during an install of the sump assy.

*************************

<<<I have had many such issues - same with door boot for washer, too many variations, when I go to do one now, I bring 4 different boots to assure I have the correct one.>>>

*************************

This is still a problem at LG Parts---and frustrating. I've found that calling LG to assure getting the correct door gasket---is pointless.

I improvised by stocking the door gasket for the model of LG washer that is most heavily-optioned (steam clean model).

For example:

On LG washer models...WM2016 / 2077 / 2233 / 2455 / 2487 / 2496 / 2688

Stocking the door gasket p/n: 4986ER0004G will permit a single service call repair if the gasket needs replacement.

Harbor Freight sells a SILICONE PLUG KIT which contains various sizes ( non-tapered ) of plugs that can be used to block off any unused holes in the gasket. The 4986ER0004G gasket has:

1) Drain hole at 6 O'clock position

2) Lightbulb hole at the 11 O'clock location

3 Dual recirculation holes at the 12 O'clock area of the gasket

To plug any unused hole--insert a silicone plug and secure it using a nylon wire tie (tight as possible).

This will prevent a hole from being gouged into the rubber gasket if a metal gear clamp is used.

This method of repair has been deemed more than acceptable by our LG training instructor.

****************************

<<<I just hate the fact that I may have to return 2 or 3 times to get the right part as is the case when I tried to get a tub to pump manifold for a washer recently - how many variations of one part can they make ?>>>

****************************

On the top of my head---about three different rubber drain boots. These are inexpensive and stocking all three is not a cost prohibitive issue.

****************************

<<<And the issue I had reattaching the upper supply tower was that the outlet hole was not in the same location on the replacement sump and the components from the old sump could not be unterchanged due to location of mounting screws - I had to force it to fit, and I wasn't  completely happy with the way it ended up>>>

****************************

I have never encountered a problem with this. 


*****************************

<<<Had a PTC thermister fail on a fridge with an Embraco EGU-90 compressor, relay didn't show up on illustration - after much to-do I was sent with a new compressor to install and an explaination that the relay is not available on it's own. The compressor continues ro operate just fine with the Whirlpool relay that I matched up via eyeballs several months ago.>>>

*****************************

I've had intermittent problems such as this over the years. This type of annoying parts look-up irregularities and lack of detailed information is largely resolved. It still pays to triple-check parts orders and inspecting them prior to the service visit---to verify that everything is correct.


 

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#17 john63

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 07:38 AM

<<<Mine is also wrinkled or wavy.  Maybe this was part of the problem.>>>

**************

No--but it is a considered by LG to be a "cosmetic issue".

New sump assys have a different gasket that is less wide (thinner at the leading edge) to prevent---what many consumers consider---an unsightly rippling or wavy edge to the gasket.

Good Luck.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#18 kdog

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 04:10 PM

As somebody who has to service all makes and brands, I don't wanna have to stock 3 or 4 of every little part that I might need, but would just be happy to be able to get the right one when I do need one - by keeping these parts lists and information secret from servicers - it's only natural that we kinda shudder going to a call on one of these, not really knowing what is awaiting us, or how many times we'll have to reorder the part. It's not that I don't like the product - I've recommended them to lots of folks, but I do warn them that when they need repair they might expect issues getting the right stuff.
I can even overlook the "easy bake" fridges, and the forever icing up ice bank fans as they are easy repairs for me. I just don't like the fact that LG sits on the information such as the console/ light covers/thermostats assemblies as I have to go through a dance every time I encounter one (unless it's easy-baked too long and the urethane foam is dripping into the crispers)
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#19 john63

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 05:15 PM

<<<As somebody who has to service all makes and brands, I don't wanna have to stock 3 or 4 of every little part that I might need, but would just be happy to be able to get the right one when I do need one>>>

************* 

To stock or not to stock---every appliance servicer's dilemma.

*************

 <<<by keeping these parts lists and information secret from servicers - it's only natural that we kinda shudder going to a call on one of these,>>>

*************

Welcome to the club.

I have *precisely* the same problem with GE, Bosch, Miele and others.

Lately--information has been forthcoming--usually from other terrific guys & gals on forums such as this.



To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#20 Sagen

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Posted 18 July 2010 - 05:14 AM

Hi, my parts came early and I installed them. 

I ran a full wash without any issues.  I replaced the sump / motor assembly and the flow meter assembly.  The gaskets did appear worn / expanded.  I cannot put it into words but the gaskets on the old sump assembly almost appeared to not be the right gaskets for the assembly.  The were so expanded I couldn't even get them to fit into the places they were supposed to fit, once I was taking the old assembly apart.  I'd like to figure out what was wrong.  Very strange.  The tubes were somewhat clogged with goop from the sump to the flow meter.  It honestly could have been cleaned out and reused but it was easier to just get a new one and I don't want to do this again.  My husband thought I was nuts when I started this.

Over all the new sump is much quieter as you stated and that alone is great.  Thanks for all your help.  I wouldn't have been able to do this without you.

I have one more question.  I have to buy a new dishwasher soon for my mother in law.  It has to be very quiet (located by her TV room) and reliable.  I've been reading about different brands.  I read that Bosch is quiet but has reliability issues.  Anyway, if you have a good recommendation I'm all ears. 

Thanks again





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