Jump to content


Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Maytag dishwasher repair


  • Please log in to reply
65 replies to this topic

#21 tmcleod

tmcleod

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 11 posts

Posted 29 October 2005 - 08:43 AM

99002580-1

Attached Files



Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#22 tmcleod

tmcleod

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 11 posts

Posted 29 October 2005 - 08:44 AM

99002580-2

Attached Files



#23 tmcleod

tmcleod

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 11 posts

Posted 29 October 2005 - 08:45 AM

99002580-2b

Attached Files



#24 tmcleod

tmcleod

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 11 posts

Posted 29 October 2005 - 08:51 AM

Did mention those pictures were borrowed from repairclinic.com? I hope they don't mind and I hope they help. If you need to order either of those parts, it certainly looks like repairclinic.com has them!

#25 Brian

Brian

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 03 November 2005 - 07:28 AM

Your solution works! Attach the latch assembly to the top of the open dishwasher as described. This pops the assembly open enough to attach the latch handle as you described. I had better luck putting the smaller tabs in first. This held the handle in place and let me use water pump pliers to squeeze the latch assembly. The larger hinge (tabs) went right in. Now that I know the trick, it's less than a 5-minute job. Too bad Maytag doesn't tell us how to do it. It would provide them with much happier DIY customers. I'm guessing that the metal pins stuck in the larger hinge (tabs) may be reinforcement for the plastic hinges.

#26 Trying to help

Trying to help

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,464 posts

Posted 03 November 2005 - 06:47 PM

Hint to make this easier to all the Techs in the field. Order in a actuator strike. The part that mounts to the top chassis of the unit. One, it allows you to spring the mechanism closed to make installing the handle easier, Two, it frees up your hands to do voltage checks and other things. Just slip it into the latch assembly when you either want to view the water fill (prior to motor kicking on of course) or have the door separated for other diagnostics. Since the actuator is held onto the unit with a screw, it has a pre drilled hole to slip right on to your key-chain. The plastic one off the original units fits that complete line and the newer stainless units. A dollar well spent!!! 
If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

#27 loram

loram

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 4 posts

Posted 13 November 2005 - 05:09 AM

Howdy all,

Just a few weeks later, I've discovered I'm a maytag issue veteran as well. I discovered this thing online, and your help looked promising. I got a new handle (i have the MDB8600AWW and I got part 99002597; i noticed some folks talking about part 2580?? i'm in canada... this is what they told me is the right part; anyway, it does look like the one the picture posted here).

For the life of me though... you guys must be super talented, cause I just cannot get this thing to go on. :(  it's unreal! :X 

I tried using channel locks like someone had suggested. It gets much closer for sure, but no cigar. I can manage to get the small inside tabs in place, but I can't seem to rotate it to get the big ones in place - they won't go past the outside edges of the plastic assembly. I assume this is the right position, because I can see the way the edges of both the latch handle and the assembly are tapered in this position, as though they want to meld together.

I'm doing all this with the assembly in place, with the door [pretending] to be closed (yes, with the power on... i know iknow.. already verified that ;)

ANY further help (pardon my density) would be appreciated. I have the door unscrewed open and the handle there - just tooooo close to call the repair guy.

If it would be easier to discuss on the phone, I'd be happy to call someone as well to discuss on my coin of course. Either call or further notes here would be super appreciated.

Thks,

Wanna-be-loney-maytag-guy :D with my problem solved


#28 tmcleod

tmcleod

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 11 posts

Posted 13 November 2005 - 05:51 AM

Loram, being at the point where it's so close to fitting you could scream but it won't go... is exactly where you want to be! The more I think about, it seems to me, I might have started with one of the large pegs, then the two smaller ones in the middle and then finally used pliers to squeeze the plastic edges of the assembly so I could force the second large peg into place. Then again, another respondent had luck with the inside ones first, then both outside. I guess however you can force it is worth a try. (Buying a second new latch if you break it is still cheaper than a repair guy. In this particular case, I mean -- no disrespect to the pros on this board.)
I'm in Canada, too, and can't remember if my parts numbers matched those, but the photos are exactly what they looked like anyway. By the way, if it makes you feel better? I "tested" the current to the door handle TWICE before realizing I should flip the breaker. Furthermore, my display panel now says my dishes are permanently "Clean" thanks to my mangling of the metals tabs that complete the circuit in the door. You know the ones I mean having now completed the circuit with your hand...

#29 loram

loram

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 4 posts

Posted 13 November 2005 - 03:16 PM

hi.

thks for your reply.

i felt a bit more motivated with your encouragement. i gave it a shot again - this time, turning off the power first.

try as i might. it seems impossible! rrrrrrrrrrrrr. i even took the latch assemply completely off the

door. that didn't seem to make it any easier. maybe i'm missing something.

did any of you actually cut the ends of the plastic knobs. (the ones spaced further apart) ?

i wondered if the point was to trim those a bit, then use the metal tabs, and push them in to

position in place of the plastic. (otherwise, what are they for?).

still not working... fretting at calling the maytag guy :(


#30 tmcleod

tmcleod

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 11 posts

Posted 13 November 2005 - 03:48 PM

Loram, you're just about there. I promise. You MUST take the latch assembly off the door to make this work. Not only would it make it easier, it's the ONLY way it will work.
Now ignore the door and place the assembly over the accuator/hooky thing fixed to the roof of the washer. Then follow the previous steps to squeeze the edges and force the tabs into place while the assembly is still ON the accuator.
When they finally go, you will be able to click the assembly on and off the accuator/hook thingy as though there was an imaginary door surrounding it. OK, you can screw it back onto the door now.
The latch's metal extensions are there to add strength the plastic knobs which, once again, don't seem like they'll go -- but will if you squeeze the assembly edges hard enough.

#31 Trying to help

Trying to help

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,464 posts

Posted 13 November 2005 - 03:53 PM

Or un install the unit an inch or two and remove the striker. It is held on by one 5/16 nut. After that, insert it into your latch. Now you can work with it in your hand. Once you insert the latch striker, it will expand the latch and open it up more..... Heck I'll mail you the one on my key-chain!! 
If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

#32 Lurker_Thankful_webizen_*

Lurker_Thankful_webizen_*
  • Lurking at the Threshold

Posted 18 November 2005 - 12:16 PM

:D  Thanks to all for the good advice.  The latch handle 99002579 evidently was redesigned -- the old one has just ABS plastic nubs, the new one has the steel pins on the sides, and implanted in the nubs I would guess, so the steel helps carry the load.   (Btw, my washer is a MDBTT59AWW.)

I followed the advice to latch the assembly in place.  I didn't have channel locks, but I had a pair of vice grips that opened up enough to squeeze the sides in and still lock.   I started with the left outer pin, then pushed until the inner pins got into their groove, then really applied steady force by hand to get that last right-hand outer pin to slide into place.   Whew!

I would never have known about getting the assembly in locked position, using a tool to sqeeze the latch mechanism, or had enough confidence that applying the force needed would not break the part -- had it not been for all your kind help.

Thanks again! :cool: 


#33 loram

loram

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 4 posts

Posted 21 November 2005 - 05:26 AM

Well, I gotta say a big thks to all you folks! ....finally, i did it!

I haven't had a chance to reply... a little busy with life stuff on this end, but wanted to follow up and say thks to all you folks. I finally did it, and once I had it in my head, it was a 30 sec job. I couldn't believe it (after the door is already disassembled that is). I learned a few things throughout though...

1. It's quite difficult to install the new latch with the assembly mounted in place on the dishwasher, because there's no support behind it. You push - it moves with you. It's imperative to take it off and do it on the counter.

2. power - turning off the breaker makes things a little less worriesome. As someone posted, you do risk damaging your dishwasher (and of course you too, but... ya know... :)

3. actuator - if you don't have an extra one... I took a pair of scissors, spread em, and emluated an actuator, and was able to get it to door closed position easily. Just pushed through where the actuator would normally go. This position makes it so easy to install the latch (as someone posted above).

4. channel locks - i was in rona one day and just bought these cause I thought they'd be good to have - what an investment. You can easily squeeze the thing thing atop the counter with these.

5. finally, so you have it squeezed together and the latch in the 'closed' position atop the counter. I found it very easy to put the two inner nips in the little slot, and then just take one hand and snap it down in place (other hand squeezing the channel locks). As per my eariler comment, having it sitting atop the counter gives you a nice firm surface to push against when popping the latch into place - no risk to snap something else off.

p.s. - i also bought a spare - i.e. - 2, when i bought the replacement part. For 6$, call me gun shy.

You guys are great! Thks so much for the info - this forum is super. Hope these comments help the next DIYer!

Cheers!


#34 jocko

jocko

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 05 January 2006 - 05:07 PM

Replaced the handle, but now I'm having trouble with the touch pad.  The left set of pads (heavy/normal/light wash) and right set (extra rinse, etc..) both work, but when I select a wash setting and push start or delay - nothing.  Is this related to a switch mechanism?



#35 loram

loram

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 4 posts

Posted 06 January 2006 - 12:06 PM

wow, jocko. that doesn't sound so good.

when you replaced the handle, did you first unplug your dishwasher or turn off the power to the breaker?

if it worked before, and doesn't work now, it sounds a lot like you may have shorted something during your repair and caused something to burn.

when you were doing it, did you at any time feel a shock? bbbbzzzzzzzzzzzz that sort of thing?

what you could do is (first turn the breaker power off), take yer door apart again.

 take the panel off. look for obvious signs of electrical damage - i.e. - scorches - brown marks on the white plastic, or an obvious damaged discrete component. you can take a multimetre and probe what's accessible and hopefully find something.

when you say you try to select, but nothing happens, have you actually pushed and tried the functionality?  i say this, because it may be the case that you accidentally just toasted the LED indicators lights, but not the functionality itself.

 


#36 tmcleod

tmcleod

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 11 posts

Posted 06 January 2006 - 12:30 PM

If you are "lucky," perhaps you simply forgot to reattach one of those conductors Loram and myself fried ourselves on. If the door doesn't know it is closed (because that circuit is not completing or something) would it make sense that the washer refuses to turn on?
Otherwise, no, it doesn't sound good. Sounds like you're getting into mysterious world electrical devices rather wrench and screwdriver territory.
As previously admitted, though, I'm far from a handy guy and that was just my guestimate on the inner workings of that panel.

#37 ericslaw

ericslaw

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 06 February 2006 - 05:14 PM

I just replaced the handle for the second time.
Found the part at repairclinic...
(first replacement came from maytag while under warrantee)
bought two... figuring that it will break yet again
(what a terrible design).

I am surprised (and have been given hope) when someone earlier said they had a part made of metal?!? Maybe next time.

I followed the large tab first directions and it worked fine... Had to use a little effort to snap on the big tabs..
then had to lift the handle a little to get the smaller tabs into place.

Works great, cept that the outer molding of the washer door is now cracked because we've been heaving on the broken handle for so long.

Any easy fixes for that?

#38 trytrytry

trytrytry

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 10 February 2006 - 08:38 AM

I just replace my handle. Tried to follow the procedures outlined by others and found that if I did as Loram indicated, namely not to try putting the handle on while it is on the actuator, but rather trigger the mechanism to get it to a closed position, then working on a table and using a c-clamp to squeeze the sides together, I was able to push the handle on with moderate force.

Thanks everyone for the help!!!

#39 Tony8512

Tony8512

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 19 February 2006 - 05:01 PM

:dude:

Hi there I to found it easier to put the handle with the small nibbs in first then the two larger nibbs second.

I used a pair of vice grips to squueze the sides of the T assembly. Vise gribs are the best tool in my opinon because they lock into place freeing your hands for pushing in the large nibbs.

Also don't be to afraid to squeeze the T assembly with alittle force with the vise gribs as this is the key to installing the handle.


#40 elmunc

elmunc

    Unsui

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 26 February 2006 - 10:10 AM

Just replaced the latch handle on my Maytag ... NEVER could have done it without these instructions!!!!!! (To wit: I had already spent over an hour on the project before finding the instructions; afterwards, it took 10 minutes!)

Thank you thank you thank you thank you!!!!

:D:D:D




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics