Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Fisher Paykel GWL11 washer


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#1 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 14 September 2005 - 06:48 PM

Can someone help me figure out how to fix problem on GWL11 washer that won't drain & spin?  It's only 6 months old.  This happened 3 months ago but hubby fixed by unclogging little rubber pieces that were around pump area (I'd washed a rug and the backing fell apart).  We thought this time it was a clog problem again and he tipped it and no clogging.

Any suggestions?  Is there a series of post somewhere that address a similar problem?  Hunting through the hundred of posts, page after page on forum seemed daunting.  Is there a faster way to search forum?

I tried the search feature at fixitnow.com and found 2 articles, neither that gave step by step ideas on this (one said that pump sometimes fail which could be problem --but we want to check out other possibilities before going that route).

I seemed to have misplaced manual after our last repair so am dependent on what I can find on the web.  Help!!!


Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 Moostafa

Moostafa

    Imam

  • The Ayatollah of Appliantology
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 771 posts
  • Location: non-US or Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Poppy Salmagundi

Posted 15 September 2005 - 01:19 AM

Hello, my misplaced friend. A cursory review of the "selected" topics uncovered this thread which seems to pertain to your problem.

Allahu Akbar!


#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,185 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 15 September 2005 - 02:08 AM

Hey, Alaska, I re-indexed the search database for the forum. To search the forum, use the search box at the very top of the page, just to right of my banner. If you use the search term "fisher," for example, you get this page.

#4 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 15 September 2005 - 09:53 AM

And I stayed up until after midnight (Alaska's timezone) reading through page after page of posts because I didn't know that search feature at the top pertained just to this forum!!!  Did learn a lot though reading--including how to find tech sheet and run diagnostic test.  Got 37 pump blocked error. 

Clothes are piling up (have teenagers!) and wet ones took out yesterday are starting to stink!!!!! Appreciate your help.  Hubby and I are home for rest of morning and into afternoon to tackle this, so keep the help coming!


#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,185 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 15 September 2005 - 09:57 AM

Ok, well, read through those three pages of help I linked you to above and lemme know if still have any questions.

#6 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 15 September 2005 - 10:02 AM

Since we got diagnositc code 37 pumb blocked error, we already started checking on that.  Machine is now tipped on front, hubby took off pump.  A little bit of wet lint & dirt (thimble-full, not much) was where it hooks in.  Propellor-thingy at bottom of pump was a bit tight and he spun it around a few time to loosen it.  Is now a little loose but not super loose.

He is pulling out diverter valve because you sent a thread that mentioned that.   Is this a good idea or is there a chance that what we've already done may be enough???  He just assume check because our little laundry hall is so tiny and there's no room to tip machine--so he pulled unit into another room.  He wants to check whatever he can before hauling machine back and hooking it up.

YOU GUYS ARE TERRIFIC by the way.  Way out here in the boonies where it would be pain to find someone who knew how to repair a F&P........


#7 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 15 September 2005 - 10:31 AM

Yes, SAR Man, still have questions.  See my post about what we've done.  We're about to haul it back into laundry hall and hook her up and give it a test run, but if you think we definitely need to replace the diverter valve, stop us if you can before our hauling/hooking---and also let us know where we get this part for GWL 11.

#8 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 15 September 2005 - 10:42 AM

Okay, no reply yet so we went ahead and hooked her up.  Ran a diagnostic test again and still got 37.  Decided to start a small load to see what machine would do.  It started to fill for about 5-10 seconds and stopped.  Could still hear hum of a motor and see basket turning but no water coming in.

HELP OH WISE ONES!


#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,185 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 15 September 2005 - 11:36 AM

I think you need a new pump.

#10 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 15 September 2005 - 01:34 PM

Bummer.  We left to pick up a diverter valve (found a repair place about 30 minutes from here that had one in stock for $25 much to our surprise) along with a few other errands.  Back home and found your message.  Think we're going to try the diverter valve first ???? even though the pump may end up being problem???  Is it stupid to try the diverter valve or should we take it back to get a refund??? Hubby's frustration level is rising.  Are there any valves available for diverting spouse frustration to the moon or somewhere?!

Back to my question: try the diverter valve or not or just get a new pump (they have one in stock for $57---oh that we had your great mind so we would have known to buy it while we were there earlier)?


#11 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 15 September 2005 - 02:08 PM

Spouse is impatient so went ahead without waiting for your response and tried new diverter valve.  Water ran a little longer this time but still came to a halt after maybe 20 seconds while basket turned and motor hummed.

Going to get pump.


#12 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 15 September 2005 - 04:41 PM

Back with pump and it's installed and still the same problems much to our dismay.  Still same diagnostic code of 37 showing up. :yikes:

We've installed both a new diverter valve as suggested and a new pump.  Still same problems.

When we start a load, just as it did before we installed the new diverter valve and new pump, it fills briefly, the water shuts off , baskets keeps turning gently and the motor hums and nothing more. 

Please help---are we dealing with some electric problem??  If we are and you give us advice on how to check that, please explain in very simple layman terms.  We're okay pulling off an old part and putting a new one on, but know nothing about electrical stuff and wiring and all that.

Our laundry pile groweth and stinketh :shock: in the fresh unspoiled land of Alaska.


#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,185 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 16 September 2005 - 04:29 AM

Check to see of the pump wires are actually getting 120v from the control board. You can do this at the control board itself so you don't have to tip the washer over. If you are, then that can only mean one of the following:

- drain hose is kinked

- suction hose to the pump is blocked. check by removing the pump and feeling all the way through the suction hose.


There could also be a loose pump harness connection at the control board.

If, on the other hand, you are NOT getting 120v to the pump, then you need to replace the control module. The pump and diverter valve are the only high voltage components on this washer-- one of them took out the control module. I'm suspecting that when your pump went, it took out the control module with it. Not uncommon.

#14 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 16 September 2005 - 10:53 AM

We don't have a meter-thingy to check the voltage.  We do know the drain hose isn't kinked and we could blow through it fine.  Not sure what the suction hose to the pump is but when we replaced the pump, we cleaned out wet lint/sand where it is connected.  My husband is totally fed up and is not wanting to unhook and drag machine out into other room so we can check the suction hose you're talking about.

I took off front cover of control panel to see if I could see anything loose or corroded which I didn't.  I went along and sort of pushed all the connections to make sure they were tight.  I think I MAY HAVE REALLY SCREWED UP THOUGH because I decided to unplug and re-plug the connection in to the front panel (just to make sure it was nice and snug).  I had no problem getting it unplugged but I can't get it plugged back in right  I get it under the the board thingy, with the clear plastic tab down but it's not getting all the way back under there and re-connecting.  When I plug machine into the wall, nothing lights up and I hear just a few quick beeps.

Does it sound like the control module or should we pull out machine again and check the suction hose to the pump for clogs?  If it's the control module, do you know about how expensive that might be?  And is that something we can install ourselves or should we break down and hire a repairman?

I continue to be SO thankful for your great help.

Shelley in Alaska


#15 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,185 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 16 September 2005 - 11:11 AM

Without a meter, you're flying blind. They're inexpensive, lots of other uses, and easy to use. Check it out, yo.

#16 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 16 September 2005 - 11:34 AM

If we were to get a multimeter (and restore our vision in the process) and it turned out that the control module needs replacing, is that something we could do ourselves or would we be hiring a repairman to install it? Might need the $20 we'd be spending on the meter to go toward paying the repairman.

#17 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,185 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 16 September 2005 - 11:38 AM

The control modules are very easy (for most people) to replace-- plug n' play.

#18 ethicalfix

ethicalfix

    Sōhei

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 154 posts

Posted 18 September 2005 - 07:48 PM

OK Alaska lets run through a couple of simple tests you can do.

First up if you can turn the machine on and it lights up the pump is most likely ok as it forms part of the power supply on this machine. First thing to do is turn the machine on and advance it to the spin cycle and see if it will spin. It should pump and spin but will take a few seconds before it starts to rotate.

If you have fitted a new pump and it does not go then you most likely have a controller problem .This is assuming all the harness plugs are correctly connected.

Another test you can try is to set the machine to a "traditional wash" in the options. This will then let the machine do a deep wash rather than the intuiative wash where it does not fill as much. It also eliminates all the functions related to an eco wash where the bowl rotates and nothing else happens for a while before it starts to recirculate the water . Can be very confusing if you are not sure if it is meant to be doing what it is or not.

If the machine stops during the fill cycle and faults to 37 then again it would appear you have a controller problem.

see how you go and I will keep an eye out for your reply.

 

Remember the simple things.

#19 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 19 September 2005 - 09:12 AM

Thank you, ethicalfix,  for all your wise suggestions.  If you look at my last post on Friday, Sep 16, you'll see that in all our dealings, we ended up to the point where we can't get anything to light up so we couldn't follow through on your tests.  Before, however, we got to that point, we had done some of what you suggested and, like you proposed, came to the conclusion that it's a controller problem.  We hope to get one picked up later today (hopefully they're in stock locally) and we'll let you know how it goes.

#20 alaskahughes

alaskahughes

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 12 posts

Posted 26 September 2005 - 10:09 AM

I was so busy catching up on loads & loads of laundry (YES, IT'S WORKING!) all of last week that I forgot to post and let all the inquiring minds out there know that the problem did end up being the controller board.  'Tis working like a dream now.......

THANK YOU all you helpful experts out there for walking us through all of this a step at a time!

Lesson learned from all of this though--and a tough one when we realize what we spent on parts: Because the machine was under 1 year old, it was covered bumper to bumper parts & labor.  We could have just called a repairman (which we did learn later that there was one certified much to our surprise in our area in Alaska).  We live and learn.........but hopefully this advice will help someone else whose machine is less than a year old.

 





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics