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textech

KENMORE WASHER 417 44052401

44 posts in this topic

Tinker in Texas tackles washer... 

!st question?  Are the numbers beyond the 417 merely a serial number accompanying the model number?  I've seen lots of numbers close, but none that match my washers set of numbers...

As in many of the questions I've seen- the washer doesn't seem to completely drain and definitely doesn't spin cycle... 

To this point I've made sure the drain lines are clear, which definitely needed to be done, removed a few bobbie pins, and assorted "grawdeau" from the front gasket.  No change in performance.

I'm about an hour from tearing into the bottom cover and the tech manual, but most of the research to this point has centered around the motor, the pump, and now the locking wax door switch.  Saw to do the visual at connections for loose or burnt connections.  Nothing glaring as far as visual, burnt smell & tub turns easily by hand.   

School's about to start- 4 teenagers count on this dang thing, as well as their Mom.

I do have a volt/ohm meter - but would rate as a weekend warrior at best.  With the encouragement of the site- I'm going in... 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

The 417 means it was built by Frigidaire. If its not draining proper then you need to start with the pump. Check the discharge coming out of the drain hose (should be a strong full flow) not a "flacid girly~man trickle" gotta thank Sami for that one ;)

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Bless your heart because all it had was a weak stream when draining.  With 4 teen-agers the pump might very well be the 1st place to start.  Would it being clogged prevent it from spinning?

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Yes, remove the pump and clean it out...if it isn't clogged it may need to be replaced. Keep in mind a lot of water will come out wgen you remove the hoses...just be prepared. Post back and let us know what you find.

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Found .72 in the bottom of the pump. That & an awful lot of goop from years of never having been looked at... Washed it all out- got the clamps all back on- think if I have to get back in there I might change the large spring clamps to regular hose clamps. Started a load and pretty much immediately noticed a leak at the top of the rubber sleeve that goes over the opening from the tub itself. There is a ring clamp on it- I must not have gotten it all the way over the mouth of the plastic downspout. I pulled the power & reset the rubber sleeve all the way to the top of the downspout. May have been afraid to tighten it too tightly since it's all plastic... Now awaiting rinse cycle.

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let us know

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Still nothing even resembling a spin cycle. Cleaned out the pump. Have the tech sheet, but no way to execute error code on this model. It's not one of the better or good models. Have it disconnected and the back panel off- the dang thing is spotless! Not a clue how to get inside the large square in the back right corner that has all the wires going into it and start searching for the speed control board.

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On the right track though... Hand bleeding!

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Is it pumping out completely now? No pumpy, no spinny.

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Got the entire plastic box removed containing the board. Guess I'll take it somewhere to get it tested?

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[user=69355]textech[/user] wrote:

.. no way to execute error code on this model. It's not one of the better or good models. ...

If it's not the Better Model, then it is the Good Model ..

417.44052401

Owner Guide 

134566000een

Wiring Diagram:  

134542000

Installation Instructions:  

134594700es

Parts Manual:  

5995448122

Service Manual:  

134510500esf

Tech Data:  

1345420

Operating Instructions:  

134437000es

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pump feels like it's doing it's thing. Still not exactly a huge drain flow- but hose goes slightly up hill to get to drain and supply feeds from wall.

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is it a full flow of water? should look like a water hose, not a flacid girly-man trickle ;)

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Still nearly as much as much as a garden hose- but not sure what all phase it's in because it won't spin at all! Have the board yanked now and out of the plastic housing in resides in. Am going to see if I can hunt one down in the morning. I'm not a tech, but certainly not a fan of the front loaders!

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At this point you don't know if that board is bad or not.Depending on where you get the board it's $160 and up.

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True... But the real issue is the thing wouldn't spin. There's no standing water in the tub- clothes are wet. Have heard a door latch might also be the culprit... Did do an awful lot of cleaning today however.

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Comes to what ought to be the spin cycle and makes some noise,but doesn't spin. Tried to see if the door staying closed after it's unplugged- and it does NOT. Opens right away. Also tried to set the dial to rinse and spin only and it won't spin in that mode either. Same for going through the levels of spin. All lights working on front panel. Realize I've spent a ton of time on it- but am off work a couple days. Have learned a lot along the way as well.

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 a sluggish pump would stop it from spinning and is one of the most common problems for your complaint. Now that we know your pump is working properly we can move forward.when you  turn the machine on do you hear the door lock engage?

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It locks. As far as an "engage" sound- heck I guess? It does make a thud that I'd equate to it engaging.

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And as far as the pump working- after I got it all put back together I could feel it shaking and water passing through the rubber covering the hoses clamp to. Still not garden hose out of to the drain at the water supply, but I'm thinking it's due to the rest of the water not being spun out of the clothes. Have I made you wish you weren't so kind as to volunteer your expertise yet?

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No, not at all..i'm glad to help. I assure you in the past 20 years of doing this I have had far more challenges :).

If you will go back several posts and click on the service manual link

that Master [user=3641]RegUS_PatOff  [/user]

so graciously provided and read through the trouble shooting segments to get familiar with the voltage test you will need to perform for this particular problem (no spin)

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The service manual appears to be for ERROR lights. I don't get any on this model... All the checking voltage on pin # so & so is probably stretches my troubleshooting ability. Do have the meter, but stick to the checking continuity through fuses, and dual posted lamps. I'm a cameraman/lighting guy by trade.

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The parts manual is dead nails though. There is a substitute board now for my model.

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If you dont want to venture into the voltage checks I can respect that. The board is a common failure part. If you purchase it from this link you can return it if it doesn't straighten out your problem.

Control Board Link

00305338.jpg

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Am sure you're right- but since I have the thing out of the plastic housing- would it be worth my time to take it to someone and have them troubleshoot it for me? Or is that even done? All the help has been through the roof kind... My meter is pretty big- more of an automotive type, but in order to do all that I'd have to hook it all back up & plug it in, would I not? Any failure would result in replacing the entire board, won't it? There's no corrosion on any of the connections- the entire of the guts of the thing are really clean. I do have some contact cleaner, etc...

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