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Whirlpool Duet Sport Front-Loading Washer Model WFW8300SW04


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22 replies to this topic

#1 nospin

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Posted 15 August 2010 - 05:06 PM

My basement flooded with 4 feet of water during a flash flood and my 14 month old Whirlpool Duet Sport Front-Loading Washer  (WFW8300SW04)  was under water to about the middle of the machine.  After the water receded from the basement, there was water left in the drum.  I removed the water from the drum with a shop-vac and also opened the drain pump filter to drain any water remaining. 

After letting the machine dry out for several days, I plugged it back in and tried to get it working.  When beginning the cycle, it locks the door, but does not begin the cycle of filling with water and spinning.  It does do some clicking, but I'm not sure from where.

After running the Service Histroy Mode, the code of F24 displays.  It seems to then run throught the diagnostic test, but nothing displays.  I took the back off the machine and checked the Temperature Sensor to make sure the conection was not loose and took a general peek at the Motor Control Unit, but nothing seems loose. 

Is there a way to test the Motor Control Unit, Drain Pump, etc?  If so, what would be the best approach at troubleshooting?   Thank you :)

 


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#2 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 15 August 2010 - 05:50 PM

so you have no display at all? no beeps, no lights?
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#3 nospin

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 03:04 AM

Did you mean after the diagnostic has run?  If so, just a zero flashes quickly and then the display area is blank (the same display area that had the F24 code). Then it seems the diagnostic finishes and no lights are displayed on the panel.  I didn't hear any beeps. Just clicks as the machine went through the diagnostic phase.

Gererally:

The machine turns on and diplays are normal, you can select wash cycle, water temp, and press start, the door locks, then there are clicks, but the machine does not start to fill with water and spin as it would normally.  The "add garment" light stays lit, but the machine does not begin it's cycle.  Also, the red light under the pause botton is lit.  I end up pushing the pause button to shut the machine down.

I hope this helps.  Thank you!

 

 

 

 

 

 


#4 nospin

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 03:25 AM

Sorry, I was thinking about the beeps.  When pushing the buttons they do make their normal beeping sound.  I hear no beeping that does not seem normal.

#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 04:55 AM

Disconnect the blue harness from the motor control board and start the machine. If the machine acts like it is going to run (but it won't because the plug is disconnected) then the MCU will need to be replaced.

#6 nospin

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 10:34 AM

I will try that and let you know.  Thanks again!

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 11:10 AM

Also see this post:

http://fixitnow.com/...ntrol-unit-mcu/

#8 nospin

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 02:32 PM

You're information was very helpful.  But I am sad :( I tried to remove the plastic connector for the blue harness from the mcu and broke the plastic connector, so the 3 blue wires are flapping in the breeze.  Can this be fixed?

I tried to run the machine after disconnecting the blue harness from the mcu (and breaking the plastic connector).  I pressed the power botton, chose the quick wash cycle, and hit the start botton.  The door locked, but the water did not start to fill the drum and the drum did not begin to spin.  The "add a garment" light stays lit and the red light under the "pause/cancel" button stays lit.  There are clicking noises (no beaps or display codes) but nothing else.  I hit the "pause/cancel" button to shut the machine down.  The "add a garment" light stayed lit, so I just unplugged the machine.  The door stayed locked, so I used the lock release to unlock it. 

Have I made the problem worse?   Thank you, Eve

 


#9 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 04:05 PM

were you able to choose a setting previously before removing the MCU connector? (its not suppose to run with the cable unplugged, it was just a test to see if the machine would let your program it where it wouldn't previously)

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#10 nospin

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 04:40 PM

Yes, I was able to choose settings to program the washer prior to removing the connector from the mcu.    There was no change after removing the connector for the blue harness from the mcu.  The machine functioned the same way in both instances.

 May I borrow a sword to chop the washer to pieces? :D  Sorry, I'm just disappointed that I broke that plastic clip.  I guess I didn't pop the tab on the clip properly and when I pulled it, the plastic broke.

The red arrow below points to the clip that broke of the wires.

(Thanks for all the detailed instructions and pictures, there are very helpful!)

 

Posted Image


#11 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 05:03 PM

so the wires came out of the plastic connector or the connector locking tab broke?

Sounds like the MCU is good and the CCU is bad
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#12 nospin

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 05:09 PM

connector locking tab broke and fell off wires.  How do you check the ccu?

#13 nospin

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 11:56 AM

There's one picture of the MCU. There's a bit of corrosion, but nothing serious.

There are two pictures of the broken plastic clip from the blue harness that connects into the MCU. Can the plastic clip be fixed?

Thank you, Eve.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

#14 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 04:52 PM

probably gonna have to replace that harness. I dont think you can repair that.


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#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 05:07 PM

OR solder those (3) wires to the Board ...

if the Board ever goes bad ...

un-solder and re-solder those (3) wires ...

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#16 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 05:21 PM

[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

OR solder those (3) wires to the Board ...

if the Board ever goes bad ...

un-solder and re-solder those (3) wires ...
 

Yes that is an option and a pretty good one considering it will save you $50 and 2 more weeks of down time.

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#17 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 05:32 PM

Some soldering tips here:

http://fixitnow.com/...pliance-repair/

#18 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 02:11 AM

Looks to me like that could be put back together with a little superglue.....

The wires slide between the exposed metal prongs which slice thru the wire insulation to contact the inner wire.  You may need to pinch the prongs back together to hold the wires good and tight, the the white plastic retainer part, (if it actually broke off and didn't just snap out of place), can be super glued back into place.

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#19 nospin

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 02:58 AM

Can any blue wire be put in any spot of the plastic clip?  Or is there a specific order for the wires to be reconnected?  Thanks for all your help!  It's much appreciated!  Eve

#20 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 02:11 PM

That's a good question, I don't believe it matters since they are communication wires but i'm not absolutely sure. The wiring diagram doesn't specify an exact location  for each wires termination. On the CCU they are labeled 1 2 3 but it doesn't show that for the MCU. Maybe someone else has some insight.

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