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dnelms

Whirlpool Washer Making Clicking Noise

30 posts in this topic

Whirpool Washer Model # LSR8233JQ0

Last night while my wife was washing a load of clothes, a loud clicking noise all of a sudden appeared. I stopped the washer and could not figure out where it was coming from. I mover the control switch to spin and to try to get the water out and it did suck it out, but making that loud clicking noise again. Let it set overnight and once i started it, same noise.

What should i be looking at first? I know a loud clicking noise doesn't exactly help but it's the best I can describe.  Any starting points would be appreciated before I get into taking the cover off.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Start by checking out the drive block.  There's a discussion about this in here.

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Worked on dryers before with no problem (with lots of help from the folks around this forum). Does anyone have the link to taking the washer apart to get to these parts? I'd rather wait and see something or some guidlines before just strat unscrewing stuff.

Thanks

 

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At this stage of the investigation, just remove the agitator so you can check for metal filings underneath it.

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Could not find any metal filings. Spline looks as though it's not too worn. The wife just left with the digital camera. At this point if the cycle is on spin, should this spline be rotating? After I got the agitator out I turned it back on and the noise is definately under the tub. Sounds like a spinning noise and you can hear the pump sucking out some leftover water and then when you turn it off you hear what sounds like a clutch (or brake) activating and the noise stops.

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Get a how did your drive block compare with the picture of the good one in the other thread?

Remove the cabinet and pull the pump off the motor shaft.  Tie it off and run the washer this way to see if the noise changes.

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anyway to test it without putting the cabinet back in enough to hook up the lid safety switch?

 

 

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figured I could just put it back enough to test. So with the pump off the motor shaft, I still get the same noise. The drive block still has the sud nut on it and all I can see are the splines and the notches, nothing looks different than the pictures. If you think this may be the cause then I'll wait until my wife gets back and I'll send a pic.

 

Thanks

 

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Hello, my testy friend.  Here in my country we are very good at, how do you Ameedicans say, African engineering.  Yes, that's it, except for us it would be Afghani engineering.  Eh heh, I made a funny, you see?  Anyway, as part of our Afghani engineering on machinery, we frequently use jumper wires to make things run: stolen cars, anti-aircraft missles, camel prods... even washing machines.  Would you like to learn of this arcane Afghani engineering art?  Very well. 

Simply take an insulated wire with about one half of your Ameedican inches stripped off each end.  Insert each stripped end into the back of harness for the two end wires, not the middle green one, as this would cause many glorious fireworks.  The washer will then think the lid is closed and will run normally. 

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Here is the pic of the drive block. The brown stuff seems to be just grease or gunk. Can't feel or see any metal filings in it.

 

post-344-129045084729_thumb.jpg

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[user=344]dnelms[/user] wrote:

So with the pump off the motor shaft, I still get the same noise. The drive block still has the sud nut on it and all I can see are the splines and the notches, nothing looks different than the pictures. 

 

 

Did you look at the attached picture in that thread, too?  You can tell whether or not the drive is stripped without having to remove the inner basket.

Next step is to drop the tranny and get some eyeballs on the brake cam:

wpddwashbasketdrive.jpg?dc=4675515877463181674

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[user=344]dnelms[/user] wrote:

Here is the pic of the drive block.  

You posted this just before my last post.  Your drive block looks fine.  On to the brake cam!

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OK, here is a picture of the brake cam. What am I supposed to be looking for?

Thanks

post-344-129045084731_thumb.jpg

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Looks a little boogared up, but it's hard to tell from this angle.  Can you post another shot looking up at it from directly underneath?

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Wait, wait, wait.  Does it make the clicking noise in agitate and spin?  If so, then that's a bad drive coupler:

wpddwashcouplerwornout.jpg?dc=4675399381859326190

 

Slam dunk!

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We have a winner!! Looks like the cemter part is fine, no wear. But the part with the pins is completely broken into.

Would you suggest buying the middle part also even though it doesn't look worn?

post-344-129045084733_thumb.jpg

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Comes as a set, two plastic pieces plus the rubber bit. You've got it apart, that's the hard bit.

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Ok, since I dropped the tranny and have found the problem, I'm gonna put the tranny back on. Here's where I'm running into the problem. Lineup is fine, but it won;'t go up far enough to start the bolts, but seems to be hitting the spring near the brake cam. Is there any secret to getting this back on??

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Did you remove the brake and drive tube or did you just drop the transmission?

If you just dropped the tranny, then just make sure the brake cam driver on the bottom of the brake and drive tube isn't hitting the clutch spring on the gearcase.  You may have to turn the drive to clear the spring. 

Also, be sure the spin tube thrust washer is on top of the clutch.  The tab must be facing down and in the slot of the slot on the ring.

Very carefully push, lining up the holes in the gearcase with the slots in the tub support.  Then replace the three bolts through the gearcase and use your socket wrench to tighten the bolts into the tub support.

You can buy the direct drive coupler here.

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Yes, I just dropped the tranny. Looking at this picture, should the gold cap(?) cover the yellow spring? I'm still not getting it too go up enough.

post-344-129045084735_thumb.jpg

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continuing... this is the closest I can get the transmission up to the posts. The spring inside the gold cap on top of the tranny, is not hitting the white brake cam. I made sure that they missed. What have I done wrong?

post-344-129045084736_thumb.jpg

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Hello, my continuing friend.  Have you oriented the motor mounting plate so that it is facing the front of the washer? 

It may also help if you orient the washer so that the front is facing east, toward Mecca.  But this is just the opinion of an old Mujahideen warrior who spends his days adrift in the glow of the poppy plant while milking his male yaks.

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Your turning an easy job into something difficult. You can't get the transmission to go back up all the way because the basket has dropped down when you released the brake after removing the transmission.

With the machine leaned back against a wall turn the brake cam to release the brake and push the brake/basket drive tube assembly back up all the way into the brake drum. You may need someone to help, while you release the brake have them lift the spin basket up as high as it will go then let go of the brake release cam. With the brake locked the brake/basket drive tube will hold the spin basket up where it belongs and the transmission will install as easy as pie.

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Willie... I can't afford to break anything else on this machine, so I want to double check. If the back of the machine is on the leaning on the wall, which direction would I turn the brake cam? Should it give me much resistance (assuming it will)? Having someone lift the spin basket, they would have to be pulling in up from within the tub area, correct? I know to a professional such as yourself, these sound like rountine things, but to a amateur like me I wanna be sure before I do something I'm not supposed to.

Thanks for the help.

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got the tranny back on... thanks Willie, that did the trick. Once the drive coupler parts get here it should go easy.

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