29 replies to this topic

[dnelms]

continuing... this is the closest I can get the transmission up to the posts. The spring inside the gold cap on top of the tranny, is not hitting the white brake cam. I made sure that they missed. What have I done wrong?

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[Moostafa]

Hello, my continuing friend.  Have you oriented the motor mounting plate so that it is facing the front of the washer? 

It may also help if you orient the washer so that the front is facing east, toward Mecca.  But this is just the opinion of an old Mujahideen warrior who spends his days adrift in the glow of the poppy plant while milking his male yaks.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Your turning an easy job into something difficult. You can't get the transmission to go back up all the way because the basket has dropped down when you released the brake after removing the transmission.

With the machine leaned back against a wall turn the brake cam to release the brake and push the brake/basket drive tube assembly back up all the way into the brake drum. You may need someone to help, while you release the brake have them lift the spin basket up as high as it will go then let go of the brake release cam. With the brake locked the brake/basket drive tube will hold the spin basket up where it belongs and the transmission will install as easy as pie.

[dnelms]

Willie... I can't afford to break anything else on this machine, so I want to double check. If the back of the machine is on the leaning on the wall, which direction would I turn the brake cam? Should it give me much resistance (assuming it will)? Having someone lift the spin basket, they would have to be pulling in up from within the tub area, correct? I know to a professional such as yourself, these sound like rountine things, but to a amateur like me I wanna be sure before I do something I'm not supposed to.

Thanks for the help.

[dnelms]

got the tranny back on... thanks Willie, that did the trick. Once the drive coupler parts get here it should go easy.

[dnelms]

Want to thank everyone for the help. Part cost me $11.50 here locally and it works great now. Your time and explanations made it easy (considering I know how to use tolls, but did not have aclue what I was looking at).

[hrdryder]

Slightly new, related topic:

Our machine (22722100) has developed a tick during the agitate cycle.  I've taken the cabinet open, and the sound is coming from the motor itself.  There is a centrifigal switch assembly inside the motor that appears to rotate 20-30 degrees on the motor shaft and seems to be the source of the noise.  With the motor removed and running on the ground (no load), the motor runs very briefly, every few seconds.

Is it normal for this switch to rotate like this?

Dave

[hrdryder]

Additional info to preceding post-

I've noticed that the cycle select switch doesn't seem to make much difference, 'normal', 'gentle', or 'delicate' all seem to agitate the same.  Also, I notice the lights on the same circuit pulse in time to the agitation, like the motor is drawing excessive current, or causing power surge.

Anyone else have info or experience with this?

 

Dave

[Mad Mac]

This is an old favourite - what's happening is that the motor isn't getting any power to its 'run' winding. As this happens on all speeds, I'd recommend you check the neutral (white) wire connection to the motor.

[steveg_nh]

I know this thread is old now, but this was a big BINGO for me too. Our machine (Kenmore 110.26912691 model number) was spinning, when all of a sudden we smelled burning rubber, and it starting clicking and clacking. No spinning. No agitator movement either.

I pulled the shell, and then the motor, and found the outer plastic part of the coupler split in two.

Literally, 10 minutes from start of job to removal, and hopefully 10 on the way back together. Just need to get the part now.

Thanks for the great pointers and pics. Well worth the $5 subscription fee!