Jump to content



Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


To get started, click here.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Kenmore 106.73182302, 106.73192302


  • Please log in to reply
57 replies to this topic

#1 J.C. Beat

J.C. Beat

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 02:49 AM

Purchased about 7 years ago.

Her is compressor info

Embraco EMY 60 Her R134A

H03uR980

513308529

 
Here are the resistance readings on the compressor pins with the pins facing you.

Bottom right to bottom left 10

Bottom right to top 2

Bottom left to top 8

Also tested any pin to groung and got infinite.

Is the compressor ok ?

Coincidently, I think the fridge malfunction began yesterday after we had a nasty storm with lightning with electric power going off and on (power surges) - could this have damaged any of the computer boards or something else that caused the problem ?

 

Thank You

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 vee8power

vee8power

    Kohai

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 423 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Folgers

Posted 21 August 2010 - 05:10 AM

Did you read the refrigerator troubleshooting flow chart at the top of the kitchen appliance page? Look there. Does the evaporator fan in the freezer run and the condenser fan by the compressor run? If so then the overload and/or relay is your problem, they probably rattle when you shake 'em. Those are the parts attached to those three pins you ohmed out. Check for voltage on the two wires to those parts. If there's 120 volts there, then there's your problem. If not, then there's more looking to do like the cold control and defrost control.


#3 J.C. Beat

J.C. Beat

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 08:06 AM

The fan next to the compressor runs. Did not check the  other fan  yet - I assume its in the freezer.

The "overload" does not rattle and I dont know how to check it. Can you tell me how.

The start relay does rattle but only when shake up and down. But I checked it using the procedure explained at  http://www.ehow.com/...ssor-relay.html and based on that test I think its OK.  (No prong is labelled L but the prongs labelled 3, 4 behave as if its an "L". So I am guessing its not the relay.)

Are the  compresser ohm reading in the correct range ? Can I  hook up a wire to any  compresser prong, and another wire to a different compressor prong and plug into outlet and the compresser should start ?  

Thank You

 

 


#4 J.C. Beat

J.C. Beat

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 08:11 AM

I am pretty sure there is 120volts going into the relay and overload, but not sure what is coming out.  Should I hook them outside the fridge to an outlet like I suggested for the compressor - then you can check if voltage comes out.

#5 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 21 August 2010 - 08:30 AM

Compressor OHMs is OK

most Start Relays shouldn't rattle (I've been told some do)

106.73182302 Tech Sheets

Compressor Test Cord Diagram is from SubZero 506 Service Manual

Posted Image



here's one from Amana Service Manual


Attached Image (viewed 24 times):

Posted Image


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#6 vee8power

vee8power

    Kohai

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 423 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Folgers

Posted 21 August 2010 - 09:21 AM

I use an RCO410 hard start kit:
 http://www.repaircli...7&PartID=965237
I wire nut an appliance cord to the input side of the hard start and, on your fridge, the black wire to the top pin on the compressor, the white to the bottom left, and the red to the bottom right. If you have a clamp-on ammeter, put it around one of the wires from the test cord. Plug it in and see if the compressor starts and watch the meter. The first couple of seconds after the compressor starts, it should draw something around 9 amps then go back down to something like 1.2- 2 amps. If this is the case, this part will almost certainly solve your problem. You can splice the hard start kit into the wires of your refrigerator, or, if you prefer, get the O.E.M start device for it.


#7 J.C. Beat

J.C. Beat

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 09:46 AM

I have continuity across the 2 prongs infront of the overload device. From front of device to rear, no continuity. I think this means overload is OK.

So it seems "compressor, overload, relay" might be OK. Then what else might prevent compresser from starting ? Could it be the Adaptive Defrost Control and is there a way to test that with a voltage, amm, resitance meters. 

 


#8 J.C. Beat

J.C. Beat

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 09:52 AM

Are you sure about using a 3 in 1 for this compressor. A repair shop told me it can damage the compressor

#9 jkirksey1889

jkirksey1889

    Sōhei

  • Chief Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 190 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 09:59 AM

This may be a dumb question but what is the purpose of the momentary switch in the diagram?


#10 appl.tech.29501

appl.tech.29501

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,025 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Waffle House Coffee

Posted 21 August 2010 - 10:02 AM

[user=69990]J.C. Beat[/user] wrote:

I have continuity across the 2 prongs infront of the overload device. From front of device to rear, no continuity. I think this means overload is OK.

So it seems "compressor, overload, relay" might be OK. Then what else might prevent compresser from starting ? Could it be the Adaptive Defrost Control and is there a way to test that with a voltage, amm, resitance meters. 

 


This is your overload..you should have continuity form the male gold terminal to the female round silver terminal that plugs onto the compressor. Do not install a hard start until we know whats going on.

Posted Image

If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

One on one repair help now available !

http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/

http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501

http://www.facebook.com/ApplTech29501

www.eliteapplianceservice.org

#11 J.C. Beat

J.C. Beat

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 10:25 AM

No continuity between any of the 2 golds to female round silver.

I have been up all night. So that must mean overload is no good !

#12 appl.tech.29501

appl.tech.29501

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,025 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Waffle House Coffee

Posted 21 August 2010 - 10:36 AM

correcta mundo, its bad

come and get her Over load Link or you may want to replace the relay at the same time (recommended)

Cross your fingers...sometimes they just go bad, usually they go bad when the compressors are drawing alot of amps or are shorted to ground...you may not be out of the woods yet but you do need a new one to proceed.

If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

One on one repair help now available !

http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/

http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501

http://www.facebook.com/ApplTech29501

www.eliteapplianceservice.org

#13 J.C. Beat

J.C. Beat

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 10:57 AM

Good news - I hard wired the red wire on fridge to the compresser top pin and I think the compressor kicked on - its very very quiet but if put screwdriver metal to compresser and its plastic handle to your ear you can sense a humm thats not there when when red wire goes to overload. Right now I am waiting to see if fridge gets cold.

#14 J.C. Beat

J.C. Beat

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 11:41 AM

I am guessing it was that lightning that caused power surges, because on that day the problem started. Of course could be a coincidence. 

I did test for continuity from any compressor pin to the ground and there was  not any continuity.

Freezer temperature lowered from 42 degrees Faren. to 30 degrees  in a half hour. :). Copper coils are hot to the touch.

But Fridge section did not really change from its 59 degrees. Fan in freeze compartment is blowing, but this maybe because it take a while till the cold air travels down. 

I dont want to cause a fire or possibly break the compressor, but would it be ok to hard wire for say an  hour and a half as I have done off/on and bypass the overload until parts arrive, also add dry ice ? Maybe use a surge protector ? Otherwise all food will spoil. 

#15 appl.tech.29501

appl.tech.29501

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,025 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Waffle House Coffee

Posted 21 August 2010 - 11:49 AM

yes you can leave it hard wired...only long enough to see if its going to cool properly...I would not leave the house with it like that. If you have an appliance parts place or used appliance dealer in your area they should have an over load. Any overload that looks like the one you have will work..don't be concerned with part #'s.
If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

One on one repair help now available !

http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/

http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501

http://www.facebook.com/ApplTech29501

www.eliteapplianceservice.org

#16 J.C. Beat

J.C. Beat

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 02:17 PM

:(

I had hard wired it in total for about 40 minutes. The compressor did get hot.

Disconnected it to rig up a 15 amp fuse in the hard wired red wire, to help protect the compresser until part arrived.

Well now I think compressor is damaged.

With compresser facing you

Bottom right pin to top pin infinite ohms.

Bottom left  pin to top pin infinite ohms.
 
Between 2 bottom pins 1 ohm.
 
I think this means the compressor is toast.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


 
 


#17 J.C. Beat

J.C. Beat

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 02:19 PM

However any compressor pin to ground is infinite ohms.

#18 appl.tech.29501

appl.tech.29501

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,025 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Waffle House Coffee

Posted 21 August 2010 - 05:22 PM

yep, time to go shopping :(

It wasn't anything you did, it was on its way out

If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

One on one repair help now available !

http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/

http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501

http://www.facebook.com/ApplTech29501

www.eliteapplianceservice.org

#19 J.C. Beat

J.C. Beat

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 32 posts

Posted 21 August 2010 - 07:36 PM

Your job is tough. U check the compressor looks ok, check the overload it looks bad, replace it and the next day fridge malfunctions, cutomer complains and calls U a cheat.  But dont take it personaly because many people know it ain't true. Something similar happened to my car for about $1,500 repair job, then the problem was not fixed. I really believe the mechanic tried his best and felt sorry the repair failed.

So is this what probably happened ? the compressor was going bad, started to draw too much amps, blew the overload. But by hardwiring to the compresser it got its execessive amps and burned out. If I had put the 15 amp fuse in initially it probably would have blown the fuse.

Thank you very much for the assistance.

P.S. I support the World Wildlife Fund and Nature Conservancy. The Sea Shepherds are also trying to protect Whales (not sure about dolphins).  U are doing what most people should be doing - trying to save wildlife and the environment. I get depressed at the abysmil slow progress being made.  


#20 appl.tech.29501

appl.tech.29501

    Sensei

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,025 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Waffle House Coffee

Posted 22 August 2010 - 04:59 AM

It may have not blown a 15 amp fuse, generally I always check the compressor amp draw with a clamp meter anytime I replace overload or relay. If the compressor runs consistantly over 3.5 amps I tell the customer to start getting prepared for the inevitable.

you may find that once the compressor cooled down completely the the resistance will change again, and it may even start again. But, still time to go shopping.
If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

One on one repair help now available !

http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/

http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501

http://www.facebook.com/ApplTech29501

www.eliteapplianceservice.org




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics