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lassengirl

frigidaire oven door lock stuck

7 posts in this topic

I attempted to use the self-clean feature on my electric wall oven (Frigidaire model # GLEB2757CBB).  After setting the timer to clean for 2 hours, the oven locked and began beeping about every 10 seconds about 6 times, so I hit the cancel button thinking I had done something wrong.  The lock and clean lights went out on the display panel, however the exhaust fan is still going and the oven door is now still locked shut (more than 3 hours later).   I really appreciate your help as I am live a long distance from the nearest town so calling a repairman is very costly.  Thanks. 

 

 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Not finding anything on that model number. Read this and post the corrected model number.

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Dear Samurai--

My apologies.  The correct model # is GLEB27S7CBB. 

Here's an update on what I've attempted so far.  I reset the oven to "clean" and it began to make a knocking/clicking sound, "door" was on the display panel, it beeped 3 times and then beeped about every 10 secords or so until I hit "Cancel." When I hit cancel, the clicking stopped and the panel no longer displayed "door." However, the oven door still didn't unclock and the exhaust fan continued to blow out cool air.

I also tripped the breaker to the off position, which resulted in stopping the exhaust fan, but the door did not unlock with the electricity off or when I restored the power.

What should I try next? Thanks again for your help!

Thanks! 

 

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Hi, I don't see any replies to your last post. We are having the same problem tonite. A friend from out of town phoned with her oven door locked shut asking for advice. I wanted to see what she meant  and how our's worked so I put our's into the self clean mode, waited until the door locked and then cancelled the cycle. Sure enough the door is locked and won't open. The oven hadn't even heated at all since the whole thing only took a few seconds, but here we are, two seperate households with locked ovens. Her's is a Frigidaire freestanding model and our's is a Gallery, slide in model with a gas cooktop.

Did you ever get yours unlocked. I see it was two weeks ago so you probably won't see this post. I have a feeling people with problems would only browse this when they are having trouble.

If someone else happens to read this and knows the fix, I'd sure appreciate a reply.

Thanks,

 

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This probably will not work because it is for another brand, but try putting it into clean, then press the cancell, then see if it will un-lock in a few minutes....worth a try....

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[align=left]There are a couple of mentions I found on Frigidaire site I copied and pasted hope its some thing you can use. See what happens when you can't sleep?[/align]

[align=left]Stopping or Interrupting a Self-Cleaning Cycle:[/align]

[align=left]If it becomes necessary to stop or interrupt a selfcleaning cycle.[/align]

[align=left]1. Press Clear/Off.[/align]

[align=left]2. Once the oven has cooled down for about 1 hour and  the "LOCK" light has gone out, the oven door can be opened. [/align]

[align=left]3. Restart the self-clean cycle once all conditions have been corrected.

[/align]

[align=left]The appliance is equipped with an electronic oven control and has an auto locking door latch feature.

[/align]

[align=left]When the self clean cycle is programmed, the door is locked by a motor operated latch system. The interior of oven does'nt need to heat up to 500°F/260°C before the door locks. However, until the temperature inside oven reaches 500°F/260°C, the self-clean program can be canceled and door will unlock immediately. After oven reaches temperatures over 500°F/260°C, the door will not unlock until temperature drops below 500°F/260°C.[/align]

[align=left]Models:[/align]

[align=left]Problem:[/align]

[align=left]Cause:[/align]

[align=left]Solution:[/align]

[align=left] [/align]

[align=left]All Self-Clean Gas and Electric with a single micro switch on the left side of the doorlock cam.[/align]

[align=left]After selecting a self-clean function the door lock motor circuit fails to operate causing an F9 fault code.[/align]

[align=left]Open lock motor winding, micro switch failure, open lock motor relay on EOC, binding of the lock latch and/or rod causing the EOC (electronic oven control) to time out the locking sequence with an F9 fault code. Thus, the EOC can’t be cleared or reset through a power down reset.[/align]

[align=left]After determining what caused a failure in the door lock circuit, reset the EOC electronic oven control so the customer can use the oven. Follow the timing locking sequence of the lock motor cam below. (see photo micro switch lever location)[/align]

[align=left]• Remove power from unit.[/align]

[align=left]• Restore power to unit and count to 12.[/align]

[align=left]• Push micro switch lever IN count to 2.[/align]

[align=left]• Release micro switch lever count to 2.[/align]

[align=left]• Push micro switch lever IN count to 15.[/align]

[align=left]• Release lever and set the clock time of day.[/align]

[align=left]• Program a bake or broiler function, but do not program a clean cycle. Doing so will cause the F9 code time out fault. Order and replace defective components.[/align]

[align=left]Note: If the EOC does not reset, repeat the above timing sequence with a jumper wire across the micro-switch terminals. If the F9 fault code does not clear, then replace the EOC. (electronic oven control)[/align]

I have to add I do NOT think this is what you are desribing to us but it is allI can bring up on door locks on Frigidaire site

[align=left]Self-Cleaning Oven Doors: ‘Lock at Random’[/align]

[align=left]Oven door locks at random. This may occur during bake cycle or even when the range is not in use. Failure is often very intermittent and usually does not occur when the service technician is present making an accurate diagnosis very difficult. Often the EOC and sensor are replaced unnecessarily.[/align]

[align=left]There are three possible causes for this; 1. A defective EOC. 2. A defective switch on the door latch/motor assembly. (or) 3. An internal short in the oven door light switch.[/align]

[align=left]1. Defective EOC. The software in the EOC could erroneously be initiating a locking sequence without the clean function being selected. Also the contacts in the latching relay on the EOC can short circuit or stick in the closed position. This is the least likely cause of the problem.[/align]

[align=left]2. Defective switches on door latch/motor assembly. This failure will only apply to ranges that have two switches in the monitor circuit of the latch motor assembly. These switches will be labeled Lock Switch A and Lock Switch B on the wiring diagram. On the lock motor assembly switch A is the lower switch and switch B is the upper switch. The EOC constantly monitors the condition (open or closed) of the microswitches and if the switch contacts fail either open when they should be closed or vice versa, then the EOC will run the lock motor to try to correct the condition. This will sometimes also result in a fault code displayed on the EOC.[/align]

[align=left]3. Internal short in oven door light switch. This is the most frequent cause of the intermittent nuisance locking of the oven door. On many models the oven light switch has two independent electrical circuits. One set of contacts serves as an interrupt circuit to the latch motor to prevent the motor from running if the door is open. The other set of contacts supplies line voltage to the oven lamp or oven lamp relay when the door is open.There is a specific type of short circuit that can occur inside the body of the switch which allows the voltage that would normally be supplied to the oven light circuit to bleed through to the latch motor contacts and cause the motor to run. This failure is difficult to diagnose unless you are present at the time of failure. There is one technique that can be used to achieve an accurate diagnosis when this failure is suspected. Locate the wire on the E4 or MDL terminal of the EOC this is usually a pink wire that comes from the oven door light switch. Disconnect the wire and insulate the terminal with electrical tape.[/align]

[align=left]Secure the wire so that it can not touch any other electrical components or short to ground. With this wire disconnected and secured allow the customer to continue using the range to see if the nuisance locking occurs again. If it does then there is no doubt that the cause is an internal short in the body of the oven door light switch.[/align]

[align=left]Problem:[/align]

[align=left]Cause:[/align]

[align=left]Solution:[/align]

[align=left]continued on next pageO L U T I O N S[/align]

[align=left]2 FEBRUARY 2004 SERVICE BULLETIN PAGE 5[/align]

[align=left]Hot Surface Indicator Lights[/align]

[align=left]When you receive a complaint from a customer that the hot surface indicator lamp on their smooth glass top range stays on after the cooktop has cooled down, you can be certain that the problem is NOT in the surface element switch.[/align]

[align=left]The hot surface indicator light operates on an independent circuit that is not connected to the element control switch. There is a separate set of contacts in the limiter on every element that are used to turn the light on or off as required.[/align]

[align=left]The terminals for these contacts often have one grey wire and one black wire connected to them. To diagnose the internal contacts you must disconnect the power to the range, disconnect either the grey or black wire, which ever is most convenient, and test for continuity between the terminals of the limiter contacts. If the top is cold there should be no continuity.[/align]

[align=left]The limiter is a non serviceable part . You must replace the entire element if the hot surface light contacts have stuck closed.[/align]

[align=left] [/align]

[align=left]Problem:[/align]

[align=left]Solution:[/align]

[align=left]Self-Cleaning Oven Doors: ‘Lock at Random’ -cont’d[/align]

[align=left]Below is pictured a typical circuit in which this kind of failure can occur. You can see that L1 is present at the lower left corner of the door switch common terminal. If the internal short occurs, L1 voltage is delivered to the normally open contact pictured at the top right corner of the door switch diagram. This will cause the latch motor to run.[/align]

post-950-129045087903_thumb.jpg

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Good stuff Dude!!!  Thanks........;)

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