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Kenmore Oasis HE, Whirlpool Cabrio HE, Maytag Bravos HE: Full Disassembly/Outer Tub Replace Guide


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#1 Tronicsmasta

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 09:10 PM

Udate:4/27/12
Consider using kit# W10435302 - Bearing Kit and Tool# W10447783 - Bearing Tool to re
place the bearing assembly for leaking tub seal, failed or noisy bearings. Only follow this guide if you need to replace the tub assembly. See this thread for the video on how to replace the bearing...


Kenmore Oasis HE, Whirlpool Cabrio HE, Maytag Bravos HE
Full Disassembly/Outer Tub Replace Guide

Part to Replace: Outer Tub Assembly
Difficulty: 2/3 out of 5 beers.
Time:
Professional: 40-60 mins.
Grasshopper: 2-hours+

Here is the machine:
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This is me:
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1. Open the top lid by depressing the tabs with a butter knife or putty knife between the top and cabinet. The picture below shows the top opened and the clips that you need to depress.
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2. Prop the lid up against the wall so it stays at a 90 degree angle.

3. Remove the tub ring by releasing the tabs on the side and removing the recirculation hose by releasing the clamp.
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4. Remove the wash plate bolt cover. There is a slot that meets with one of the wash plate "fins". Remove the wash plate by removing the 7/16in bolt. Pull up on the wash plate with a pair of pliers to remove it from the shaft. This will expose the wash plate shaft and basket hub.
Posted Image
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5. Remove the basket by holding the inside of the balance ring and pulling straight up. Sometimes, corrosion gets stuck on the shaft making it very difficult to remove the basket. If you have this issue, fill the machine with a hose and the basket will start to float. keep filling it while pulling up on the basket then pushing it down again. BE SURE your drain hose is still in the stand pipe or you will have a mess. Eventually, the pressure of you pulling up and down and the pressure of the water lifting the basket should free up the corrosion and allow you to free it. then drain the water by putting the machine in a drain/spin only mode or by using a Wet/Dry vac. In the field, we use a Pony Pump.
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7. Remove the sump cover by removing the 2-1/4in screws and lifting it.
http://i244.photobuc..._sump_cover.jpg

8. You now have to options on servicing the bottom of the machine. I prefer to tilt it on the left side about 45 to 60 degrees from the floor or you can lay it on its left or right side.
http://i244.photobuc...sher/12tilt.jpg

9. Remove the rotor by using a 1/4in Allen Wrench or 1/4in to 1/4in hex screw driver bit on a 1/4in socket. You can lock the rotor by placing a small screw driver in one of the large holes and line it up with a hole on the stator under it.
http://i244.photobuc...screwdriver.jpg

10. Loosen up and disconnect the harnesses from the 2 pumps and black retainers first. You will not be able to disconnect the stator until you remove it. Using a permanant marker, mark the tub where end of the white RPS sensor is(See the top most arrow in the pic below) so you can properly re-align it during re-assembly. Remove the 4 bolts holding in the stator. On some Kenmore Oasis Models, they will be 3/8in bolts. Whirlpool Cabrio/Maytag Bravos will be 5/16in bolts. Disconnect RPS Sensor harness. If your RPS sensor has been replaced after June 2008(estimated date) or your machine was made after June 08, your RPS Sensor and connector might be black and have a different plug than what is in these pics.
http://i244.photobuc...lts_harness.jpg
http://i244.photobuc...15Rotor_RPS.jpg

11. Remove the pumps by removing the 5/16in screws and clamps. In the picture, I still have the rotor and stator on. Your rotor and stator should be off by now. Disconnect the pressure switch hose, clip and screw, and separate the bracket from the shock shaft.
http://i244.photobuc...ottom_pumps.jpg
http://i244.photobuc...essure_hose.jpg


Beer break...


12. Stand the unit up. Tilt it to the side a bit and place a small bucket, bowl, or 4x4 block of wood under the rotor shaft. I keep a tire stop in my truck for this purpose. In the picture, I used a small thermostat recycling bucket that we keep in the office.
http://i244.photobuc...Bucket_Prop.jpg

13. Stand the machine up slowly while holding the tub in the center. This will allow the tub to clear the top of the cabinet. It should look like this after your done.
http://i244.photobuc...ver_cabinet.jpg

14. Release the shocks by depressing these tabs and push these rings down and clear the shocks from the tub.
http://i244.photobuc...er/19shocks.jpg

15. Remove the tub from the cabinet. Remove any parts that need to be transferred to the new tub. Depending on the model parts might include insulation and retainers, heaters, recirculation tube and bracket.

16. Have a beer and reassemble.

Edited by Tronicsmasta, 27 April 2012 - 02:04 PM.

It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).

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#2 mark mac

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Posted 10 October 2010 - 05:11 AM

I TAKE THE WHOLE TOP OFF,THEN REMOVE TUB RING AND BASKET,PULL WHOLE TUB ASSEMBLY OUT, FLIP OVER AND TRANSFER PARTS RESSEMBLE

#3 Tronicsmasta

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Posted 10 October 2010 - 09:04 AM

That works too. I take the rotor and stator off to lighten it. But you would have to disconnect the harnesses anyway... either from the ccu or the lower harness.
It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).

#4 Scottthewolf

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Posted 13 August 2011 - 02:11 AM

Thank You so much, Tronicsmasta. I escaped alot of these outer tub replacements because I didn't do warranty work for along time. Now that I am back doing warranty work for Whirlpool, I have one of these jobs coming up.

I had one where I could not lift the inner spin basket up because it was corroded as you said. I never tried adding water to it to make it float up.

I am starting to think Whirlpool inherited these seal and bearing problems from the Searcy, Arkansas washing machine plant where they manufactured the SAV model washers for Maytag.

By the way , I am starting to see a rash of the auto load sensing switch failures on the Whirlpool and Maytag top load washers. I ordered 3 of the same part # in one week and had a brand new switch that was defective right out of the box.

I think Whirlpool needs to find another vendor for these switches other than Arc-Less.

Edited by Scottthewolf, 13 August 2011 - 02:20 AM.

Scott Wolf

#5 Bobo385

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 07:30 PM

Whirlpool has a bearing and seal kit. They also have a tool to instal the kit. We are starting to just change the seal and bearings. I have not had the chance to do one yet but the guys that have say it takes them 35 min. one trip job done.

#6 kdog

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 11:04 PM

Whirlpool has a bearing and seal kit. They also have a tool to instal the kit.



Has ya got any part #'s for those ?
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#7 Bobo385

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Posted 17 September 2011 - 01:07 PM

I should be getting my set in October this is when they will be common stock for everyone in the company. Will post # as soon as I get them.

#8 Bobo385

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 05:24 PM

last post premature it happens sorry. At our October meeting found out it was a pilot project for the tool. the tech's sent in there comments and they tell us whirlpool is in the process of tweaking the tool it is coming. I will post part numbers ASAP .

#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 October 2011 - 06:01 PM

Domo for the update, Bobo! :thumbsup:

#10 Bobo385

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 09:23 PM

Just received the tool to change the bearing also the replacement part. No instructions with the tool the part has instructions and looks pretty easy also comes with a tube of grease and adhesive. TOOL PART # 92 / 309 / W10447783 PART # 26 /110 / W10435302 Sorry no pictures need a new scanner.

#11 kdog

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 09:33 PM

We have been enlightened, see here: http://www.applianto...257#entry216257
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#12 delawaredrew

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 09:17 PM

I also got the tool recently, all laundry techs did, but haven't used it. The only tech who tried somehow broke the arm that sticks into the sump.

#13 DanInKansas

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 02:18 PM

On heavily corroded units, I have used the strategy of "PB Blaster and wait". This has worked every time but once, when the inner basket was welded so heavily to the spindle that the manufacturer advised "using a hammer and chisel." I told the customer that I was NOT going to do that and would be replacing the outer tub and inner basket.

I am really interested to know how well that tool and seal works; it would probably be easier than replacing the tubs, but on the other hand, when I replace the tub, I am SURE I've got it. This "just change the seal" idea leaves me worried I'll be leaving water trails behind me.

#14 sh2sh2

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 09:09 AM

haven't had any issues or call backs from any of the replacements i have done so far. Its just like changing a wheel bearing when i used to work on cars for a living.

#15 Dan Webster

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 11:20 AM

Poop Daddy yore link don't work for me:
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#16 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 11:26 AM

works for me :whistling:
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#17 Fix It Once

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 03:08 PM

I also got the tool recently, all laundry techs did, but haven't used it. The only tech who tried somehow broke the arm that sticks into the sump.


How on Earth did he break that arm..? That would take some doing...Bob/ Freedom Appliance

My first post. On the above. How on Earth did he break that arm..?That would take some doing...Bob/ Freedom Appliance

#18 delawaredrew

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 11:53 PM

Bob - it broke off at the nut. The weld failed.




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