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LG DW LDS5811


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10 replies to this topic

#1 red chili time

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 07:40 AM

I took on an LG dishwasher for a friend, don't usually do LG DWs, and i'm having some problems with it.

The complaint was no draining and it wasn't. Never got an error though. It would push the water column slowly up to the dispose-all but just enough for a trickle. It would eventually drain the machine with two cancel/drains (5minutes +-).

I pulled the unit out, turned it upside down, changed the pump, changed the weird shaped sump gasket , changed the filter assy with the two fragile gaskets, and blew out the hose, put it all back together and still the same trickle.

I took the sump apart the second time, but just the top part that the top and middle spray arm tube is attached to and started a drain and noticed a boiling action around the entry port for the drain pump - like the pump was running fine but not pushing water out the hose. Put it back together  and did several drains and once noticed that water seemed to be pushing back up into the machine and coming out the filter area in the middle.

Anyone have such luck with an LG DW?

Thanks for your time....



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#2 Tuco

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 09:20 AM

Using my years of shad tree experience......
1) Check the Air Gap on top the sink for grit/crud. Clean as necessary.
2) Pull drain hose off of the garbage disposer, use your finger or screw driver to look for crude at the Garbage Disposer drain inlet nipple.
3) If you still have a drain problem, get a hose and hook it to the DW pump (drain) and the other end to a open bucket. If it drains now, you know the hose in the cabinet is blocked.
4) If no drain...I‘d look at the pump again.
5) You might want to look at the high water level cut off switch inside the dish cabin, to see if it is messed up ...but I’m starting to reach a little here.
6) Hope this helps some.

#3 red chili time

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 10:40 AM

Thanks Tuco,
1) no airgap 2) did that, no obstruction 3) blew out the hose when unit was dis-assembled 4) new pump same as the old pump 5) normal fill level and stops

this one's really got me over the barrel - it sure doesn't look like a bosch down in that sump... or a Frigidaire for that matter... gotta love that FDB


#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 04:10 PM

The blow-through test on drain hose can be deceiving especially if you're using compressed air and not the lip lock method. For example, I have seen the cute plumber's trick where they add in a drain hose extension and crank the hell out of the clamp so that it all but completely shuts off the flow thru the drain hose. The end result was no draining.

So, the moral of the story is to run the dishwasher in drain mode with a piece of hose connected at the discharge going into a bucket or pot so that you can see the discharge stream in action.

#5 john63

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Posted 19 October 2010 - 06:23 PM

Remove the drain hose from the DRAIN MOTOR / PUMP ASSY.

Examine the *drain hose* for small debris (nut /seed /other) blocking the flow of water out of the drain pump. The drain hose has a small check valve inside of it.

Remove the DRAIN MOTOR. Check for glass shards or impeller damage.

When using compressed air to clear a drain line---always apply pressure outward to the sink disposer (or standard sink drain connection).

 

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#6 red chili time

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Posted 20 October 2010 - 01:05 PM

Thanks for the replies...
I actually used the lip-lock method to blow out the drain hose - ick.
 However! I didn't see any back flow preventer in the drain hose
Do those things get chewed up and spat out?

John63; there really should be a check valve in the hose? LG LDS5811?   
  Is it in the pump end of the hose or deeper inside it?

 There's a black check valve in the drain sump but, as far as i can tell, it goes on a hose that goes back into the sump from the drain pump area...

Do i need a new hose? or a new check valve in the drain sump or both?

#7 john63

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Posted 20 October 2010 - 06:32 PM

There's a small check valve inside of the drain hose---where it connects to the sump assy (drain body). Over time---this small black / rubber valve *can* become dislodged and drain into the sink disposer (or sink drain). It is not really necessary to replace the drain hose if it is missing as long as the drain hose has a *loop* which elevates the drain hose higher than the discharge connection of the sink disposer.

If the impellers are not damaged and the DRAIN MOTOR runs...

If the DRAIN HOSE is clear...

If you're 100% positive that the DRAIN HOSE is not kinked / crimped *anywhere*...

If the discharge connector of the SUMP ASSY is clear and the anti-drainback rubber flapper is not stuck (water flows into pump body thru this discharge hole) and no food or glass shards obstruct this hole...

Replace the DRAIN MOTOR.

 


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 red chili time

red chili time

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 06:59 AM

Thanks John63, for getting back...

The check valve is definitely not in the hose any longer.

Replaced the pump already thinking that it was the culprit - that's when i got stuck.

Got a couple of the black sump check valves on the way, though on back-order.

I'll go out tonight when they get off work and check it out with a "high loop"
    - not sure if that will help - there's just no real pump pressure.

I'll let you know either way.



#9 john63

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 05:48 PM

Based on your posts...

I'm leaning towards a *blockage in the drain hose* as the culprit.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 red chili time

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 10:16 PM

Thanks for the posts everyone and John63 thanks for the tip about the check-valve in the drain hose. Got the part in. Went back to the scene.
Flipped that sucker on it's top.
Carefully extracted my previously replaced perfectly good pump.
Slapped his old pump back on.
Changed out the old toothless drain hose.
Put on the new gray drain hose with intact check valve.
Did the 180 on the machine and stuck it back in the cave.
And it f___in worked.

A piece of glass (i'm guessing) cut out most of the old flapper.

Sorry, maybe too much hops at this point, but who woulda thunk?
The check valve is in the drain hose.... ¿


#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 November 2010 - 05:39 AM

Good stuff!

For others coming along later and reading this, here's the part link for the drain hiose==> http://www.repaircli...in-Hose/1557758




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