16 replies to this topic

[jonathanslam]

I have this old, but trusty maytag LAT9334AAE washer machine and i've had it for many many years. Recently, we used it and since the load was too large, something happened. I went into the laundry room in the house and smelled this unpleasant burnt smell... The kind of burnt smell kinda like it was from plastic or maybe rubber, not COMPLETELY sure though, it's hard to describe, but yea there was smoke and you could smell something burnt. So here's the deal...

After that wash, I noticed the smell, and later someone else started to use the washing machine... Water loaded into the machine fine, then started agitating for a minute. After a minute of agitating, I hear it start making a small constant sound that was unusual, but it was also making the washing machine shake a bit more than it is supposed to... Not uncontrollably shaking, but still, shaking a bit.

I know that there has to be something wrong with it, I mean, it did smell burnt before and now it's making the extra "sound" that it wasn't making for the last ten years. Anyway, I put the washing machine in spin mode without water inside before, but spin mode was flawless, no surprises, spin mode was normal.

That's it. I think I might take this challenge in fixing this washing machine myself since I found so many resources online. So anyway, any help, ideas, tips, or anyone that knows what I need to replace or fix would be greatly appreciated. On a very tight budget, can't afford to buy a new washer right now, and I don't want to really hire someone to fix it, and end up finding out its a repair that would be way more than what I can afford... Someone told me that if it were the transmission, it would be around $300 to fix it, and if it were something with a motor, it would be around $120.

If anyone has anything to share, or any ideas, no little help is too little. Thanks!

Pictures are here:

I can see that the belt is somewhat messed up, and I think that's the only problem... Feel free to ask any questions to help me diagnose this problem. The belt is cheap, doesnt even cost $10 to replace. I just hope its not a bigger problem.

[jonathanslam]

If you want to see the picture larger, right click on the picture and click "Large"

[Budget Appliance Repair]

All looks good, no signs of any main seal leakage.  Looks all in good shape except the belt.

Make sure the motor slides nice and smooth on its slides, and make sure you can turn the transmission pulley both ways.  One way it will turn real easy and the agitator will go back and forth, in the other direction it should turn easy then get harder as it releases the brake then the complete transmission and spin basket should start turning.

If it won't turn the spin basket there's a possibility that you have a piece of clothing trapped between the outer tub and spin basket.

Looks to me like just a very severely worn out belt is the main problem, these are one of the best old machines around and as good as shape as the inside looks, it would  be very much worth keeping it going even if you had to replace the main seal and bearing and spend $100-$200 it would be worth it.

[jonathanslam]

Thanks. I've been doing a lot of research. I'm actually quite confused to as to what the belt is called. I see that there are two belts there. Correct me if i'm wrong, the front belt is the pump belt, and the other belt is the drive belt. I'm just clarifying since I'm looking at so many numbers and so many websites, and seeing something here and there. Yeah, it's a great washer, had it for over 10 years. They don't mess around when they say dependable care.

[jonathanslam]

I guess i'll go ahead and look at the model number of the belt and order a belt tomorrow... Once it gets here, i'll figure out how to install it. If anyone has links to share on that, that'd be great, but I'll be researching continuously on this. This actually seems like a fun "project" at perhaps an inconvenient time, haha.

But thanks, Willie. Appreciate your comments and suggestions.

[Budget Appliance Repair]

3/8" wide Pump Belt 211124
http://www.repaircli...lt-Drive/437300

1/2" wide Drive Belt 211125
http://www.repaircli...lt-Drive/437301

If you are going to replace both belts you can purchase them as a set cheaper
2 Belt set 12112425
http://www.repaircli...lt-Drive/402507


I hardly ever replace the pump belt unless it is in exceptionally bad condition.  It is designed to run very loose and doesn't get any abuse like the main drive belt can get from overloading.

[jonathanslam]

Yeah, I'm just going to order the drive belt. I completely examined the pump belt and it looks just fine.

[jonathanslam]

Ordered. I received it today but i'm having a problem. According to the package (I ordered the set), the pump belt must have a 1/4" gap, but I can touch both sides with resistance when i pull them towards eachother. I can't figure it out. It says remove the pump screws...

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

It's a light touch kindof a deal. You're looking for the belts to be about 1/4" apart when you start to feel the gentle tug of the motor mount spring resistance.

And you don't remove the pump screws, just loosen 'em so you can slide the pump and make the tension adjustment.

[jonathanslam]

Actually, it has already been set to be all the way to be at the far right. Anyway, yeah it's fine now. okay, now my other question is that... Should I have to lubricate the pulley? The maytag instructions don't say anything but I was wondering.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Which pulley you be talking about, budrow-- the motor carriage plate:



Not a bad idea to lube that up periodically to make sure the motor moves back and forth freely.

[jonathanslam]

Okay, agitation was just fine. Right now, there is no more water in the washer. I was halfway through the washing cycle and about 20-30 mins into the wash, the washer started spinning and the entire washing machine began to shake uncontrollably. I instantly turned it off and started to smell some rubber, and turned off the washer.

[jonathanslam]

Okay, now spin cycle is not working right. I think I just need to change something with the configuration of the belts since the agitation issue was fixed, but the spin cycle was always working until now, when I changed both belts..

I made a video, you can hear what it sounds like and the settings the washer is currently in.

[jonathanslam]

Okay, I pushed down with my both to try to stabilize it and worked a bit, but still it was overpowering my ability to suppress it from staying steady. Do you think this could be a belt configuration problem? Or do you think that it has nothing to do with that and I just nee to find a way to set the washer completely steady?

[jonathanslam]

But even if its an issue with being steady, I shouldn't been smelling the smallest hint of burning smell, should I? I read before that someone did smell it but it was the rubber breaking in...

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

What kind of load did you have in your washer when you shot the video? Very light loads can be problematic because they can clump to one side. Heavy load is best.

If problem persists, check:

- weight distribution among the washer feet by rocking the diagonals; even a little movement will translate into big movement during spin

- damper pads==> http://applianceguru...rum2/18977.html

[jonathanslam]

A medium load. About 3-4 jackets, 5-6 shirts, about 2-3 pairs of socks, and a few pairs of pants. Not even close to a regular load I would usually do. I'll see tomorrow when I do laundry again and report what is going on.