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gyale

Kenmore Washer Doesn't want to Spin

25 posts in this topic

(':banana:', '

I'm a newbie to this great site! I've read up on most of the FAQ's and haven't really found my exact problem :? Machine does all it supposed to do, but doesn't spin dry. I bypass the lid switch and when it comes to spin cycle it doesn't want to go. BUT if I turn the tub a little it does slowly start and completes the cycle. My question great Master, I've checked the connector and is ok and not broken. So how do I know if I have a weak clutch? If I turn dial to perm press cycle, then works fine through out wash.:huh: Does this have anything to do inside transmission box:yikes:', thanks

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Hello, my newbie friend. Much of the answer to your questions depends upon whether your washer is the so-called direct drive or the older, venerable belt drive model. A model number would be most helpful.

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So Sorry, This is a Direct Drive , Model 110.23812':D',

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I checked the drive coupling already and that wasn't the problem:banana: What I don't understand is why would it work in the perm press cycle and not in regular cycle Ole master #1 :notworthy:I'm going to tear into it and shoot:rocketman: for the best.:drowning: How would I know if the clutch spring is weak:grr:

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Hey Master, I've got my shell off agitator out and down to the spanner nut.:dazzler: I've inspected the Drive block notches and all other parts  good.:clapping: Which way does the spanner nut come off? clockwise or counter clockwise? What is under tub? What should I be looking for? Is there a plastic ring or something that engages the tub to spin?:huh: You said I may have a weak clutch spring or a weak drive Basket? How would I know or see if it's weak? Please Master, Machine is apart, Mama-son NOT HAPPY :yikes:

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Master, how do I turn the spanner nut and stop the tub from spinning? my parts look better than the pictures you efered me to, so I don't know what else I can do before attacking the clutch area.

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Well, first of all, I'm a little disappointed that you didn't use more emotes in your posts. :P

Why would you want to remove the spanner nut at this stage of the game? Time to feast your keen, vulcan squinties underneath the washer.

First, remove the washer cabinet.

Now, use a piece of insulated wire to by-pass the lid switch wires, turn the timer to spin and pull out the knob, push the knob back in and pull it out again. Watch for the clutch drum to turn (brown section in picture A). If it is turning but the inner wash tub is not, then more often than not you have a worn clutch lining or a weak spin spring, also the brake may have seized up. If the clutch drum is not turning and washer is not spinning, often the failure is in the transmission gear box (picture B).

directclutch.JPG?dc=4675509487258631407

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:)while I'm this far apart:vinnie: and will attack clutch later, I would like to clean sludge out of plastic tub and figure this also may be a part of the problem with build up of:moondance:if you know what I mean.:evil: Again Master,which way does the spanner nut turn:grr: Must do before Mama-son get back with ricshaw! or :whipit:

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You'll need a spanner wrench and a heavy ball peen hammer. Tap the spanner wrench CCW.

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:banana:Thank you #1 Master:banana: Popa-son will do and get back with results. :laffinatchoo:

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:yikes:HELP! I'm having a similar problem. Washer agitates, dumps, but doesn't spin out. :drowning:

There's a 'hot' rubber type smell when I opened the lid at the end of the cycle. Once I gave the tub a turn, while holding in the button thingie to make it think the lid was closed, it did spin out fully. I've propped a pencil in there so I can open the lid to check it so I don't burn something up, and stay within a few feet of the washer til the spin cycle is over. But I don't intend to keep this up!

I need to get it fixed and must figure out what to do myself, as calling a repair man is out of the question! Luckily, I've become quite handy in the last few years! I've fixed my dryer and my built in dishwasher, hopefully I can handle this repair as well! :huh:

My model # is 110.2691269

I must say, after all thr trouble I have endured with the Sears repair folks, I will NEVER buy an appliance at Sears again. This washer has been a lemon since shortly after getting it, with no viable resolve from Sears. At least 8 service calls, for the same problem, in less than 1 year. They refused to replace it, even when it was still under warranty, which I refused to renew. Why pay for something that they never ended up fixing anyway? :(

Thank you,

Sue

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Not finding anything on that model number.  Re-check it.

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Suehuny  ya have a bad clutch    and odds are many times that the washer has been overloaded when the clutch goes bad ........or that the transmission has dropped oil into the clutch.......  If you can spin the basket and it starts to take off change the clutch and just make sure that there is no oil dripping ... and you will normally get some time out of it....

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:yikes:Looks like I dropped the last number off the model #, it should have been 110.26912691

Guess that's what happens when you write it on the palm of your hand, cause it's too many numbers to remember! :D

Sue

 

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Soooooooooooooo...oh exalted Master Appliantologist how tough is the clutch to change? :shock:

Sue

 

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ya have to take off the agitator drop the motor and the trans the clutch sits on top of the trans... If ya never done it it could take ya a while or ya could drop the trans 1/2 way down and remove the clutch band and sand the inside of the old clutch clean it up and put the new clutch band in if its a tight room...  If that trans isnt leaking you have been overloading the hell out of that machine and ya probably already did a bunch of couplers in the past too.

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replace the transmission > sears techwizard24/

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Anywhere I can get photos to help me with this? I'm a visual kind of person, directions and I don't seem to follow one another well

No, I've not been overloading the hell out of this washer, a time or two perhaps but not on a regular basis. There's only 3 of us, my 2 'bug-rats' and myself, I do laundry at least every other day, if not daily! No need to overstuff my extra capacity washer!

This washer was a 'scratch & dent' rebuilt from Sears, I purchased it in '97 or '98. If I remember correctly it was the transmission and/or motor that had to be replaced. I suspect there is some sort of 'congenital' defect with this washer (perhaps it's possessed!) I also opted for the extended warranty, and maintained that warranty til about 1 year ago. When I moved from IL to OH in 2000 and my washer began 'acting up' they told me it was because it moved from a basement, cement floor, to a 2nd floor, floating floor, townhouse. It made this awful noise when it agitated, and the tub was always off balance. I had at LEAST 4 calls regarding these issues. The Sears tech told me it would resolve when I moved back to a soild basement floor. In 2001 I bought a house, complete with basement! That didn't work, 4 more calls, all for the same issue, and never totally resolved. A couple of techs told me I had a lemon and it would probably be replaced, no such luck. It was deemed I hadn't had enough issues with my washer and didn't warrant a replacement. I argued over it to no avail. I also stopped renewing my service contract. Why pay for lack of service?

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Dear Apprentice Appliantologist, replace the transmission AND the clutch?

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NORMALY i don`t replace the clutch  the gears inside the trans are plastic and break or split however in some cases the white plastic lock on the basket drive (for spin ) will break and the unit be very noisey and won`t spin but after reading your post i recommend replacing the transmission

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Dear Apprentice Appliantologist

Soooooooooooooooo, just the transmission and not the clutch? Once I get in there will I be able to tell if the clutch needs replacing?????

This would be WAY simpler if :tinkerbell:could just zap it with her wand!

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Hello, my unclutched friend.  Perhaps you are seeing why the Appliance Terminator is a Master Appliantologist  and jahjah is merely an apprentice. 

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[user=45]Moostafa[/user] wrote:

Hello, my unclutched friend.  Perhaps you are seeing why the Appliance Terminator is a Master Appliantologist  and jahjah is merely an apprentice. 

Because his manner of communication is confusing at best? :?

I know, if given the proper instruction, incuding a schematic, IF I've given you the correct information, there is no reason why I can't tackle this project with satisfying results. My Dad, God rest his soul, always said, ''IF you can take it apart, you CAN put it back together again.' And IF I can take it apart, AND put it back together, then I SHOULD be able to fix the problem! :dude: Unfortunately, getting a repair man in here to do it isn't really an option.

 

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Master Appliantologist , are you telling me that I only need to replace the clutch?

Thank you,

Sue

 

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