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Whirlpool SS22AEXHWO2


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15 replies to this topic

#1 Hell is a bad place 2 be

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 12:37 PM

The ice maker first started going while back when it started getting slower and slower then finally not working at all. It took about a year and a half for this to happen from when I first realized it was making ice slowly.

I am wondering if installing a relacement ice maker would get me back up and running?



Believe or Burn

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 02:41 PM

Freezer needs to be at +15F or colder for the IceMaker to work.

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#3 kdog

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 02:51 PM

Changed the Filter lately ? Clean the Condensor Coils ?
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#4 Hell is a bad place 2 be

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 03:29 PM

Temp is steady at 5.0 F. I haven't changed the filter because the water dispenser on the door puts water out with good flow. i am assuming that the water is T'd of after the filter.

I haven't checked the condenser coil because the fridge/freezer seem to be working fine. the last time I vacuumed out around the condenser coil was about two years ago.

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#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 03:35 PM

Is there ice in the IceMaker, but it won't "harvest" ?

 

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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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#6 Hell is a bad place 2 be

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 03:42 PM

There was ice in there when it first quit but it has all evaporated away since then. The fingers that expel the cubes I believe is the problem. it has never had a problem with temp or water supply. I think the fingers are possibly stuck in mid cycle.

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#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 03:49 PM

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/10/24/manually-starting-the-harvest-cycle-in-the-whirlpool-built-modular-icemaker/
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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#8 Hell is a bad place 2 be

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 04:50 PM

Did the jumper, no rake arm movement.

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#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 05:05 PM

check for 120v AC between L to N

if OK, then try jumper N to M to see if the Motor runs

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#10 Hell is a bad place 2 be

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 06:22 PM

[user=3641]RegUS_PatOff[/user] wrote:

check for 120v AC between L to N

if OK, then try jumper N to M to see if the Motor runs

L-N 120 VOLTS

M-N nothing

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#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 06:32 PM

looks like a bad IceMaker or possibly just the Control Module'

http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=1857

 

00928338.jpg

 

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1469018

 

01079006.jpg


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#12 Hell is a bad place 2 be

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 09:05 PM

I ordered and installed the control module. It did not fix the problem. the old control module motor was burnt out so it was definitely part of the problem. the new one just keeps going round and round not stopping at all. It takes about three or four minutes for it to go one time round also the water does not turn on to fill the tray. Is the new control module faulty?

What do I check next?
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#13 Hell is a bad place 2 be

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 09:05 PM

I was curious and I pulled the ice maker out and found lots of corrosion on the metal parts and the heat coil on the ice cube tray was corroded completely through. I guess I found the answer to my question. Now i wish I would have pulled the whole ice maker when I was diagnosing instead of assuming it was just the control module.
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#14 Hell is a bad place 2 be

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 09:07 PM

i made those two posts on the other board and I just transferred them to this thread on this board.
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#15 john63

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 09:17 PM

Replacing the entire icemaker assembly is usually best.

The icemaker *mold* can become corroded---leaving *specks* in cubes.

Check the FILL TUBE that directs water into the icemaker. Verify that it is not clogged with ice.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#16 Hell is a bad place 2 be

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 10:00 PM

I did have specks in my cubes for a little while before the ice maker crapped out on me. I didn't know what they were being caused by, now I know. I guess dirty ice cubes are a tell tale sign that you have corrosion in the mold and maybe a sign that your ice maker is ready to crap out on you.

I will make sure the fill tube is clear of ice when i install the new ice maker.
Believe or Burn




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