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Kenmore 417.29042991 Won't spin or agitate


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#1 Smallchinaman

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 11:47 AM

Kenmore Model# 417.29042991

My problem started with the motor only turning intermittently, now it won't turn at all (with or without the belt on). I ran through the tech sheet and everything checked out okay. I dismantled the motor, replaced the bearings and checked the brushes (could not find anything wrong).
I also tried running through your flow chart, but my model doesn't have a six pin connector on the speed control, it has a nine pin and a four pin.
Unfortunately, I paid a technician to come and diagnose it for me. He cleaned the spare change out of the pump and told me the motor was bad. I wasn't there to watch him, but I don't even think he put a meter on it. His conclusion came from the fact that the bearings were making a bit of noise. They were completely free, so I can't imagine that they could cause the motor to not function. As I mentioned earlier, I humored him and replaced the bearings.
I saw in some of the other threads that the delay of the door lock release may be a clue. I ran mine on a normal cycle, pulled the knob and the door lock released immediately. I tried this for several different points in the cycle and got the same result. The water was turned off, so there was no water in the tub during this test. Not sure if any of this is valid info, but thought I would throw it out just in case.
In a last ditch effort for me to try to understand what is going on, I put a meter on the motor connector while it was in a final spin. I got voltage (~120V) on every pin except the tach pins.
Now I am really confused. The motor has voltage but won't spin. The bearings and brushes are good, the windings are okay, why won't it spin? I can't even give it a kick start and get it to spin.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

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#2 BrntToast

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 06:21 PM

set machine for spin, give the tub pulley a good spin by hand to spin the motor,watch the motor closely for sparking
may be bad contact between the brushes and the armature
its easier to see the sparking with the room dark
from what you say about the door opening instantly though i suspect you need a door lock

The only stupid question is the one not asked

hope i've been helpfull, if you wish to buy Brnt beer kick here


http://brnttoast.googlepages.com/home


feel free to prvt msg frigidaire questions my way

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#3 BrntToast

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 06:37 PM

your original door lock for that generation for frigidaire built kenmore is no longer available
you must install a wiring harness upgrade and a new style door lock

if you decide to do this repair and the kit includes a big weight, throw it away, it is not necessary to change it, i never have and have never been back to one with a broken latch cause the weight was not changed out

http://www.repaircli....29042991-==c35



The only stupid question is the one not asked

hope i've been helpfull, if you wish to buy Brnt beer kick here


http://brnttoast.googlepages.com/home


feel free to prvt msg frigidaire questions my way

(i dont log in every day)

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 07:21 PM

Some photos and personal reflections on this job here==> http://fixitnow.com/...ashing-machine/

#5 Smallchinaman

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 09:17 PM

I checked the motor with the lights out, there was no arcing of any sort. It didn't even act like it was going to try to spin. When I had it apart I checked the brushes and armeture (or is it stator, I can never remember) and there was no sign of burning, with lots of brush and spring pressure left.
So, I went back and re-checked the door lock. Before when I did it, I just pulled the knob and it opened right up. I got to thinking about one of the other threads and I vaguely remember them saying to put it in a cycle and pull the plug from the wall. When I did this, it took a good thirty seconds for the door latch to release.
I pulled the door latch out and checked the components. The microswitch and solenoid both act as expected, but I have no idea what a PTC is, what it does, or how to check it.
Given this new information, would you still say the door switch is the culprit? I have no problem with ordering one and installing it, but I just want to make sure.
By the way, thanks for answering so quickly, and on Thanksgiving to boot!

#6 Smallchinaman

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 09:21 PM

One more tidbit, I did put a meter on the PTC, it is open regardless of the position of the solenoid.




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