Posted 24 April 2005 - 01:30 AM
Are you sure the door swith is ok, (It's one of those cheapy plastic ones that the activator arm likes to break off). Is the arm still sticking down where the door can contact it and do you hear a click noise when you press it. If so probably ok but you won't know for sure unless you bypass it to test or use a test meter to verify.
Since you mention the crushed vent I suspect your going to find that the thermal fuse is bad. It is designed to shut the heat off if it gets to hot because of a blocked vent or overload of clothes not letting air flow. (Usually, at least on the older sytle Whirlpool/Kenmores, if the dryer is gas and the thermal fuse goes out dryer will still run but not heat, on electric dryers complete dryer is dead. I don't know if that still holds true for this new style Whirlpool/Kenmore)
Use a putty knife to release the clips holding the lower panel on and find the white thing on top of the blower housing with two wires going to it. Take the wires off the fuse and connect them together (slid the two connector ends together and tape with electrical tape and test to see if it works. If it does, problem solved, order a new thermal fuse.)
Another thing that could cause this dryer to not run at all is a broken belt or the "belt break sensor switch has failed or wires to the switch have shorted. (You will find this switch down on the rear of the motor cradle just under the idler pulley arm.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
At first, it was a simple deal because the house circuit breaker had tripped. I reset the breaker and expected it to come on and it didn't. There is absolutely power to the plug, and I'm fairly positive that the door switch isn't the problem. Can it be a dryer fuse??? If so, where is it on my model? Also, I noticed that my exhaust tubing (rigid) had been pinched severly at the point of exit on the wall. Could this have somehow triggered an event? Thanks in advance for your help...
