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whitestroke

Monogram ziss420d

16 posts in this topic

FF side is 50+ degrees and freezer is -4 degrees, It is set to be 37 degrees and 0 degrees. Evap, QC, and Cond. Fan are all working.

I've replaced the thermistors and motherboard.

Where's the FF Damper. Is it be behind the caulked in styrofoam box on the ceiling of FF compartment?

And how do you get to the Evaporator and all the ducting to check for frost. It seems to be inside a riveted together sheet metal box on top shelf access panel.

I can't seem to get to anything, I little help PLEASE..

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

How's your Thermistors ?

http://fixitnow.com/...ed-thermistors/

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/

may not need to do all of the following:

from the 31-9091 service manual:

Damper

The fresh food compartment receives chilled air via an electronic damper

that is positioned at the top rear of the fresh food compartment.

The damper is controlled by the main control board and when open,

allows the evaporator fan to push chilled air from the evaporator

into the fresh food compartment.

To Remove the Damper

1. Remove the light cover.

2. Remove 4 Phillips screws and the light assembly.

3. Remove the Styrofoam section covering the damper.

4. Disconnect the damper wiring connector.

5. Carefully pull the damper out of the mullion and remove.

Access to the Evaporator:

To Remove the Evaporator Fan

1. Remove the ice bucket.

2. Disconnect the icemaker connector.

Loosen 2 screws and remove icemaker.

3. Remove 4 screws and slide the icemaker drive motor assembly forward.

Disconnect the wiring connector and remove the assembly.

4. Remove 2 screws and inner section of left ice bucket track.

5. Remove 2 screws and wiring cover.

6. Remove 6 screws and evaporator fan cover.

7. Disconnect the evaporator fan wiring connector.

8. Remove 2 screws from the fan mounting bracket and remove the fan.

Defrost Heater

Caution: Use care to avoid scratching the finish on unit walls.

The defrost heater is a single calrod-type, radiant heater mounted on the evaporator.

To remove the defrost heater:

1. Remove the evaporator fan.

2. Remove 8 screws and freezer ceiling panel.

3. Remove Styrofoam insulation from the bottom of the evaporator drain pan.

4. Loosen evaporator drain hose clamp.

5. Lower left side of evaporator drain pan and slide right side out of drain hose and remove.

6. Disconnect the heater wiring.

7. Remove 2 screws from the left and right heater fasteners.

8. Slide the heater toward the front of the freezer compartment and remove.

Edited by RegUS_PatOff
Corrected link to the Apprentice page.

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I purchased one new Thermistor and OHM's were the same as 2 in FF compartment. So there good.

I took Styrofoam box out and the Damper was closed, I removed and checked resistance between blue and red and blue and white and one was open circuit is door suppose to be in the midway position? to get resistance from both combination's?

Anyway I plugged it back in and the door opened allowing cold air into FF. Where is the other Damper that I assume allows air to flow back to the Evaporator? Is it the opening about 4" in front of the Styrofoam input Damper?

The schematic shows 2 Dampers on the same circuit(could only find 1 on the parts diagram) and 1 Damper on the Quick Chill drawer.

Anyway to tell if Evaporator is iced over without taking Icemaker and back wallapart?

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OKAY! So 6 hours after I reinstalled Damper and it opened when I plugged it in. I now have +2 in freezer and 37 in FF. GOOD.

Now the question is, is it the contacts at the plug, or the actual Damper that hung up and wouldn't open? Should I just replace Damper($175.)?

Fridge was unplugged a few times from wall and Damper never opened then (I'm assuming this because Fridge FF never cooled down) until I removed and unplugged Damper and then reinstalled it.

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If the damper was getting stuck, you'd usually see frost accumulated in it.

More likely the damper motor is never getting the signal from the muthaboard to open and close. Can do some tests for this if you can find the mini-manual that comes with every GE fridge and is cleverly hidden. Some favorite hiding places: in the upper compressor compartment; behind the toe-grill, in a pouch pasted to the bottom, very tricky!

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This is all I found.

Won't let me post image.

Schematic and Tech Sheet/specifications

Muthaboard is new and Thermistors read good ohm's against new Thermistor.

Fridge is working good now but I'm going to clean Damper connection and replace Damper.

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Deleted unnecessary quotation. To reply, scroll down and use the Fast Reply box.

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Fax your tech sheet to me: 866-315-4504

or use an online image hosting service and post the link here.

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Welcome back Please correct the following errors, then resubmit the form:
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Did you try sending me a fax? I got a fax for a refrigerator but there was absolutely no reference or identifier. Plus it was too distorted to be useful.

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Is what's shown on the screen as big as it gets or is the downloaded version bigger?

It wants me to join Shutterfly to download. That ain't happening. Why not use any of the other free image services that aren't so noodgy: Picassa, Photobucket, Imageshack, yFrog, Flickr...

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make sure the door is shutting properly and pushing on the door switch. if this is ok check the door switch itself. the fridge will close the damper if the door is open too long.

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pagefrom319091mngrmsxse.jpg

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The above flowchart is wrong. It should say between YELLOW and RED and WHITE and BLUE.... You should get 420 ohms

I've checked this on my new Damper. Anyway thanks for your help!!! I'll keep my fingers crossed that the bad part(Damper) has been replaced.

Shoot me a email if you want Tech Sheet.

I bow to the Masters of Chill................

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