30 replies to this topic

[MVP82]

Ok, I want to start out by saying that I'm not an appliance technician however, I'm pretty mexhanic and I have limited electrical knowledge.

Range/oven make: Whirlpool
Model number: SF367LXSS

In short? My range/stove works just fine but the oven does not work at all.

When I try and use the broil function, I hear two clicks and then nothing happens. The broil element does not come on, get hot or anything. The same thing happens when I try and use the bake function except I don't hear any clicking, the timer just counts down and the desired temperature timer sounds just as if the oven has rechec the proper temperature, except it does not. LOL. The ERC appears visually to be fully functioning and there are no trouble codes. However, I know I shouldn't rule the possibility of a bad ERC even though visually it appears to be working.

I do not have a digital volt/ohm meter to test for voltage on the ERC or to test the resistance across the bake and broil elements. I'm cometely winging this, I'm just looking for thoughts or opinions on what may be the cause of my problems. Again, I know without truly troubleshooting this properly, it's just a shot in the dark.

[RegUS_PatOff]

SF367LXSS
The broil element does not come on...

This is a Gas Range, correct ?
Has it worked OK, up til now at this location ?
Any electric wiring changes in the house ?

[MVP82]

Yes it is in fact a gas range, it worked fine up until two days before thanksgiving (epic fail lol) there has been no wiring changes in the house.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Ah, the infamous and flakey direct spark ignition system. This was a design that Whirlpool wishes they had let quietly die on the drawing board. But, this albatross has flown the coop and landed in your house. Lucky you.

Check through the three service pointers in this post==> http://fixitnow.com/...-wont-stay-lit/

If they don't seem to apply to your situation, then you most likely need to replace the spark board==> http://www.repaircli...-Module/1038641

[MVP82]

Ok with the spark board if that was faulty, wouldn't it cause my stove not to work as well?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Depends on how, ezzacly, the board failed.

[MVP82]

What would it indicate if I can hear the igniter clicking but I can not see any spark?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Oven ignitor could be out of alignment our you need to install the grounding kit on the spark module board per the second service bulletin in the post I linked you to. Lots of good info there on known, common problems with these ranges; that's why I suggested you read through them.

[MVP82]

Right, I was reading them I was just trying to figure out how the oven igniter would get out of alignment. My apologies for my ignorance concerning the subject.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

No need to apologize for ignorance-- this is a School; without ignorance, we lose our Raison d'être. Now, not reading the material presented is another matter...

As explained in one of the bulletins, there was a problem with some of the bake burners where the ignition ports were drilled wrong, causing a misalignment with the ignitor. However, if this were the case, I would expect for it to have manifested much earlier than now. Since you told Grand Master Funk that it was working fine up 'till recently, I would think the cause would be something else. There can be some educated guess-work that goes into troubleshooting these ranges RE: my earlier comments.

[RegUS_PatOff]

What would it indicate if I can hear the igniter clicking but I can not see any spark?

could be that the High Voltage wire fron the DSI Board to the Oven Spark Ignitor is deteriorated ...
by the way, has the Oven been Self-Cleaned lately ?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

could be that the High Voltage wire fron the DSI Board to the Oven Spark Ignitor is deteriorated ...
by the way, has the Oven been Self-Cleaned lately ?

Adding more emotes is one the things I'm slated to work on tonight.

[MVP82]

@RegUS no it has not Been self cleaned lately.

@Samurai at this time, I'm being lead to believe that the unit I have has the revised bake burners as my research earlier in the day provided me with photographs of the original bake burner and the revised unit with more holes and my unit had the bake burner that was depicted as the revised bake burner. I wish I had a DVOM this would make my life alot easier. I have the spark board sitting infrint of me right now. It appears visually to be in working order. I know that means little to nothing though.

[RegUS_PatOff]

although you wouldn't be able to test much on the Board
but if either Coil inside the Gas Safety Valve is "open", neither one will work

.... It appears visually to be in working order. I know that means little to nothing though..

[MVP82]

Thanks for the link. Any photographs of the gas safety valve?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Typical valve set is shown in this photo, mouse over it for annotations==> http://flic.kr/p/44tp6B

That's for a Maytag range with hot surface ignition; yours will be similar but not exact.

[RegUS_PatOff]

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1159151

 

gas Safety Valve # 15
bottom of diagram
 

[MVP82]

How much resistance should I see across the coils?

[RegUS_PatOff]

about 216 OHMs across each Coil

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Let's try the grounding fix since that's easy and proper grounding is absotootly crucial for these units. Take a 8 inch piece of wire (green In color). Put one end on the spark module mounting screw. The other end goes in a dark place were no one ventures. Not really. It will need to go on the unit ground such as the rear panel.