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LG Tromm Electric Dryer DLE7177WM


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69 replies to this topic

#1 allowingtoo

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 02:34 PM

My LG Dryer isn't broken YET so I'd like to fix it before it goes out completely. When I dry a load of clothes on the HEAVY DUTY - VERY DRY mode they used to get dry completely, now they don't. The last time I opened the door to check on them, I couldn't restart the machine until it cooled off again. This has happened a couple of times now. Thank you.

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#2 john63

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 02:57 PM

<<<When I dry a load of clothes on the HEAVY DUTY - VERY DRY mode they used to get dry completely, now they don't.>>>

********

Most likely caused by a *restricted* exhaust vent system. Check the exhaust venting from the rear of the dryer to the outside vent hood.

If the venting is *in the wall* of the home---contacting a professional vent cleaning company becomes necessary especially for vents longer than 8 feet.

Another thing to be aware of---the owner manual recommends NOT using *fabric softener sheets*.

Fabric softener sheets contain *wax*. The wax coats the Moisture Sensor that "senses" when laundry is near-dry.
Wax build-up reduces the accuracy of the Moisture Sensor (laundry too damp at end of cycle).

Some consumers WANT to use fabric softener sheets.

To maintain Moisture Sensor accuracy---clean the 2 silver bars on the drum-side of the lint filter housing with a SCOTCHBRITE PAD. Scrub the Moisture Sensor back-and-forth to remove the wax accumulation AFTER EVERY LOAD that a fabric softener sheet was used.

For those using ONLY liquid fabric softener in the washer (no sheets in dryer)---clean the dryer Moisture Sensor once-a-month with the SCOTCHBRITE PAD. Liquid fabric softener also contains wax. The rate-of-transfer of the wax accumulation from the washer (laundry) to the dryer Moisture Sensor is *slower*.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 allowingtoo

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 03:04 PM

It's almost straight vented but I will check - thanks. I don't use dryer sheets but liquid. I didn't know that about cleaning the silver bars - I will do that now and report back.

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#4 john63

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 03:12 PM

<<It's almost straight vented>>

********

This can be a problem too <sigh>. Never a dull moment.

In many dryers---if the exhaust vent is straight & short---this causes *too little* backpressure in the dryer venting.

This results in the same *poor drying* complaints as with a partially blocked vent.

The remedy is simple.

Make a *90 degree turn* on the vent behind the dryer (avoid straight/short venting).
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 allowingtoo

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 03:41 PM

Sorry - I wasn't clear. It's been this way for 2 years. Ok - I had a look. The outside looked normal, the usual buildup. I cleared that and took my dryer cleaner thing and poked it as far as it would go and did get a little out. I went inside and had a look to refresh my mind on how it was vented to see if I could pull it away from the wall and clean it out myself. Just as I thought, the Washing Machine has to come out first because the Dryer has one of those hard box venting systems and the Dryer has to be slid away from the wall horizontally in order to access the vent. So it is 90* MOL - not straight line but as safe as I could make it because I am VERY paranoid about dryer lint build up and I clean mine fairly regularly. I even bought the little do-dads to access down in the dryer vent section with my vacuum cleaner. It is possible though that is has built up inside the dryer vent box (which I can't see) since the lint outside felt sort of stiff with - as you said - softener build up.

I buy all my appliance parts right here with a one-year return policy! 


#6 john63

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 04:12 PM

<<<It is possible though that is has built up inside the dryer vent box (which I can't see)>>>

**********

Slim to none. With a reasonably short & largely straight *home* vent---the interior of the dryer will have less lint accumulation than a home with an abnormal length dryer vent or more than (2) 90 degree turns.

Now's the time to clean the Moisture Sensor & try a load...
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 allowingtoo

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 05:28 PM

SIGH. Well it wasn't the easy fix. The Silver Bars.

What I DO SEE however is a LOT of condensation i.e. moisture buildup BEHIND the two Big Blue buttons where they are lit up - ON and START. Oh My. You can actually see water droplets on the buttons.

Edited by allowingtoo, 05 December 2010 - 05:30 PM.

I buy all my appliance parts right here with a one-year return policy! 


#8 john63

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 05:36 PM

How positive do you feel that the *home* vent system is 100% clear/unobstructed?

What would be the best estimate of the total length of the vent---from the back of the dryer to the outside vent hood?

Your description of condensation on the control panel buttons would indicate a vent-related blockage.

Have you tried running the dryer *without* the rear vent connected?

Edited by john63, 05 December 2010 - 05:37 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 allowingtoo

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 05:52 PM

How positive do you feel that the *home* vent system is 100% clear/unobstructed?

What would be the best estimate of the total length of the vent---from the back of the dryer to the outside vent hood?

Your description of condensation on the control panel buttons would indicate a vent-related blockage.

Have you tried running the dryer *without* the rear vent connected?


Well nothing is 100%. The length of the vent is about a foot long and it is on the side of the dryer going directly to the wall outside. I guess something could be in it. This only happened about a week ago so no - I haven't tried anything yet. Other than posting here and cleaning the silver bars. Well, I did vacuum the lint filter area again last week but that didn't help.

I buy all my appliance parts right here with a one-year return policy! 


#10 john63

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 05:55 PM

It's not uncommon to find a bird nest in the dryer vent...
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#11 john63

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 06:36 PM

Another simple test:

Disconnect the dryer vent behind the dryer.

Start the dryer & feel the air flow from the dryer outlet.

Reconnect the dryer vent.

Start the dryer again. The air flow at the outside vent hood should be identical (especially if vent length is extremely short).
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 allowingtoo

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 06:55 PM

Oh great. Now I've got a wet load of clothes in the dryer and even though the dryer is cool, since the last load of clothes dried - it refuses to turn on. I push the ON button and it says CHECK LINT FILTER and it is stuck in the default on time of whatever setting I choose. Of course the lint filter is clean.

I buy all my appliance parts right here with a one-year return policy! 


#13 john63

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 07:14 PM

<<<since the last load of clothes dried - it refuses to turn on.>>>

*********

If the TEMPERATURE THERMOSTAT on the BLOWER HOUSING "opens" from an overheat condition,this will shut down the dryer until it **resets**.

*********

<<<I push the ON button and it says CHECK LINT FILTER>>>

*********

This is just a *reminder indicator light*. It is intended to get your attention to check the lint filter before starting the dryer. The lint filter housing has NO sensor of any type for monitoring lint build-up or accumulation.

*********

<<<it refuses to turn on>>>

*********

Check that the WALL OUTLET has 220 volts (volt/ohmmeter) to rule that out.


The MAIN BOARD may be at fault.
Can also be a broken belt.

Broken wire (anywhere).

Burnt wire at the plug TERMINAL BLOCK connection.

Loose plug at the MOTOR.

Edited by john63, 18 December 2010 - 10:40 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#14 kdog

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 07:20 PM

http://www.repaircli...umber=DLE7177WM

 

00672420.jpg


Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#15 allowingtoo

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 08:37 PM

Oh great it's got a 2 wrench rating - I'm looking at the service manual, now where the heck is it? And how do you get to it?

(I really had to bite my tongue on that one)

Edited by allowingtoo, 05 December 2010 - 08:40 PM.

I buy all my appliance parts right here with a one-year return policy! 


#16 john63

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 08:45 PM

<laugh>

I get the feeling that you're an optimist.

The THERMAL LIMITER (called a thermostat in parts look-up) is located on the side of the HEATING ELEMENT HOUSING.

Of the two thermostats on the housing----this one is mounted at the *CENTER* of the heater housing.

LG recommends replacing BOTH.


DECEMBER 18,2010:

NOTICE!
NOTICE!
NOTICE!

For those reading this thread---IGNORE this post!!!!
The above information is ONLY valid for LG **GAS** DRYERS & NOT electric models!!!

A failed THERMAL LIMITER will **shut-down** a GAS LG dryer completely.

On electric LG dryers---the unit will **run** but will not heat.

My apologies for any confusion...

Edited by john63, 18 December 2010 - 10:46 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#17 allowingtoo

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Posted 05 December 2010 - 10:21 PM

I see 3 thermostats mentioned. 2 K's and an F. The K's do not look like a two wrencher. None of them look like the above picture. I am Googling my heart out to try to find the Heating Element Housing and it only brings me back here.

The kitchen forum was much more helpful - I replaced the solenoid to the ice maker on my GE refrigerator with their step by step instructions. Sorry, don't mean to mean to be mean - I was just hoping for a little more help. My husband doesn't do home repairs at all unless it cutting down a tree or painting. If it's computer related or electrical it's left up to me to fix. He's left brain, I'm right brain - between the two of us....well... :)

I buy all my appliance parts right here with a one-year return policy! 


#18 john63

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Posted 06 December 2010 - 01:12 AM

<<<The kitchen forum was much more helpful>>>

*****

<gasp!> Heavens To Betsy! What a Dreadful Critique!

*****

<<<Sorry, don't mean to mean to be mean - I was just hoping for a little more help.>>>

*****

Gott Ein Himmel! Well, ye of little faith, let's grab our "phillips" screwdriver and volt-ohmmeter...

1) Unplug the dryer.

2) Remove 3 "phillips" screws from the TOP COVER of the dryer. These screws are at the rear of the top cover.

3) Slide the top cover rearward about an inch & lift-off.

4) Open the DOOR of the dryer & remove 2 screws under the *opening*. Roughly located at the 5 and 7 O'clock locations.

5) Standing in front of the dryer & looking behind the control panel---unplug all wire connections to the MAIN BOARD.

6) Now remove the screws from the *corners* of the CONTROL PANEL (Note: Some dryers only have one screw on the right side

7) Grasp the top of the CONTROL PANEL & forcefully "peel" the panel off (This plastic is tough).

8) With the CONTROL PANEL removed---you'll notice 4 screws that secure the FRONT COVER. Remove those & slowly tilt the FRONT COVER towards you---disconnect the DOOR SWITCH PLUG. Set aside the front cover. Step back & look at the front of the dryer. On the lower right side is a *white* plug. Squeeze the tab on this plug & pull apart to disconnect. This is the plug for the MOISTURE SENSOR. (During re-assembly---don't forget this little guy).

9) Grab a FELT-TIP MARKER & place a *dot* next to the 2 screws on the front of the *silver* bracket that the CONTROL PANEL *snaps* onto. Then remove the 2 screws. Remove the other 2 screws at the top of the *silver* bracket and remove the silver bracket by pulling upward.

10) Remove 4 screws at each corner (or ear) of the FRONT DRUM SUPPORT ASSY.

11) Pull the SUPPORT ASSY upward & towards you--set aside.

12) Grab the DRUM & rotate counterclockwise while pulling towards you. The belt will slip off. Remove the DRUM.

13) You'll see a silver/square box on the right-hand side. Pull off the wires to the THERMAL LIMITER & test it for *continuity* with the test meter. If "open"---replace the THERMAL LIMITER and the other THERMOSTAT next to it.

14) If the THERMAL LIMITER has failed---the home exhaust vent *must* be cleaned. 100%.

15) Use a shop vac to clean everything up.

Re-assemble in reverse order.

Edited by john63, 06 December 2010 - 01:43 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#19 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 December 2010 - 01:12 AM

if over-heated, the (auto-reset) K560 would stop the Motor

but first, check your Vents again

Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.

With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat,
the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F




 


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#20 allowingtoo

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Posted 06 December 2010 - 04:49 PM

Thank you John. I didn't mean to make you Mein Gott. Or whatever the case may be. That seems pretty straight forward but waaay more that two wrenches still. Who gave that rating?? They must have been on a two six pack or something.

Geez - I pulled the dryer out and I found out why the problem occurred. I guess I was lucky. Somehow in moving the dryer in and out - the vent got disconnected - both pieces!! The inner vent tube inside the dryer was just loose when I went to move it - or it came loose. The other rigid piece going connecting to the outside wall did have a little buildup in it but not much. There is a LOT of lint INSIDE the dryer so it will all have to be vacuumed out.

I guess I was lucky the dryer didn't catch on fire or something. And I thought I was so careful about installing - yes - the proper Rigid vent pipe and vacuuming the filter section. Just goes to show you.

Thank you for your kind explanation. I will report back on my success.

I buy all my appliance parts right here with a one-year return policy! 







Recent blog entries on this topic

Photo

Disassembling an LG Tromm Electric Dryer DLE7177WM

By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 06 March 2011 - 11:19 PM




Gott Ein Himmel! Well, ye of little faith, let's grab our "phillips" screwdriver and volt-ohmmeter...

1) Unplug the dryer.

2) Remove 3 "phillips" screws from the TOP COVER of the dryer. These screws...

Read Full Entry →

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