Sounds as if it is awaiting input from the door switch
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LG Tromm Electric Dryer DLE7177WM
Started by allowingtoo, Dec 05 2010 02:34 PM
69 replies to this topic
#41
kdog
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Posted 18 December 2010 - 04:18 PM
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#42
allowingtoo
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Yamabushi
Posted 18 December 2010 - 06:13 PM
That means - what? Change the door switch? Use a meter to check the voltage? Page 15? I'm going to have to hire that out - I have no idea how to use a voltage meter!
I keep thinking I should go sign up for a class at the local Vo Tech for Electrician. I'd love to learn how to wire stuff up for real. My dad did that for a living - I wish I had gotten him to teach me before he died.
I keep thinking I should go sign up for a class at the local Vo Tech for Electrician. I'd love to learn how to wire stuff up for real. My dad did that for a living - I wish I had gotten him to teach me before he died.
#43
john63
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Posted 18 December 2010 - 11:02 PM
Regus & Kdog were on the "ball" here.
I made an error in describing how the THERMAL LIMITER functions in your **electric** dryer.
The electric model LG dryers will CONTINUE to run if the THERMAL LIMITER on the Heater Housing has failed.
The THERMOSTAT on the Blower Housing acts as a "self-resetting" Thermal Limiter for BOTH *gas* AND *electric* LG dryers.
If the THERMAL LIMITER on the Heater Housing fails (on 220v electric models) the dryer will be able to "run" but will not heat.
**********************************
On GAS model LG Dryers---a failed the THERMAL LIMITER on the Heater Housing will **shut-down** the dryer completely.
**********************************
Back to your dryer....
Judging from the amount of lint accumulation inside the dryer---this indicates that the venting was very poor indeed.
The MOTOR has *most likely* failed due to extended run times needed to dry laundry and from high-heat exposure caused by poor venting and heavy lint accumulation on the motor.
The inside of the dryer was an "oven" for a l-o-n-g time.
The MOTOR *overload protector* began to shut down the dryer as it became too hot during the cycle.
I made an error in describing how the THERMAL LIMITER functions in your **electric** dryer.
The electric model LG dryers will CONTINUE to run if the THERMAL LIMITER on the Heater Housing has failed.
The THERMOSTAT on the Blower Housing acts as a "self-resetting" Thermal Limiter for BOTH *gas* AND *electric* LG dryers.
If the THERMAL LIMITER on the Heater Housing fails (on 220v electric models) the dryer will be able to "run" but will not heat.
**********************************
On GAS model LG Dryers---a failed the THERMAL LIMITER on the Heater Housing will **shut-down** the dryer completely.
**********************************
Back to your dryer....
Judging from the amount of lint accumulation inside the dryer---this indicates that the venting was very poor indeed.
The MOTOR has *most likely* failed due to extended run times needed to dry laundry and from high-heat exposure caused by poor venting and heavy lint accumulation on the motor.
The inside of the dryer was an "oven" for a l-o-n-g time.
The MOTOR *overload protector* began to shut down the dryer as it became too hot during the cycle.
Edited by john63, 19 December 2010 - 12:30 AM.
To eliminate:
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
#44
allowingtoo
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Yamabushi
Posted 19 December 2010 - 08:49 AM
Mein Gott!
#45
john63
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Sensei
Posted 19 December 2010 - 11:22 AM
Touche!
To eliminate:
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
#46
allowingtoo
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- Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Yamabushi
Posted 19 December 2010 - 11:59 AM
So I'm sitting at the Local Laundromat last night and I decided I want one of those babies. Extra Large. One where I threw in 3 loads of heavy winter clothes in - sweat shirts and pants, jeans, towels, sheets and everything - and it all dried in 20 minutes. Unbelievable. I can put it in my garage, can't I? 
Edited by allowingtoo, 19 December 2010 - 12:00 PM.
#47
kdog
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Posted 19 December 2010 - 03:32 PM
Yep, you can get 'em - I've seen lots of folks install commercial type machines in their home; bring a very well oiled chequebook when you go shopping though, and expect ALOT of added installation expenses
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com
For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship
#48
allowingtoo
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Yamabushi
Posted 22 December 2010 - 01:54 PM
OK, I have an engineer that lives next door and he knows how to use one of those voltage meters. How does he check the motor - is it directly to the motor? Or is it through the control board? I assume the motor has to still be hooked up to the dryer to check it out, right? Otherwise, I'll just take it out and take it over to his house.
#49
RegUS_PatOff
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- Grand Master Funk
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Sensei
- Location: USA
- Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White
Posted 22 December 2010 - 02:30 PM
"Check Filter" is just a reminder before every Dryer CycleIf you just push the ON Button it says CHECK FILTER.
To test the Motor, use the wiring diagram/diagnostics in the service manual
.
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
#50
allowingtoo
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Yamabushi
Posted 09 January 2011 - 11:26 AM
Is there any way to check the control panel / board to see if it is bad?
#51
RegUS_PatOff
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Sensei
- Location: USA
- Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White
Posted 09 January 2011 - 02:07 PM
looking at the Wiring Diagram, when the Dryer should be running, if there's 120v across Controller connector BL2 pins 1 & 2, then the Controller is OK.
.
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
#52
allowingtoo
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Yamabushi
Posted 09 January 2011 - 03:16 PM
thanks.
we took it all apart again, checked the motor - which was OK, put it back together, and the dryer mysteriously fixed itself. Go figure.
we took it all apart again, checked the motor - which was OK, put it back together, and the dryer mysteriously fixed itself. Go figure.
#53
allowingtoo
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Yamabushi
Posted 18 January 2011 - 01:45 PM
I swear - this is the dryer from Hades.
Is there a picture somewhere on how the dryer belt goes on? I'm still not sure that it's on right. It seems like it's turning slower than it used to. Both belts go under the big wheel and then separate to go around the drum?
Is there a picture somewhere on how the dryer belt goes on? I'm still not sure that it's on right. It seems like it's turning slower than it used to. Both belts go under the big wheel and then separate to go around the drum?
#54
RegUS_PatOff
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- Grand Master Funk
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Sensei
- Location: USA
- Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White
Posted 18 January 2011 - 03:17 PM
from DLE7177 Service Manual
.
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
#55
allowingtoo
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- Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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Yamabushi
Posted 18 January 2011 - 05:50 PM
Yes, that's the picture we had to go by. It makes no sense in the real world.
The only way we could get the belt to fit is for both of the belts to go under the wheel on the left. And then they separate - to go around the drum.
But I was just drying a load of clothes and the drum stopped. So something is clearly not right.
The only way we could get the belt to fit is for both of the belts to go under the wheel on the left. And then they separate - to go around the drum.
But I was just drying a load of clothes and the drum stopped. So something is clearly not right.
#56
RegUS_PatOff
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- Grand Master Funk
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- 30,261 posts
Sensei
- Location: USA
- Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White
Posted 18 January 2011 - 07:31 PM
the picture may be a liitle confusing
The portion of the belt that is on the top of the Motor goes around the pulley, and continues to the right around the Drum.
The portion of the Belt on the bottom of the Motor goes directly to the left around the Drum
The portion of the belt that is on the top of the Motor goes around the pulley, and continues to the right around the Drum.
The portion of the Belt on the bottom of the Motor goes directly to the left around the Drum
.
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”
every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962
RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw
#57
john63
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- Academy Fellow
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Sensei
Posted 18 January 2011 - 10:16 PM
<<<I was just drying a load of clothes and the drum stopped.>>>
**********
The BELT may need to be checked to verify correct installation.
Also verify that the BELT remains in the groove of the MOTOR PULLEY as well.
Possible failing MOTOR (overheats & cuts-out).
**********
The BELT may need to be checked to verify correct installation.
Also verify that the BELT remains in the groove of the MOTOR PULLEY as well.
Possible failing MOTOR (overheats & cuts-out).
Edited by john63, 29 January 2011 - 11:29 AM.
To eliminate:
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
#58
allowingtoo
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- Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
-
- 85 posts
Yamabushi
#59
allowingtoo
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- Merit Apprentice Appliantologist
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- 85 posts
Yamabushi
Posted 21 January 2011 - 03:34 PM
And no, I don't know what it is. I just pulled the dryer apart and saw it.
#60
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Your Sometimes-Lucid Host
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Posted 21 January 2011 - 03:40 PM
Looks like belt shavings, probably from the belt not being installed correctly resulting in the motor pulley spinning at a higher angular velocity than the belt itself. New belt time, comes with a 365 day warranty, even if you install it wrong==> http://www.repaircli...umber=DLE7177WM
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Recent blog entries on this topic
Disassembling an LG Tromm Electric Dryer DLE7177WM
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1) Unplug the dryer.
2) Remove 3 "phillips" screws from the TOP COVER of the dryer. These screws...
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