17 replies to this topic

[namahs]

Just shortly after 1 year, our LG front loading washing machine broke. It is giving us a "tE" error code which makes the machine inoperable. I read a couple of other threads about this "tE" code and it all points to a bad thermistor. We actually tried calling a couple of LG authorized tech and no luck. They claim they know how to fix the machine, charge us a high consultation fee and then don't call us back, ARGH!. We are expecting a baby in a few weeks so I am tired of all this excuses from the technician and would like to take matters in my own hands. I have no other choice.

Does anyone know where I can find the thermistor part for the LG WM2301HW? and a place where I can get the manual to open the machine up? Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

[KurtiusInterupptus]

The resident LG specialist, John63, will help you with this as soon as he sees this...fear not

[RegUS_PatOff]

ThermistorIt's mounted to the Heater near the terminals
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1377871

 

May be just a bad connection, but to access the Heater / Thermistor, you must remove the Cabinet Top (2 Screws),
and the Cabinet Front, which involves using a special tool ($25) to remove the Door Gasket Clamp.
There may be another way, when the LG master responds to this thread.
For manuals and lots of other goodies,
become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/

[namahs]

I read in other forums that to access the thermistor, you can just flip the washing machine to its back? does that damage the washing machine in any way?

I just signed up for apprentice. Guess I will just wait for the LG master to respond. Thanks

[RegUS_PatOff]

I read in other forums that to access the thermistor, you can just flip the washing machine to its back?

you may be able to, but to flip the Washer onto it's Back,
it may be best to re-insert the Shipping Bolts

[denrayr]

i dont suggest flipping the washer on its back. You risk damaging the suspension components; however, you could tilt the washer against the wall and reach in from underneath. there wont be a lot of room to work with, so i recommend removing the front panel like regus suggested. Every time ive run across a tE failure ive found the wiring broken at the quick connect plug. The simplest fix is to cut out the plug and hard wire the thermistor to the harness.

[john63]

The "tE" error is triggered when the MAIN BOARD fails to receive signal input from the THERMISTOR.

On the LG WM2301HW washer---the THERMISTOR is part of the HEATING ELEMENT (not available as a separate part).

Older LG washers had the THERMISTOR mounted through a black rubber seal in the tub assy.




On some washers---the wire at the THERMISTOR is broken. This is located at the front/bottom of the washer tub assy.

Access to the THERMISTOR is best done with the front cover of the washer removed. This allows unfettered access to the THERMISTOR and to repair wiring--if needed.

The wiring can be **hard wired** if necessary (cut the plug off & splice wires only).

On others---the plug connections behind the Control Panel may need a tiny amount of DIELECTRIC GREASE to improve the connections.

If the THERMISTOR *plug* is good & the wiring is not damaged---add Dielectric grease to this plug as well.

THERMISTORS **rarely** fail.

The new *Heating Element/Thermistor Assy* part number is: AEG33121501

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<<<We actually tried calling a couple of LG authorized tech and no luck. They claim they know how to fix the machine, charge us a high consultation fee and then don't call us back, ARGH!.>>>

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That's pitiful.

***************

Regus wrote:

<<<to access the Heater / Thermistor, you must remove the Cabinet Top (2 Screws),
and the Cabinet Front, which involves using a special tool ($25) to remove the Door Gasket Clamp.>>>

*****************

That's correct. Getting the OUTER Door Gasket Clamp *off* is not terribly difficult but it's more of a chore to re-install. The special-tool pliers--makes this effortless.

Edited by john63, 11 January 2011 - 08:49 PM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

John, is there service manual for the WM2301 ?
the closest one I have may be the WM2677

[john63]

I have a "paper" manual for this model.

However...

The instructions required for gaining access to the front tub of the washer are largely identical for all LG washers dating back to 2003. Most any available manual for the LG washers that have the CONTROL PANEL at the front of the washer will be sufficient.

Some models--as you know--have a *rear* CONTROL PANEL. These instruction are somewhat different & shouldn't be used.

[RegUS_PatOff]

similar WM2277 Service Manual
link PM'd

[namahs]

Thanks, I'll order the heating element part and the clamp. So frustrated at this entire process, I can't wait to rip this thing open

[namahs]

one last question, I'm a noob when it comes to electrical wiring. If the machine has been unplug for over a day, would there be any charge left? I don't want to get shocked

[KurtiusInterupptus]

No charge is being "held" on the thermistor wires...but be sure to leave it unplugged during repair

[RegUS_PatOff]

Thanks, I'll order the heating element part and the clamp. So frustrated at this entire process, I can't wait to rip this thing open

as mentioned above, the Thermistor rarely fails.
It's the wires / connections that go bad.
you won't need the Clamp, but you'll need the special tool to remove / install the Clamp
383EER4001A
http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1268535

 

[namahs]

I attempted to open up the washing machine tonight and it was definitely a learning experience. I don't see any loose or disconnected wire that is part of the thermistor/heating element (assuming I looked at the right places). I tried to take out the heating element but it seem to be stuck with the tub. Any idea how I can yank it out? On the manual it just says to pull it out but it is really not that easy and I am afraid that I might break it. Any ideas?

Picture of the heating element


Is this the main control panel that I should look to see if theres any disconnect from the heating element?.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edited by namahs, 21 January 2011 - 12:09 AM.

[john63]

Tug on the BLUE & WHITE wires to verify that it's not damaged.

Ohm the THERMISTOR to verify within specs.

The HEATER can be ohm'd or a continuity test done to verify if "good".

Removing the HEATER isn't necessary but if desired---pry it out with a flat-blade screwdriver.
The HEATER is mounted in the same manner as a rubber Freeze Plug would be on an engine block. When the 10mm nut is tightened---this causes the rubber seal to expand within the hole in the tub.

I'd skip the MAIN BOARD for now.

Go to the front CONTROL PANEL. Behind it--at the center--are 2 to 3 disconnect plugs. Pull these plugs apart & add a dab of dielectric grease and reconnect.

Edited by john63, 21 January 2011 - 01:53 AM.

[namahs]

Sorry to sound dumb but where is the front control panel? do you have a picture of one so I can locate it on my machine? My brain has not been working for the past week, awaiting arrival of baby.

[john63]

The front control panel is the at the top of the washer.

The large cycle selector knob is at the center.

Behind this knob---on the opposite side---there are at least 2 small plugs.

Disconnect the plugs--add dielectric grease (a very small amount) and reconnect.

This should also be done at the THERMISTOR plug.