Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

ClayC

Kenmore ice maker not working, need opinion on my findings

28 posts in this topic

My Kenmore (whirlpool) ice maker quite working a couple of days ago.

I followed the 'icemaker faq' troubleshooting flow chart, which points me to the control module needing to be replace.

but, being an "over acheiver" ;) I also have the whirlpool icemaker manual I downloaded from here a few years ago when I had my first issue. One thing it tells you to check is the voltage across "L" and "N" test ports, which should be 120 volts. I did and only got like 10 or 11 volts.

with the icemaker out, I checked the wiring harness where it unplugs from the unit and got the same voltage. I was expecting to at least have the 120 volts there.

so now Im worried that my incoming voltage to the icemaker is my issue and not the control module.

Thoughts??

Thanks,

Clay

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

... now Im worried that my incoming voltage to the icemaker is my issue and not the control module. .

Fridge model number ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Woops! sorry

Kenmore Coldspot

MN: 106.51564104

SN: SP0750xxx

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Which Control Board (part number) did you replace ?

Which IceMaker manual do you have (part number)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

manual pn 4316835

I replaced control module W10122536 a couple of years ago. worked fine until 2 days ago.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

with the LED's ?

try this service manual

WPICE MAKER_Indoor_IM

R-92 4322658A

link PM'd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent, thank you very much!!

Ok, I did checked the optics as per the manual, and they check out fine.

Next I did the component diagnosis like the manual said, basically jumpering T and H, and again nothing happens at all. So does it look like that module needs to be replaced?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IceMaker power comes from the Receiver Board..

check power in/out there

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well I must not have had a good connection before, ie probes to deep into the test ports.

I pulled the receiver board, and had 115/120 volts there. Checked at the connection to the icemaker and voltage good there. Checked at the motor module, low voltage again. Pulled the module off, didnt' have good connection because probes were in to far, so I adjusted and went again. Good voltage at motor module now. Plugged in jumper on H & T ports, voltage at L & N ports drops to zero. So look like I've got a short in the motor circuit.

Do you agree?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OR another bad connection...

Check resistance of Motor

should be about 4400 OHMs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Motor measures 9,470 ohms. Thats a bit high. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

but it's not shorted ...

may have a bad connection to the / or the power source

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

true, thats possible. Ill try to hook it up to a powersupply @ work tomorow and see what I get.

as a side note, when I said I had a connection issue, I'm talking about a connection with my volt meter. I had the probes shoved into the test ports way to far and the plastic insulator was making contact with the strip on the inside, not the metal probe. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

remember that you have to have the flapper and door switch closed for the ice maker to cycle as well as unplugging the frige and plugging it back in...board has a 40 min. delay built in. killing the power for a second resets the board.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes sir. I did all of that according to the manual. Multiple times in fact, all with the same result.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well I am now more confused than ever, I think. ;)

Took the ice-maker to work today, pulled the motor and hooked it up to 120V power supply. It seemed to turn OK. I have no clue what 'correct' is in this case, but it felt right.

So I had a couple of electrical guys go over the motor module with me. When measuring the resistance across different connections, we found the contacts that open/close with the large lever had a lot of resistance compared to everything else. So when I got home I polished the contacts with some emery cloth, put it back together and tried again.

Nothing.

So I pulled the motor off, turned the big gear a bit to try it in a different spot, and again nothing. Making sure to flip the main power off, then back on, before trying again.

So now I started to check other things. Checked the incoming voltage through the test ports and all was well. Tested ohms across the element, check, and the motor, and I think at that moment the motor started turning (I had the H & T leads jumped). Awesome! I thought I was back in business, though maybe only temporary. So I slid the tray back into place to watch. When the arm got to the bottom of the ice cube tray, it stopped, and that was it! :(

So I went to checking things. I didnt have any voltage across L & N. This has me worried so I pulled the ice-maker out, and checked voltage at the pigtail that connects to the ice-maker. Ive got 58 VAC a couple of places, and 30 odd VAC on one other. Weird, I don't think Ive seen that before. Pulled the receiver and checked it, Ive got 120 volts on the board a couple places, and then the same 58 volts on a wire or two. I plugged the ice-maker back in and pulled the motor module out to check the contacts @ the ice-maker. Same 58 VAC on a couple pins, 30 something on another. NO 120 VAC going to the ice-maker.

Heater ohms were good.

CORRECTION: Motor resistance still 9400 ohms. My small Fluke meter only goes to 1K ohms, so I had to get my other meter back out.

I shut the power off to the fridge, and tested the voltage everywhere again, with the same results.

So what do you think now? Im not sure if I made anything better, and Im thinking its probably now worse.

Thanks for all the help so far, and any you guys can provide further.

Clay

Edited by ClayC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oh yes, and the optics still pass their test as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone??

Otherwise Ive got two options:

1) call repair guy

2) shotgun some parts at it ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

with no load on the optics board it will give stray voltage readings. I find the best way to test this system is to bypass the optics board and see if the icemaker functions. if it does then the optics board is bad, if it doesnt the icemaker is bad. to bypass the optics board remove the board on the right side of the freezer liner. Disconnect the wiring from the board and jumper the two like colored wires in the middle of the harness. If the icemaker has been in the freezer for a while and is frozen you wont have to jumper T to H on the module since the thermostat should be closed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent!! Thank you for the guidance sir!!

I jumpered the two wires mentioned, and the ice-maker functions as it should. Extractor turns and heater warms up!!

One concern is that I let the ice-maker run a complete cycle or two, and it never dispensed any water. Should it have? Im running down the wiring diagram right now, so Ill figure it out eventually.

Funny that the optics check out, which I guess they could, but another component on that board must be shot.

Thanks to everyone for the help! It is much appreciated!!

Clay

Edited by ClayC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you would think water would have come in if it ran a complete cycle..be sure to check the tube in the top of the freezer that the water comes out of..they are bad about freezing up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Switch the wires at the water valve, so you can activate the icemaker valve with the front water dispenser. If it works this way you know its a bad icemaker, if not either the valve is bad or the line is blocked. If this is the case remove the icemaker line from the valve and try again to isolate the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well, Im stumped again!

I swapped both wires at the water valve. Using some spade clips and a jumper I was able to swap both sets. I tried to activate the ice-maker line with the door water dispenser, and nothing. I started the ice-maker cycle again, hoping that the door water dispenser would turn on, and nothing. Tried it multiple times and check everything multiple times with no joy.

Its almost beginning to sound like I need to replace everything from the water valve to the ice maker, but I know that isn't the case. I guess I need to investigate the water valve some more by swapping water lines around and seeing what I get. Ive never had an issue with the water line to the ice maker freezing up, but I guess there is a first time for everything ;)

Thanks again everyone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

build u a simple cheater cord with 2 spades and operate the water valves one at a time and see what happens..still think something might be frozen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I make a 'suicide cord' today and checked the water valves. I tried the ice maker valve first, and nothing. So I tried the door water valve next just to see what would happen. It works find. I could here the solenoid energize and I got water out of the door dispenser.

So I tried the ice maker valve again. nothing. I couldnt hear anything energize, and I didnt get any water. I left it plugged in and let the ice maker run a cycle with the door open and shut, same thing, no water. Funny thing is when I put the receiver board back in to try it with that board in, everything started working (except the water ;) ) like I jumpered the receiver board out, and it just kept going and going, never did stop.

I think Ive got a bad water valve, and a bad receiver board, but Im only going to replace one at a time.

Thoughts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites