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Kenmore Dryer will not heat


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6 replies to this topic

#1 Donnie

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 01:38 PM

I have a Kenmore Dryer model number 417.84152500. It stopped drying clothes last weekend. The motor runs. The drum turns. The blower is circulating air. The vent is clear and functioning. But whether it is in regular timed mode or sensing mode the heating element does not heat.

I read some posts that lead me to decide to order a thermistor and change it out first. Mainly because it was cheap and easiest thing to replace. I do not have a Ohm meter or anything to test with.

The error codes flashed 95 and 62. The test sequence did not reveal anything earth shattering other than the thermistor temp is 34. (Which makes sense because the dryer is in an unheated outside utility room and it is colder than a well diggers a$$ right now.)

I don't have a lot of money (read: ANY) to waste on a repair call or parts that I can't return. (Sears quoted a $129 labor charge and I can buy a used dryer for way less than that.)

Any ideas? Please hurry. Running out of clean drawers!!!!!

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#2 Tuco

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 02:58 PM

Any meter from $9.95 to $25.00 will work fine for our purposes. Better yet borrow one.


Then you can check those themostates (OHM's) and purchase what you need.

Can also check your outlet for 220v(AC volts) at the outlet and trace it( red, and a black power wires) into the dryer if if needed. Your dryer motor can run on 110v(AC volts)( you have a problem),...220v(AC volts) is needed to heat.

#3 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 03:52 PM

In other words turn your circuit breaker off and on...maybe half tripped
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#4 Donnie

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 03:58 PM

I checked the breaker and it was not tripped.

#5 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 04:30 PM

then you should proceed with240 VAC verification at the terminal block where the cord connects to the dryer. There will be 3 terminals...outside to outside you should be reading 240 VAC. If you have that then its time to tear into the dryer. Remove the top , lower bottom front panel, followed by the front. At this point you can release the belt from the idler pulley from the front or through the back (small access panel) I recommend the back so you can see how the belt is routed. Once the belt is loose its time to remove the drum by lifting the back of the drum up a couple inches and pulling forward. Once removed you will be able to see the heating element. you will probably find the element broken. post back and let us know.
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#6 pigbee

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 05:47 PM

there are quite a few possibilities but you will need a multimeter to test the components in question. must I mention safety because your dealing with electricity.I looked over your wiring diagram and the following are possibilities:

thermal cutout- usually near element
motor switch-controls one side of heat circuit

safety thermostat
heating element
electronic control- there is a heat relay mounted on the electronic board
thermistor
broken wire or bad connection
220v supply- check it, be sure

of course certain items should be checked 1st like the supply voltage then I would check the thermal cut-out and element and everthing else if necessary while the dryer is apart.

this is not a difficult job for an appliance technician but if you know what to do with a meter have a basic understanding of electricity and a copy of a service manual you can repair it yourself. 1 other suggestion is that if you have a local appliance parts company near many of them will check some of these parts for you or give advice.

good luck

Edited by pigbee, 22 January 2011 - 10:32 PM.


#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 08:11 PM


The error codes flashed 95 and 62.
are you sure about thsoe codes ?
and how did you arrive at those numbers ?

1st digit > set of (5) lights flash =
2nd digit > total number of Start light flashes (including during the 5 lights flashing) [size="4"]=

 
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