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Westinghouse Gas Dryer DG400K - No Heat


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6 replies to this topic

#1 frogeye

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 08:54 PM

Hi everyone,
first of all please accept my apologies for operating ancient equipment. This dryer hadn't been used much when I bought it used a few years back and it has been working well after I had replaced the coils 2-3 years ago. Back then the gas burner had stopped working and following the forum advice here I picked the coils as being the likely culprit and so it was. Now this weekend the gas burner stopped working again so I concluded quickly that it would be the coils again and since the local supply stores close around noon I quickly picked up a coil kit with the expectations that it would fix the problem. Well, it didn't. I noticed that the igniter is not glowing so I figured that I would swap out and see what happens. With the new igniter installed I still don't see it glowing when the unit is running. All other electrical arts work so the drum is spinning and the blower runs too. The fuse is supposedly turning off the entire until so with the drum running I take it that the fuse is still good. Can anyone confirm? I also read 115V AC on my multimeter at the 2 wires that feed into the coils. There is no gas smell so the valve is keeping shut in lieu of a flame being present.

Any suggestions on what I should try next? What other than the coils and igniter itself would prevent the igniter from glowing? I haven't checked for AC Voltage on the 2 leads feeding the igniter and I also don't understand the function of the flame sensor. Could the sensor prevent the igniter from heating up?


Many thanks for any advice and help. My wife is losing patience and I'm getting close to be forced to take the trip to the appliance store and buy a new dryer.

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 10:09 PM

DG400K c. 1992
I don't have a wiring diagram for that model
(unless you do that you could scan & upload somewhere)

The Thermal Fuse on the Blower Housing may stop the Drum Motor,
but there's another Thermal Fuse at the rear of the Drum on top of the bearing housing that may prevent power to the Ignitor.


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#3 frogeye

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 08:24 AM

Thanks for the quick response, I checked the leads feeding the igniter with the multimeter and get a reading of 38.5 Volt AC. I'm also getting a full 115V read at the 2 wires feeding into the burner unit. I guess that I can rule out the fuse at this point. Does anybody know what the flame sensor exactly controls? Since it being hooked up in parallel to the 2-prong booster coil I am not clear what it exactly does. The 38.5 Volt reading at the igniter wires feels to be somewhat low to me. Any ideas? Thanks again.

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 08:33 AM

Here's what your thermal fuse looks like==> http://www.repaircli...mal-Fuse/642067

Locate it and measure the continuity.

#5 frogeye

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 08:37 AM

Thanks, I'm on my way.... :D

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 09:54 AM

... Does anybody know what the flame sensor exactly controls?

. . . thermal switch that helps power the Ignitor until it gets hot.
It may be bad or have some "lint" in it's contacts.
Do you have a wiring diagram ?
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#7 frogeye

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 10:21 PM

NooB is back with an update. Checked the thermal fuse for continuity with my Multimeter and found it to be intact. Then I saw RegUS_PatOff comment on the function of the flame sensor and it started to click in NooBs head. If flame sensor is controlling power to the igniter then it's thermal switch should be "closed" when cold and "open" once it is exposed to heat. I unmounted the sensor and tested continuity, negative. I felt somewhat encouraged and went back to my new friends at the appliance parts supply house. Came back with a new sensor and measured continuity, positive, Started to feel really good about this and installed the sensors well installed the burner back into the dryer. Opened Gas valve and plugged in the power cord, pressed the start button and immediately saw the igniter starting to glow. A few seconds later the gas valve opened and BANG! It's up and running again.
My takeaway: Even that in most cases the coils are the culprit check the Flame sensor first before spending you money on replacing parts. It's easy to troubleshoot, just check continuity between both of its wire terminals. If it doesn't pass when cold, replace.

I also apologize for not having provided the full model number when opening this thread: Model# DG400KXW-5, Serial Number XD21532175.


Many Thanks for your advice.




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