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GE furnace wont stop running


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10 replies to this topic

#1 johnjohn

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 05:28 PM

A friend has a GE furnace model #BGLD100C2B01 from the 70s that is running constantly. When i say running, I mean the unit stays lit at all times. I pulled the thermostat wires apart and it kept running. I replaced the sequencer and it still had no effect. I have to shut the gas manually and then the fan will kick off when the temp gets to the setting on the temp switch. When the thermostat is lowered or raised i feel the gas valve clicking when it should turn on or off but it has no effect.

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#2 ACtechGUY

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 07:14 PM

Providing that the gas valve is not getting 24 volts while all this is happening, then.............. The gas valve is stuck open. Good thing the fan/limit switch still worked, otherwise you would be writing " I have a friend who USED TO HAVE a house "

The horror of it all.
What is the world coming to when a gas valve that is only 40 years old stops working? Man, things just aren't built to last anymore!Posted Image

Edited by ACtechGUY, 26 January 2011 - 07:15 PM.


#3 johnjohn

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 07:55 PM

so my first order of business is to check the gas valve for voltage when the thermostat has called for it to be off? then if it has no voltage when it should be off, it must be the gas valve? are they rebuildable. It is able to be opened up.

Thanks a ton

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 07:59 PM

. . . The gas valve is stuck open. Good thing the fan/limit switch still worked,

if the Gas Valve was "stuck open" , the the Limit Switches wouldn't have any effect on it... :burnin:
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#5 Dan Webster

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 11:28 AM

The gas valves are no longer rebuild-able. With the furnace running remove a thermostat wire from the gas valve operator solenoid. Be careful not to let the wire short against anything or the thernmostat heat anticipator will be ruined.If she keeps burning you indeed have a stuck gas valve and it will need to be replaced. The gas should cut off quickly. The blower will continue to go until all the heat drops.

Edited by applianceman18007260692, 27 January 2011 - 11:30 AM.

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#6 johnjohn

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 02:24 PM

I found the issue. The rubber stopper in the gas valve is no longer attached to the lifting arm. The rubber which used to be one solid piece that went thru the hole in the arm has broken. Any ideas the suppliers around me told me they had nothing

Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by johnjohn, 27 January 2011 - 02:25 PM.


#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 03:25 PM

any part numbers on the Gas Valve ?
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#8 johnjohn

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 06:52 PM

Heres what i came up with
Posted Image

#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:16 PM

I'd rather replace it than risk a Gas Valve repair ... :burnin:
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#10 johnjohn

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:21 PM

you and i both but couldnt find anythin that would fid without major surgery. Plus this gas valve is actuated by an elecrtomagnet which pulls the plunger up when the t-stat calls for heat. Will i be able to find anything similar?

#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 09:50 PM

any part numbers on the Gas Valve ?


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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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