9 replies to this topic

[wstreer]

Hi
I'm looking for the service manual for a Samsung RS267LASH. I found it in the forum but the link is dead. Can you provide me with a working link

Thanks
Wolf

[RegUS_PatOff]

For manuals and lots of other goodies,
become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/

[wstreer]

Done, I'm an apprentice now. I feel by reading your forum that my fridge has the typical Samsung issues. Freezer works, fridge does not cool enough. The lower "cool select zone" is relatively cold but the remaining area is pretty warm (for a fridge). Any ideas??.
Please provide me with a link to the service manual.
Thanks
Wolfgang

[RegUS_PatOff]

sounds like a Defrost problem,
maybe a bad Defrost Heater (common on Samsung)
sorry it took so long, I'm usually on here often, but was busy today.
I though maybe someone else would have sent you the link...
here ya go.. SAM0074.pdf 14 MB
link PM'd

[wstreer]

No worries. Thanks for your reply on a Saturday night !!
Would you give me a hint how to check out a bad defrost heater? I assume it should either show no amps or high resistance. Furthermore the fan which distributes the air in the fridge is not running, but if the heater is not working there might be nothing to distribute.

[RegUS_PatOff]

The Defrost Heater should be about 40 OHMs
The Fridge Fan may not work if the Door (Switch) is open.
May need to do the Thermistor tests.

[wstreer]

Hi again

Today I dismantled the internals and this is what I found:

I bought a new heater element but the resistance of the new heater element is identical with the installed element. (without load)
Fan is working fine
Evaporator was completely iced up
no thermistor fault at self test
Fridge is cooling down fine again after putting everything together again.

Since I feel that the fride will work only for a short period and will ice up again, I have the following questions:

What can make the heater cycle fail working? (heater element, maybe a fuse on the board...?)
Would it make sense to replaces the heater element even if I measure ok resistance without load?.
How can I test the thermistors and the thermal fuse?

Thank you

Wolf

[wstreer]

Just found that the defrost sensor shows 7332 Ohms with a fridge room temperature at 11720 ohms. It seems to me that the defrost sensor is defect. I assume it is mounted on the evaporator and should show a evap temp less than fridge room temp.
This would explain why the heater element is in working order but not switched on because of already high evap temperature.

Are my assumptions correct and if yes where do I get a spare defrost sensor?

Wolf

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

The spec on the defrost sensor is 5K ohms at 50°F. It's an NTC sensor so the resistance will increase as temperature decreases. Depending on what the actual sensor temperature was at the time you measured the resistance, that resistance may be in the ballpark.

Have you checked the continuity of the bimetal thermal fuse? This is a common troublemaker. If you find that it's open, Samsung recommends that you replace both it and the defrost heater.

[wstreer]

Thanks, will do