6 replies to this topic

[Sparky1]

Just wondered what you carry with you across the water.

The basics I carry in to all jobs are: Non contact voltage indicator, DMM, Insulation tester, EFLI / RCD quick test plug.
Everything in this kit gets used on virtually every job.

Van kit: Analogue Multimeter (For Microwaves), Microwave leakage detector, Digital clamp meter, K-type & Infra red thermometers, Full Electrical installation tester.

Edited by Sparky1, 06 February 2011 - 06:43 AM.

[kdog]

Clamp-on ammeter and several cheater cords with various types of terminals

[Sparky1]

Hi Kdog, thanks for reply. Cheater cords? please explain. What about safety testing on completion of a repair? don't you have to do this in the US?

Edited by Sparky1, 06 February 2011 - 01:24 PM.

[appl.tech.29501]

cords for testing various motors and devices....isolates the part from the machine

[Sparky1]

Hey Apple.tech thanks for clearing that up, I have'nt come across anything like that over here. Sounds like a good idea to me, think I might make some up.

[Tuco]

Hey Sparky,
I'm still a part timer, so I don't have all the neat stuff yet. I mostly use an analogue Volt (120v-240v)/ Ohm (multimeter) meter, a clamp on amp meter (Am Probe meter) and a pocket thermometer for refrigerator repair.

I have a cheater switch for top loader Whirlpool washing machine, and plan on making some cheater switches/ test dummies for ice makers that are installed inside freezers.

We have to make our own cheater/test/dummy switches from old appliances. Not sure what you mean by having to safety test. Is that a law of some sort?

We do run the appliance when finished to insure a proper safe repair is complete.

Cheers

[Sparky1]

Hi Tuco thanks for clearing that up, I did think that maybe they were something you could buy from parts suppliers in the US.
Safety testing is something that we do at the end of every repair or at least those of us who are Pro's do, unfortunately we still have a lot of people over here that don't do the job properly they just do a basic repair then take the money & run. Basically safety testing in both Commercial & Domestic equipment consists of the following: A test on the continuity of the Earth conductor between the Earth pin on the plug or Earth point in the connection unit & the chassis Earth point within the appliance the maximum resistance should be 0.5 Ohms, once this is confirmed as OK then a further test is carried out. For this test you connect Live & Neutral together on the plug & test between this connection and the Earth pin, for a 110 volt appliance you would use a 250 volt DC test voltage & for a 220/240 volt appliance you would use a 500 volt DC test voltage & the minimum resistance you are looking for is 2 Megohms. Once this has been done the next test is on the Earth of the circuit supplying the appliance useing an Earth Fault Loop Impedance tester, this places a high current on the Earth line to measure it's resistance. The Min/Max values for this test vary with the type of circuit being tested & the type of Electricity supply system to the building.

You were saying that you don't have all the neat stuff yet, I would'nt worry about that. The way I look at it is this: If you learn to fault find properly useing only basic test equipment,it may take a bit longer to find a fault but you may well end up with a better understanding of how things work. When I started in the trade we did'nt have Digital meters only Analogue & I still use 1 on a regular basis because I prefer them, unfortunately nowadays I have to use a Digital for a lot of the stuff I repair.


Cheers: Andy

Edited by Sparky1, 07 February 2011 - 09:06 AM.