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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

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heritageadam

GE side by side refrigerator gets warm

4 posts in this topic

I am having some issues with my GE side by side refrigerator. Purchased 2004. Model GSH22SGPC.

There are several things I have noticed, I am not sure if they are caused by the same problem or not, but I’ll list it all here in case it helps pinpoint the cause.

My primary problem is that intermittently, though not all the time, when I open the fridge first thing in the morning, after no one has opened it all night, the food in the top shelf in the fridge will be WARM. I also notice that the wall between the fridge and freezer is warm. When this occurs the ice cubes in the ice cube tray also get half melted. After opening the doors, the fridge seems to restart and blow cold air.

This is a real problem since the food ends up warm and then the half melted ice cubes refreeze into a block.

Next issue is that intermittently the water dispenser does not work. It is all or nothing, it does not sputter. I do not notice any ice or sediment come out when it restarts. It will consistently not work for periods of hours, then seems to work other times for hours. I don’t notice anything seemingly wrong with the temp of the water that comes out when it is working, doesn’t seem too hot or cold.

I’ve changed the water filter x 2. I’ve also made sure the air is able to circulate in the freezer, the back of the interior of the freezer is not blocked. I vacuumed off the condenser coils in the back of the fridge.

A third issue, not problematic or bothersome, though I mention it if I may help pinpoint the problem, occasionally when I open the fridge door, the number settings of how cold the fridge and freezer are do not light up. The numbers stay blank. Though, the fridge light does come on. If I close the door and reopen it the numbers come on eventually.

What is the next step? Replacing the circuitboard in the back of the refrigerator or one in the front? Any advice appreciated.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

I have a customer with the same problem (other than display issue) See my post

Of course when I tested fridge, everything tested okay. I wasn't sure if the customer was conflating symptoms so I tested everything. My gut feeling told me it is the board since other than ice up situation, and house current issues, nothing else affects water dispenser and fridge temp at the same time. I wanted to be sure before I spent customer's money on a mainboard so i told him to call me as soon as the symptoms show up again. As I think about it, there could be one more possibility, an intermittent damper problem. If the damper will not open, then most of the cold air will stay in the freezer, leading to a warmer fridge, customer maxing out temp controls and a frozen dispenser line. The evap thermistor responding to increase temps will call form more defrosting and now we have an out of balanced fridge. I could be over thinking situation but I really hate intermittent problems. Also, make sure to note Samurai's response to my post where he advises of a dispenser heater kit made to combat frozen lines in Ge profiles. Stay tuned and I will let you know how my customer's fridge turns out...also please post results of what you find, it would be helpful.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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. . the food in the top shelf in the fridge will be WARM.

. . I also notice that the wall between the fridge and freezer is warm.

. . occasionally when I open the fridge door, the number settings of how cold the fridge and freezer are do not light up. The numbers stay blank.

Though, the fridge light does come on. If I close the door and reopen it the numbers come on eventually.

1) maybe the Light doesn't turn OFF (or comes back ON) intermittent Door Switch ?

2) normal, but if hot, clean Condenser Coils and make sure it's Fan is working (when Compressor runs)

3) intermittent Door Switch ?

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RegUS is right as usual . Forgot to mention that, i learned that lesson a while back when a fridge door was sitting too low and not engaging the light switch. It is now a habit of mine to begin a diagnosis by plugging fridge into a kill-a-watt meter as a quick way to check amps to see if defrost heater comes on as well as if lights go off when door is closed. btw Many thanks to this site for suggesting using a kill-a-watt as oppose to line splitter and clamp meter..using it for several years now....I love it and customers love it when you pull out what appears to be a high tech metery gadgety thing (sizzle sells). I guess I now have to incorporate testing to see if light switch is intermittent...man I hate intermittent problems.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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