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sai

GE double-wall microwave keeps blowing the fuse

31 posts in this topic

I have a GE double-wall micorwave: micorwave + oven. Model no: 164D5312G013.

The oven is working fine, but the microwave is not working. The display panel for the oven is showing all the controls, but the display panel for the microwave is not lit at all. Can you please let me know what the issue could be?

Also, can you please send me the Service Manual for this model?

Edited by sai

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

If the microwave is completely dead, no lights, no display...I would check the fuse($2-3). You will have to open it up to check it .

Need an OHM meter to check the old fuse.

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Also, not finding anything with that model number. Recheck it and run that by be again.

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Thanks for the quick reply. Can you please let me know how to open the microwave, and locate the fuse? I have never done that before. If you can please send me the Service Manual that would be great.

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Also, not finding anything with that model number. Recheck it and run that by be again.

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Microwave Fuse

Obtain access to the fuse by placing the control panel in the service position.

Warning: When the 20-amp fuse is blown due to the operation of the monitor switch, the monitor switch must be replaced.

Also replace relays and / or interlock switches when continuity check shows contacts shorted.

A 20-amp fuse is connected to the line-in side of the unit’s circuitry and is common to all functions and the door switches.

If this fuse blows (open), no functions will operate, including the display

# 439 Fuse Holder

# 562 Ceramic (white) 20 A Fuse

G0212075-00002.png

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Thanks. Can you please send me the Service Manual for this model? I need to know the steps for dis-assembling the microwave.

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from the 31-9098 service manual:

Table of Contents

Microwave

Refer to Pub # 31-9084, pages 29 through 44, for microwave service information and warranty for these products.

link PM'd

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I tested the fuse with an ohm meter. It doesn't have continuity. So, ireplaced it with the new one. Got the power supply but when i tried to heat something i heard a pop noise and the power to the microwave is gone. Replaced the fuse again and tried to heat the food. again the fuse is gone. What to do now.

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Check the monitor switch as Reg suggested should be open with door closed.

Edited by Southern Appliance

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Check the monitor switch as Reg suggested should be open with door closed.

also check to see if the Capacitor AND / OR Diode is shorted

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I checked the following readings:

Primary interlock: door open - 3ohm, door close - 3ohm

monitor: door open - 0ohm, door close - ohm

door sensing: door open - 60ohm, door close - 60ohm

do i have to replace all the above 3 parts?

how do i check for shorting of diode/capacitor?

if yes, can u let me know the part numbers on your website for the above 3 parts.

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Quick easy way to see if the high voltage system is blowing the fuse, disconnect the wires to the primary side of the high voltage transformer and make sure they are safely away from any part of the microwave.

Turn the unit on and if all operates OK, (except no heat of coarse), then the high voltage system is blowing the fuse and you would need to diagnose that section. If fuse still blows with transformer disconnected then it time to replace all the door switches.

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I checked the door switches again. All the door switches are working fine. Then i checked the capacitor and diode. Capacitor is showing 0ohms. Diode is working fine. Do you want me to replace the capacitor. Can you also let me know the part number for the ge capacitor.

Thanks alot

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I replaced the capacitor. Microwave is running now (light is on, turntable is turning), BUT, it is not heating the food. Also, there is a pungent smell when i run the microwave.

I checked the following:

Diode: shows 0 reading in both directions when testing only with multimeter. when testing with multimeter & 6V battery, it was showing infinity in both directions.

Transformer:

-resistance between primary input terminals: zero ohms

-terminal 5 to chassis: zero ohms

-terminal 4 to 3: zero ohms

Magnetron:

-across filament leads: zero ohms

-one lead to chassis: infinity

-other lead to chassis: infinity

Please let me know how to proceed.

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Diode: shows 0 reading in both directions when testing only with multimeter. when testing with multimeter & 6V battery, it was showing infinity in both directions.

are you sure that's 0 OHMs ?

Is this with an analog OHM meter ?

Usually need at least 9 volts in series ...then measure voltage

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its kind of near zero. difficult to make out if its a little different from zero.

this is using an analog multimeter.

the battery i used was actually a 9V one (not 6v....sorry).

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. . . the battery i used was actually a 9V one (not 6v....sorry).

. . . and should be measuring voltage when using Battery with Diode

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Here's how you test them HV rectumflyers:

1192075987_n3b6T-M.jpg

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In the above diagram, where it needs to show 0VDC, it is showing 10VDC.

Where it needs to show 7VDC, it is showing a value less than 0VDC.

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are you sure both the Battery and Diode polarities are as shown in each picture ?

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yes, i checked it again, and got the same values as i mentioned.

I am using an analog multimeter, set at 10 DCV.

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