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GE double-wall microwave keeps blowing the fuse


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30 replies to this topic

#1 sai

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 02:09 PM

I have a GE double-wall micorwave: micorwave + oven. Model no: 164D5312G013.

The oven is working fine, but the microwave is not working. The display panel for the oven is showing all the controls, but the display panel for the microwave is not lit at all. Can you please let me know what the issue could be?

Also, can you please send me the Service Manual for this model?

Edited by sai, 12 February 2011 - 08:12 PM.


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#2 Tuco

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 03:24 PM

If the microwave is completely dead, no lights, no display...I would check the fuse($2-3). You will have to open it up to check it .
Need an OHM meter to check the old fuse.

#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 05:29 PM

Also, not finding anything with that model number. Recheck it and run that by be again.

#4 sai

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 06:03 PM

Thanks for the quick reply. Can you please let me know how to open the microwave, and locate the fuse? I have never done that before. If you can please send me the Service Manual that would be great.

#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 06:05 PM

Also, not finding anything with that model number. Recheck it and run that by be again.



#6 sai

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 07:18 PM

The model no is JTP86B0F1BB GE double wall oven.

#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 09:31 PM

Microwave Fuse
Obtain access to the fuse by placing the control panel in the service position.
Warning: When the 20-amp fuse is blown due to the operation of the monitor switch, the monitor switch must be replaced.
Also replace relays and / or interlock switches when continuity check shows contacts shorted.
A 20-amp fuse is connected to the line-in side of the unit’s circuitry and is common to all functions and the door switches.
If this fuse blows (open), no functions will operate, including the display

# 439 Fuse Holder
# 562 Ceramic (white) 20 A Fuse


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#8 sai

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 11:35 PM

Thanks. Can you please send me the Service Manual for this model? I need to know the steps for dis-assembling the microwave.

#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 12:07 AM

from the 31-9098 service manual:

Table of Contents
Microwave
Refer to Pub # 31-9084, pages 29 through 44, for microwave service information and warranty for these products.


link PM'd
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#10 sai

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 09:48 PM

I tested the fuse with an ohm meter. It doesn't have continuity. So, ireplaced it with the new one. Got the power supply but when i tried to heat something i heard a pop noise and the power to the microwave is gone. Replaced the fuse again and tried to heat the food. again the fuse is gone. What to do now.

#11 Southern Appliance

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 10:39 PM

Check the monitor switch as Reg suggested should be open with door closed.

Edited by Southern Appliance, 14 February 2011 - 10:40 PM.


#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 10:48 PM

Check the monitor switch as Reg suggested should be open with door closed.

also check to see if the Capacitor AND / OR Diode is shorted
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#13 sai

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 12:28 AM

I checked the following readings:
Primary interlock: door open - 3ohm, door close - 3ohm
monitor: door open - 0ohm, door close - ohm
door sensing: door open - 60ohm, door close - 60ohm

do i have to replace all the above 3 parts?

how do i check for shorting of diode/capacitor?

if yes, can u let me know the part numbers on your website for the above 3 parts.

#14 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 06:49 AM

Quick easy way to see if the high voltage system is blowing the fuse, disconnect the wires to the primary side of the high voltage transformer and make sure they are safely away from any part of the microwave.

Turn the unit on and if all operates OK, (except no heat of coarse), then the high voltage system is blowing the fuse and you would need to diagnose that section. If fuse still blows with transformer disconnected then it time to replace all the door switches.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 06:52 AM

does the Switch Latch mechanism physically work ?

need (1) of these
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=253820

 

00595006.jpg

and (2) of these
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=253819

 

00613371.jpg

the Diode and the Capacitor (after discharging) can be checked for shorts (continuity)


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#16 sai

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 10:21 PM

I checked the door switches again. All the door switches are working fine. Then i checked the capacitor and diode. Capacitor is showing 0ohms. Diode is working fine. Do you want me to replace the capacitor. Can you also let me know the part number for the ge capacitor.


Thanks alot

#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 10:28 PM

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=769853
 
00810156.jpg


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every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#18 sai

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Posted 19 February 2011 - 10:25 PM

I replaced the capacitor. Microwave is running now (light is on, turntable is turning), BUT, it is not heating the food. Also, there is a pungent smell when i run the microwave.

I checked the following:
Diode: shows 0 reading in both directions when testing only with multimeter. when testing with multimeter & 6V battery, it was showing infinity in both directions.

Transformer:
-resistance between primary input terminals: zero ohms
-terminal 5 to chassis: zero ohms
-terminal 4 to 3: zero ohms

Magnetron:
-across filament leads: zero ohms
-one lead to chassis: infinity
-other lead to chassis: infinity

Please let me know how to proceed.

#19 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 February 2011 - 10:48 PM

Diode: shows 0 reading in both directions when testing only with multimeter. when testing with multimeter & 6V battery, it was showing infinity in both directions.

are you sure that's 0 OHMs ?
Is this with an analog OHM meter ?
Usually need at least 9 volts in series ...then measure voltage
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#20 sai

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Posted 19 February 2011 - 11:12 PM

its kind of near zero. difficult to make out if its a little different from zero.

this is using an analog multimeter.

the battery i used was actually a 9V one (not 6v....sorry).




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