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GE Dryer gets hot, spins, doesn't dry


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17 replies to this topic

#1 GotNoEyedDeer

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 07:19 PM

This is the GE made by Fridgidare beast. We bought it used and it doesn't work well at all. Thought the vent was clogged, but it is not and has been cleaned anyways. I took the front apart and cleaned all the lint out. Now their is a leak from the front of the machine. But basically it spins, the top gets really hot, but the drum doesn't seem to get hot enough to dry the clothes. Out of ideas, I would think if it gets hot and spins it should dry the clothes. Takes about 5 hours to dry a load of clothes. Need some help! Thank you.

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 08:34 PM

1) heat
2) airflow
which one are you missing ?
OR the clothes are too wet (Washer not fully Spinning)

Dryer must be fully assembled for correct air-flow.

If it's in a well ventilated room, you could try a load with the Vent disconnected.

Dryer Vent
Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.
 


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#3 SANTA

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 08:39 PM

Possible blower wheel problem?

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 09:09 PM

Blower Wheel connected directly to Drum Motor...

unless physically damaged ...
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#5 GotNoEyedDeer

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 09:07 AM

Blower wheel is fine. I pulled the hose off for correct flow and it felt fine, and felt hot. Will check it with a temp guage. How much air should be coming out? Maybe it's not spinning fast enough?

Will also see if it drys better with the hose disconnected

#6 GotNoEyedDeer

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 08:03 PM

Air at vent is fine. I'm gonna cut the connector to the wall shorter and see if that helps.

#7 GotNoEyedDeer

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 08:18 PM

Take that back!

Hot at start up, but vent temp drops to low 90's after a few minutes!

Busted temp cut off switch?

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 08:55 PM

how long does it stay at 90F ?
what's the maximum temperature ?
also depends on Fabric Selector Switch settimg
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#9 GotNoEyedDeer

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 09:06 PM

Max reading I got was 145, it is set on temp regular (hot) timed dry for 20 min. Seems to stay in mid 90's once it drops down. Stopped it and started it again and it got hot, but then cooled down again and stays that way.

#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 09:28 PM

GE DBL333EA0WW built by Frigidaire

sounds like a bad Thermostat, as long as the Fabric Selector Switch isn't "stuck" in the medium heat setting,
sending voltage to the Thermostat's built-in resistor to fool it's temperature.

check the voltage across the Thermsostat's Blue and Orange/Black wires.
Should be 0v if set to Regular Heat.

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=771221

 

00799644.jpg


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#11 LLAMBERT

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 09:33 PM

If you don't have a good blower seal, you can get good airflow out of the dryer, but the air isn't coming through the dryer drum, just from the cabinet, which overheats, thus short cycling the thermostats.
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#12 GotNoEyedDeer

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 07:32 PM

Check the t'stat while running for 0v? And if there is voltage flow then the switch is bad?

LL-The foam seal that is on the front that sits to the blower wheel when assembled? It looks fine to me.

Tried another temp run tonight and I could not get above 90 out of the exhaust temp. The inside maxed out at 115 and then dropped down to mid 90's after a few minutes.

#13 GotNoEyedDeer

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 07:33 PM

And how do I check for a "stuck" switch?

#14 GotNoEyedDeer

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Posted 27 February 2011 - 05:25 PM

I checked the posts where the blue and orange/black wires go with the switch disconnected, and it reads 4 OHMS. Regardless the switch was physically damaged when I took the front plate this time, the actual plastic part was no longer sitting in the metal piece. So I went ahead and ordered a new one, but how do I test the selector switch in the meantime to make sure it is working correctly?

#15 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 28 February 2011 - 04:54 PM

... how do I test the selector switch in the meantime to make sure it is working correctly?


Gonna need the wiring diagram so you can identify the pins on the selector switch. Should be inside the control console. Post a nice big image of it to an online hosting service or fax it to me at 866-315-4504.

#16 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 28 February 2011 - 07:57 PM

GE DBL333 made by Frigidaire
Parts List & Wiring Diagram
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#17 GotNoEyedDeer

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Posted 03 March 2011 - 07:49 PM

Looks like the thermostat did it. Looking at the wiring diagram, I think the control thermostat was physically damaged and not reading so when the coils got hot enough the high temp shut off stat would trip it and there was no trigger to restart it. But my dog ate the blower seal and somehow the knobs broke while it was sitting there lol. So it's working for the most part, but not 100%.

#18 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 08:09 AM

Part link for the cycling thermostat ==> http://www.repaircli...ber=DBL333EA0WW






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