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Whirlpool WED5520SQ0


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6 replies to this topic

#1 Bartlett

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 03:27 PM

I have the above mentioned whirlpool drier and when pushing the start button, the start button clicks as normal for start up, and voltage passes through the switch. I tested all the thermal cutoffs and they seem to be working as well. Jumpered past those switches just to be sure, with no change. Without being entirely savvy on the schematic of the timer switch, I can't be entirely sure if it is working, there was a wire that is suspect, but I think it is related to the end of cycle business and wasn't doing anything during the testing, which is somewhat expected. The only other fishy thing that I can see is the resistance in the motor. The schematic lists the expected ohms to be 2.4-3.8 on the start side, and 2.4-3.6 on the run side. The start side registers at 3.3k and the run side came in at 1.9k Is this enough to indicate that the motor is definitely shot?

Further suspect is that the ohm rating doesn't indicate the thousand range, where it does indicate such in other places on the schematic. Is that likely an oersight/space issue, or would the motor truly give single digit resistance?

For a bit of background, we did a load of laundry that ran normally all the way through the cycle, unloaded it and tried starting it again with a new load, that is when the problem occurred.

Thanks for the help!

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 04:51 PM

Motor should be 2Ω to 4Ω
what type of meter are you using ?

Have you checked the white Thermal Fuse on the Blower Housing ?

http://www.repaircli...sp?R=154&N=2986

 

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#3 Bartlett

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 07:33 PM

Unfortunately I did not do the testing myself, a guy from work came over and did it the day before he left on a 7 day snowmobiling trip to Canada. He had the expectation that it was a thermal fuse and an easy fix. He said that he tested all the switches and fuses and didn't find anything that wasn't working right. The meter we used had multiple settings Voltage, both AC and DC, as well as measuring ohms. It accurately gave ohm readings on other parts of the drier that we tested (thermostat heater between 5600 and 8400 is one that I remember.)

I will see if I can get behind the machine to test (or retest) that fuse. I'm not entirely sure where the testing points would be to get an ohm reading off the motor, but it definitely was giving readings in the thousands when he tested it.

Thanks for the quick reply!

#4 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 07:35 PM

Whew! I think this is one of those situations where after you bring out your new fangled Ohm-Detector-Proto Generator Magnum Module (I got one and it has a built in bottle opener) and spend hours connecting it to the motor , PTS relay button and timer gizmo, you find out later all you have is a simple intermittent door switch. huh...forgot that one didn't ya.

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 23 February 2011 - 07:39 PM.

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#5 kdog

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Posted 23 February 2011 - 08:18 PM

The schematic lists the expected ohms to be 2.4-3.8 on the start side, and 2.4-3.6 on the run side. The start side registers at 3.3k and the run side came in at 1.9k



There are no "test points" for these measurements except at the motor switch itself - the best way to test the motor is to look for 120vac being supplied to blue and white wire going in to harness connector at motor, good idea to check voltage(s) at your electrical plug in too; just fer kicks
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#6 Bartlett

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 06:01 AM

It turned out to be the motor. The centrifugal switch is getting stuck and not resetting on its own with every load. Spinning the drum manually remedies the issue for now. Thanks for all the input!

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 March 2011 - 08:49 AM

Good find!

Here's the part link for the new motor and a help video for installing it==> http://www.repaircli...rive-Motor/2584




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