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jerlenaz

Frigidaire freezer not cooling - frosting over

10 posts in this topic

I have a quick question to see if its worth even bringing a repair person out. I have a 5 year old Frigidaire Side-by-Side refrigerator (Model FRS65ESB4). About 2 years ago, it wasn't cooling properly and when I removed the back panel in the freezer, I saw that the evaporator coils weren't frosting over. I called up a technician and they replaced the evaporator coil and recharged the condenser and everything worked fine until a couple of weeks ago, when the back of the freezer would not defrost.

I removed the back panel again, and this time the evaporator coils are frosted over, but I noticed a black, sticky substance hanging down from where the copper coil connects to the evaporator coil. This time, the repair won't be under warranty and I wonder if its even worth bringing someone out to look at it, or just bite the bullet and get a new refrigerator.

I've posted some pictures of what the first problem was, how the evaporator coil looked when fixed, and now the current problem.

1) First problem - evaporator coil blocked or leakage in 08/2009

P8090022.JPG

2) After defrosting, technician replaced evaporator coil (08/2009)

P8090026.JPG

3) Proper operation of evaporator coil (08/2009)

P8090029.JPG

4) Current problem - frosting inside freezer with ice forming. Auto-defrost doesn't seem to work. View of evaporator coil. What is black stuff hanging?

P2230007.JPG

5) Black stuff seems to be "insulation" material over coupling to evaporator coil and has melted?

P2230009.JPG

6) Evaporator coil frosting, but too much. Is it worth repairing again or just get a new fridge?

P2230010.JPG

Can anyone provide a diagnosis and some suggestions?

Thanks

Edited by RegUS_PatOff

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Model FRS65ESB4

check that model number again . .

1) definitely a Sealed System problem, may have been a leaky Evaporator..

replaced under warranty ?

2) Is that Defrost Thermostat "clipped" onto the Evaporator, OR "glued" with that black stuff ?

3) "proper operation" ? maybe, or mabe too much frost - - air-clogged / Defrost problem

4) definitely a Defrost problem

5) I don't know

6) definitely a Defrost problem, should be an easy repair

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Start by checking that heater. See the 2 black wires on either side of the coil? That is the wires to the heater. Unplug and test with your ohm meter...10-30 ohms Ok...open or infinite bad.

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Nice pictures! :thumbsup:

I don't think it's a sealed system problem-- got plenty o' frost on the new evaporator. I think your current problem is unrelated to the evaporator replacement you had done previously.

I'd go in the direction of the defrost system, like Kurtius say; and air flow-- make sure the evaporator fan is running.

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That model is real bad about the plug ends for the heater seperating or getting corroded. Would be that or defrost bimetal.

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If you do find a corroded heater plug, jeri, snap another photo!

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No need to worry about the black stuff, it's just a muffler, to quite the noise of the refrigerant as it boils off when entering the evaporator.

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Yeah looks like nice even frost.....Defrost system problem. I think your model is a FRS6R5ESB. You can try to initiate a defrost by one of the following methods

These methods are for Frigidaire models with Adaptive Defrost Control boards. Not sure which one applies to your model but i think the first one does.

. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.

If that doesn't work maybe the following:

. To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A “d” in the freezer temperature window and “F” in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. “d” and “F” will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)

. If defrost starts and your heater gets hot, then you need to replace your adaptive defrost control board as it is not advancing automatically into defrost. If nothing happens then test 1) heater for continuity...if fine then 2)test defrost thermostat for continuity (while it is still cold...cuts out at 47 degrees and cuts on at 22 degrees so best test for continuity at 22 degrees or less) if also fine then replace defrost control board. Once you find the problem it is of utmost importance that you remove all frost and especially all ice covering/clogging defrost drainage hole.

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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:whistling: Sorry to be a pest but the "Muffler" is located on the discharge line after the compressor. It is used to quite refrigerant pulsation.

The black stuff is "Insulation wrap" on this unit it is holding the defrost bi-metal rather then using a clamp. (saved a dime).

Definately a defrost problem so follow Durham Appliance advice. :thumbsup:

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Nope, the DTS has a spring clip that holds it on the coil - the gob of mastic wrap was once wrapped around the accumulator of the evaporator. aka "sizzle kit" or "gurgle kit" - this chunk was just draped over the tube and not secured as it has unwound and plopped down into the coil

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