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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

      Topics with the complete and accurate model number in the topic title will get priority attention. You can validate your model number by entering into the form on this page: http://www.repairclinic.com/?clearLs=true For more help on using Appliantology effectively, please see this page:  
crisscross

Maytag FAV6800AWW belt replacement

25 posts in this topic

So, I got the top lifted and the front panel off...only to find the belt has a strip torn off it. I knew what the problem was because I'd had someone repair it previously when I couldn't figure out how to get in there, and he said it had probably just wobbled off when the washer became unbalanced, so I thought I'd just open it up and put the belt back on again, but no dice.

Now, I figured I'd just hit up for a replacement...but noooo. Not only do they not have it, I can't even figure out which number to search by. Here's what it says (each of the lines below is printed repeatedly in its own column, with about an inch between columns):

Maytag 62900960

20805 made in usa

66 284/66 285/66 286/66 287/66 288/66 289 (IOW, there's a column of 66s, and then 1/8" away there's a column that reads, top to bottom, 284-289). this all repeats again an inch over.

0071 374/..../0071 381 (as above).

Anyone have any idea where I can get a new belt? Is there anything I can do to prevent this happening again once I do get a non-shredded belt?

Thanks!!!

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

That model number doesn't work at any of my sites.

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I know. But I swear to God I read it right off the machine.

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Are you sure your model isn't PAV5000AWW? If so, does the following look familiar?

1297146_f260.jpg

Edited by DurhamAppliance

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FAV5800AWW

blink.gif My eyesight isn't as good as it once was

see > (RegUS_PatOff

)

but from here it looks like your model number may be

FAV6800AWW

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maybe

FAV6800AWW

Sensei nail.jpg

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You are correct--it's 6800. I'm sorry, I thought I had been so careful to take it all down accurately!

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Okay, so, with the correct model number, I found the belt...now, any thoughts on how to fix it so this doesn't reoccur? it's a $17 belt plus s&h, so I don't want this to become a weekly occurrence!

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“”Is there anything I can do to prevent this happening again once I do get a non-shredded belt?""

Before you put that belt back on the Clutch Pulley and you have the front cover off I would see if you can rotate the Clutch Pulley both in the CCW direction (Spin Direction) and the CW direction (Wash/Agitate Direction) to ensure nothing is binding/seized up.

Watch ya don’t pinch you fingers when you walk that belt back on the Clutch Pulley. Even with belt tension released it’s a pain……….Dick

Edited by dh1200s

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Thanks so much for your help! Belt has been ordered, and I will definitely check and make sure the clutch pulley isn't binding up before putting the belt on. Thanks for the finger-pinching heads-up, too!!!

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“”so I thought I'd just open it up and put the belt back on again, but no dice.”” I glazed over this statement. Was the drive belt broken/parted and could not be placed back on the machine?

Also it’s a good idea to post the 1st two digits of your machines serial number with the model number when you post in any DIY appliance repair forum for this machine. That will provide the series number of the machine. The number range is 10, 11, 12 up to 17. The drive belt is not series dependent that would just give me some insight to other series dependent items such as Clutch Pulley configuration and Outer Tub design related to replacement of the Outer Tub Bearings.

I like the eye chart response....it still pulls a chuckle from me when I go thru this thread. I own several pairs of trifocals and one humongous magnifying lens that was a NASA prototype for the Hubble Space Telescope program. That eye chart was in perfect focus for me :wacko:

Do check for any binding issues ASAP, not that it can’t happen...... “”and he said it had probably just wobbled off when the washer became unbalanced”” yea right….. that rates 5 :no: ’s on my recently calibrated smiley face meter which is full scale deflection. I still use an old school analog smiley face meter when measuring ridiculous comments made on this machine. You will see just how tight the drive belt tension is even with the drive motor tension bolt released when you reinstall the new drive belt.

I hope it is just a worn belt issue and you are back in service soon……….Dick

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I will try to remember to take a look at the serial # tomorrow--machine is in the basement and I am lazy. :)

The belt I thought I was going to put back on has a couple of rips in one edge, maybe 3" apart, and coming from that area, a small threadlike strip of material maybe 6" long that looks like it was carved from the bottom of the groove where is goes on the pulley. So it does sound like maybe a bearing seized or something. Argh.

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“”I will try to remember to take a look at the serial # tomorrow--machine is in the basement and I am lazy.””

Totally up to you Crisscross,

I’m an owner of the machine not a expert repair technician. What I don’t see being asked here are some deeper questions about the condition of your original belt/failure;

• Condition of old belt. Can it be placed back on the Clutch Pulley.

• Past 12 month history of machine repair actions.

• Any unusual noise heard during past wash/spin cycles like grinding metal against metal, belt squeal etc. (I understand the basement location).

• Upon inspection any smell of burnt rubber or other out of the norm odor in the machine, no smelly socks descriptions :yucky:.

You did ask solid questions up front;

“”Is there anything I can do to prevent this happening again once I do get a non-shredded belt?”” ..... with an excellent follow up question.......”” Okay, so, with the correct model number, I found the belt...now, any thoughts on how to fix it so this doesn't reoccur? it's a $17 belt plus s&h, so I don't want this to become a weekly occurrence!””

I’m not saying the sky is falling and as I said I hope this is just a worn belt issue. I like to do a little basic troubleshooting up front before a parts buy even with a solid return policy. In my eyes the codition of the belt is out of the norm....but I don't have a feel for your useage/machine cycle count.

From your follow up description the belt is frayed not parted. Is there any reason you did not try to walk the belt back on the Clutch Pulley and fire the machine up for a test run?

Good luck..........Dick

Edited by dh1200s

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I’m an owner of the machine not a expert repair technician.

I beg to differ on that point DH, You have a much more solid understanding of these machines than most of us do (machines are few and far between), I think I have read all of your posts and would not hesitate to name you the house expert on the Neptune TL !!

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Hey KDOG,

Thank you for the kind words It’s just a hobby and I like to tinker. If I can help the DIY owner or Service Tech with a FAV6800A/FAV9800A issue I’ll chime in. In my eyes I’m no expert repair technician on the FAV6800A/FAV9800A TL’s.

I do feel the belt failure this owner experienced may be due to a deeper issue with the machine but I could be wrong and I hope I am wrong. It is my opinion that some basic troubleshooting should be done before any parts are ordered for any failure.

I did not see any basic troubleshooting questions offered in this thread and the owner was reaching out “”I found the belt...now, any thoughts on how to fix it so this doesn't reoccur? “”.

I feel checking for drive system binding is a generic question that should be asked for the issue reported. The other bullet questions would help me and others drill down to additional troubleshooting steps if needed, basic 101 questions for the failure described.

Again I hope the replacement drive belt can be slapped on and crisscross is good to go.

Google this one Maytag Neptune TL FAV6800AWW dead

It is for a FAV9800A LCD Console machine.....I need to get that eye chart graphic.

OK maybe advanced novice rating for that one. I try to hammer home to the DIY owner ‘’”troubleshoot first parts buy second””.........Dick

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Yep, I agree - belts don't usually just "fall off" - but that is an unusual machine and there could be an underlying issue with the clutch or the dreaded tub bearing

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Okay, so. The first 2 digits of the serial number are 18. Swear to God. You say it goes up to 17, but I am looking at a photo I took with my cell phone so I could triple-check, and it's 18. :wacko:

The bearings turn freely. There are no odors, and as luck would have it, my partner was in the basement at the time the belt came off and says there were no screeching/grinding/etc noises, just the motor whirring while obviously not turning the tub. We didn't try to put the old belt back on because we thought it was too damaged and would just bind up again:

5490309051_a318a23f3b.jpg

5490903724_8a7ec93859.jpg

As for history...we bought this machine a few months after moving into this house, so...around the end of 2005/beginning of 2006. We have had no trouble with it until a few months ago, the first time the belt slipped off. We don't do all that much laundry--2 adults, no kids, although we do have horses and dogs, so there's the occasional horse blanket, and our bedspread gets the pawprints washed off it often. The dogs are short-haired, btw. The only long hairs in this house are mine. We try to be good about not letting random stuff find its way into the washer, although I have found the odd button or whatever, and one time one of us washed a pair of pants with a deck screw left in the pocket (I assume, because I found it when I took all the clothes out). But that was all way before any of this happened.

Oh! One time I found some pieces of white plastic in with the clothes. That turned out to be some pieces from around the top of the drum--something must have gotten stuck up there between the top of the drum and the lip above it. But that was also a while ago. When the guy came to put the belt back on the first time, he noticed the chipped rim and just said be sure not to overload it, so we've been more careful since then. At the time that he came, we couldn't figure out what was wrong with the machine or how to figure out what was wrong (or even how to get the front off--I guess this is laughable around here, but we had no clue, having never seen it done!), hence not even trying to fix it ourselves. But if it's going to be a recurring theme, clearly we need to figure it out, and hopefully figure out what the actual problem is, since he just put the belt back on and didn't do anything else.

In the meantime, we have another problem, which is that the belt I ordered came today and doesn't fit. :wallbash: No idea why, since it's ostensibly the right part number, but it is 1/2" - 1" shorter than the old one. Although I guess if the old one is too stretched out from whatever has been going on down there, maybe that's why it came off...but I'm not sure we'll be able to get the smaller one on, since I don't see any mechanism to release/adjust the pulleys to allow the belt to go on, and this is definitely too small to just walk on.

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That's the one I ordered, but the one I got seems to be 25001054, not 1033136. Although when I search for the first #, I get this same belt, and it says "(Manufacturer part number 25001054 is RepairClinic item number 1033136.)"

But the belt I received is unequivocally shorter than what was on the machine.

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i can't recall having any issues replacing the belts, but it is odd that the description of the part link above is "Belt - Stretch" - your belt may be streched - can you walk the replacement on a grove or two at a time ?

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Excellent feedback crisscross thank you.

“”The first 2 digits of the serial number are 18. Swear to God. You say it goes up to 17””

I thought the Series 17 was the last in the series.

Sorry to put you thru this but the Drive Belt fray and gash is very unusal.

I need to make sure I'm on the same page and clearly understand what the action was for your test “”The bearings turn freely”” So please bare with me as I try to make sure there is absoutely no binding with Clutch Pulley rotation.

If you spin the Clutch Pulley CCW (Spin direction) for a couple of turns the large wrap spring in the Clutch Pulley will compress. Once compressed (after a few Clutch Pulley CCW rotations) the wash basket should begin to rotate CCW does it? You will need a helper to observe. Checking here to ensure the Spinner Support is turning freely in the Outer Tub bearings.

When you rotate the Clutch Pulley CW (Wash agitate direction) the tumblers should begin to turn immediately do they? Checking that the Agitator Shaft is turning freely in the Spinner Support bearings and the tranny is not locked up.

Final test is for Outer Tub Bearing drag, with the washer lid open you should be able to rotate the Wash Basket CCW (Spin Direction) with on finger and very light resistance. If so spin up the wash basket CCW rotation as fast as you can by hand then observe that the wash basket continues to rotate several times before coming to a gentle stop. I’m trying to get a feel for Outer Tub bearing drag. Could you please relay the results?

The Drive Belt issue;

“”But the belt I received is unequivocally shorter than what was on the machine.“”

I have my drive belt off my Series 10 machine and it measures about 14 ¾ inches inside dimension stretched as taunt as I can stretch it by hand. Can you measure the inside dimension of your original belt and see how close you are to 14 ¾ inches? Can you do the same for the replacement you received?

I feel your original belt will be close to mine….. it’s hard for me to believe it stretched after viewing your pic. I checked another parts web site and the generic part number is 25001054 other parts vendor will have their in house p/n assigned. Now the issue is do we have the right belt for the machine. Let’s see what you measurements are with both belts inside dimension stretched a taunt as you can.

Can you check to see that the molded in motor mounts are not cracked.

I only have a couple of pic's showing drive tension/motor mount bolt and a pic with the Outer tub removed for Outer Tub bearing replacement. The bottom of the molded in motor mount is seen at the bottom left side of the tub in the second pic.

If you are game I would trim the fray off your original belt and slip it back on the Clutch Pulley. As I mentioned all three of my machines have a very snug fit with the drive motor tension bolt released. Start a Spin Only cycle so you don’t fill the wash tub with water and observer the Drive Belt/Clutch Pulley rotation in spin cycle.

We are looking to see if the Clutch Pulley runs true with no wobble. Safety first with that front cover off and eye protection on. Can you relay the results if you can get the original belt back on?

You are going to need the Service Manual Google this; 16022808 Revision 0 December 2003

Try a couple of the hits and you will find the FAV6800A/FAV9800A SM.

post-31044-0-06432200-1299055806_thumb.j

post-31044-0-61419200-1299055887_thumb.j

Edited by dh1200s

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i can't recall having any issues replacing the belts, but it is odd that the description of the part link above is "Belt - Stretch" - your belt may be streched - can you walk the replacement on a grove or two at a time ?

Kdog how may belts have you had to replace on the FAV6800A/FAV9800A? I'm and original owner of a series 16 machine 7/05 purchase date. I'ts still running with the original belt with no sign of wear and ditto for the Series 10 and 17. Well the Series 10 machine is a test bed machine now it did not need any work I just wanted the hands on. I changed the Tub Seal /tranny O-Ring/ Outer tub bearings/Spinner support bearings just for the hands on.

I had dropped the Clutch Pulleys on all three machines prior to recording the cycle count below for Clutch Pulley clean up and re-lube of the One-Way roller clutches needle bearings. The Drive Belts on the Series 10 and 16 machines were in solid shape referenced to the Series 17 machine.

The cycle count of the machines on 4/17/10 was;

Series 10 2996

Series 16 1845

Series 17 345

It sounds like the cycle count on crisscross machine must be very low as the original owner and washer usage history.

There is something else going on here. The drive belt fray and gash/cut I see from the pic’s is a real mystery to me. The rest of the ribbed drive belt looks excellent from the pic. No cracking/deterioration of the groves and peaks and the belt looks brand new for 6 year old machine. It looks similiar to the Series 10 belt I have in my hands with 2996+ cycle count.

If the recent Drive Belt crisscross received is the wrong drive belt. I hope crisscross will try to install the original belt and run a Spin Only cycle (with an empty wash basket) of the machine and provide some info on just how the drive belt is tracking on the Motor Pulley/Clutch Pulley under operation. I don’t think the belt will track off with it’s current condition but that’s a WAG.

Crisscross if you can mount the original drive belt I would start Spin Only cycle for a few minutes. As the machine spins up it will start a low 90 RPM then gradually step up in speed. If you can carefully watch the belt and Clutch Pulley rotation and see if the Clutch Pulley is spinning true with no wobble and the Drive Belt is tracking with no movement and trying to walk off the Drive Motor Pulley and Clutch Pulley.

If the belt stays on after few minutes I would hit the off button and go to page 14 of the Service Manual and start a Quick Spin Test. On page 14 it will show you how to enter in to Service Mode. Once in Service Mode start a Quick Spin Test. See if the Machine will spin up to “85.” on the LED Console which is 850 rpm the highest indicated Spin Speed the FAV6800A will spin up to. This test will take about 6 minutes or so. From a few feet back safety glasses on flash light in hand watch the spin cycle process and see if the Clutch Pulley continues to run true with no wobble as the RPM increases thru the test. There may be some slight shaking of the Wash Tub as the machine spins up. If there are any issue hit the OFF key pad to terminate the test.

If the Drive belt stays on do a Quick Wash cycle (with min machine settings) and see if you make it thru the cycle while observing Drive Belt tracking. The Motor will spin the Clutch Pulley with CW rotation in wash agitate part of the cycle. Just a note on normal 1st water fill of the machine. The Control Board will signal the Motor Control Board to power the Drive Motor CWW driving the wash basket CCW during the water fill part of the wash cycle. I feel the design team did this to better distribute laundry detergent and water saturation to the wash load it may be normal operation for all TL’s I just don’t know. After the water fill cycle the machine will enter into wash/agitate and the Clutch Pulley will be driving CW and only the tumblers will rotate. Can you observe the Drive Belt tracking and report on your observation.

Real important question for me…….. how long can tolerate the troubleshooting/down time?

You know what it cost for the repair person to come on site…….my time is free and I won’t bail on you. You will be in control of when to pull the plug on the troubleshooting……….Dick

Edited by dh1200s

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I'm just gonna throw this out there.

The serpentine belt on my 1996 F150 (200k miles) was cracked and worn and just nearly about to fall in two. It also didn't "look right", and the oil guy said I should change it. (No, I don't do oil. But I do just about everything else on it!)

I changed it and the new squeak was unbearable. After a day, I took the new belt off, and the bad spot on it looked *EXACTLY* like the bad spot on your damaged belt. I saw that my tensioner pulley was cracked a little, and only like $5, so I replaced that- a 3 minute job. Should have done more up-front troubleshooting-- once I got the original pulley off, not only could I see that there was nothing wrong with it or the bearing inside, but the original is made of metal and the new ones are made out of some kind of abs/fiber/resin stuff.

Only upon further investigation did I realize some other things:

  • The belt walks to the front by one v-groove and then to the back by one v-groove, about 10 times per second with the motor idling.
  • The water pump pulley has an indentation all the way around it, the exact width of the "old" v-belt- which is one v shy of the actual, original, manufacturer v-belt. The last (missing) v on the nearly-broken belt is mysteriously missing, I notice after another inspection. Not manufactured missing--- worn plum off missing.
  • And most importantly-- the squeak is coming from the alternator. Spinning the wheel on the alternator reveals the actual problem-- the alternator shaft is bent. Not enough to throw the serpentine belt, but enough to make it walk one v to the front and one v to the back 10 times every second, eventually ripping an edge off the belt.

Now, I'm not sayin it's the alternator shaft on your washer, I think that's darn unlikely, but after reading all this and never having seen this kind of beast you're working on (and having a thrown belt when experts are saying it's just way too tight for that to even happen) and I'm going to say you've got something out of true somewhere.

"to make a short story long."

Don't forget the safety glasses.

Jeremy

Edited by jermitts

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Hey Jeremy,

“”Should have done more up-front troubleshooting”” Jeremy I need that hammer and nail graphic that was posted in this thread…..... but I hope a big “”Right On ”” will do.

“” (and having a thrown belt when experts are saying it's just way too tight for that to even happen)””

I’m 100% with you and I’m asking the owner to do some deeper troubleshooting……….I hope I have not frustrated him with the process. It is my experience that this is a very uncommon failure of the Drive Belt. As I mentioned “”There is something else going on here.””.

"to make a short story long." Yea none of my post are short…………eating up clusters on the server hard drive.

Ditto on the “”Don't forget the safety glasses.””

Thank you for your comments, a very refreshing post, a rock solid common sense approach to troubleshooting that should be applied to getting this boat anchor back in service………….Dick

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