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Maytag FAV6800AWW belt replacement

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24 replies to this topic

#21 kdog



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Posted 02 March 2011 - 12:29 AM

i can't recall having any issues replacing the belts, but it is odd that the description of the part link above is "Belt - Stretch" - your belt may be streched - can you walk the replacement on a grove or two at a time ?

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#22 dh1200s



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Posted 02 March 2011 - 04:17 AM

Excellent feedback crisscross thank you.

“”The first 2 digits of the serial number are 18. Swear to God. You say it goes up to 17””

I thought the Series 17 was the last in the series.

Sorry to put you thru this but the Drive Belt fray and gash is very unusal.

I need to make sure I'm on the same page and clearly understand what the action was for your test “”The bearings turn freely”” So please bare with me as I try to make sure there is absoutely no binding with Clutch Pulley rotation.

If you spin the Clutch Pulley CCW (Spin direction) for a couple of turns the large wrap spring in the Clutch Pulley will compress. Once compressed (after a few Clutch Pulley CCW rotations) the wash basket should begin to rotate CCW does it? You will need a helper to observe. Checking here to ensure the Spinner Support is turning freely in the Outer Tub bearings.

When you rotate the Clutch Pulley CW (Wash agitate direction) the tumblers should begin to turn immediately do they? Checking that the Agitator Shaft is turning freely in the Spinner Support bearings and the tranny is not locked up.

Final test is for Outer Tub Bearing drag, with the washer lid open you should be able to rotate the Wash Basket CCW (Spin Direction) with on finger and very light resistance. If so spin up the wash basket CCW rotation as fast as you can by hand then observe that the wash basket continues to rotate several times before coming to a gentle stop. I’m trying to get a feel for Outer Tub bearing drag. Could you please relay the results?

The Drive Belt issue;

“”But the belt I received is unequivocally shorter than what was on the machine.“”

I have my drive belt off my Series 10 machine and it measures about 14 ¾ inches inside dimension stretched as taunt as I can stretch it by hand. Can you measure the inside dimension of your original belt and see how close you are to 14 ¾ inches? Can you do the same for the replacement you received?

I feel your original belt will be close to mine….. it’s hard for me to believe it stretched after viewing your pic. I checked another parts web site and the generic part number is 25001054 other parts vendor will have their in house p/n assigned. Now the issue is do we have the right belt for the machine. Let’s see what you measurements are with both belts inside dimension stretched a taunt as you can.

Can you check to see that the molded in motor mounts are not cracked.
I only have a couple of pic's showing drive tension/motor mount bolt and a pic with the Outer tub removed for Outer Tub bearing replacement. The bottom of the molded in motor mount is seen at the bottom left side of the tub in the second pic.

If you are game I would trim the fray off your original belt and slip it back on the Clutch Pulley. As I mentioned all three of my machines have a very snug fit with the drive motor tension bolt released. Start a Spin Only cycle so you don’t fill the wash tub with water and observer the Drive Belt/Clutch Pulley rotation in spin cycle.

We are looking to see if the Clutch Pulley runs true with no wobble. Safety first with that front cover off and eye protection on. Can you relay the results if you can get the original belt back on?

You are going to need the Service Manual Google this; 16022808 Revision 0 December 2003

Try a couple of the hits and you will find the FAV6800A/FAV9800A SM.

Attached Files

Edited by dh1200s, 06 March 2011 - 12:31 PM.

#23 dh1200s



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Posted 02 March 2011 - 01:49 PM

i can't recall having any issues replacing the belts, but it is odd that the description of the part link above is "Belt - Stretch" - your belt may be streched - can you walk the replacement on a grove or two at a time ?

Kdog how may belts have you had to replace on the FAV6800A/FAV9800A? I'm and original owner of a series 16 machine 7/05 purchase date. I'ts still running with the original belt with no sign of wear and ditto for the Series 10 and 17. Well the Series 10 machine is a test bed machine now it did not need any work I just wanted the hands on. I changed the Tub Seal /tranny O-Ring/ Outer tub bearings/Spinner support bearings just for the hands on.

I had dropped the Clutch Pulleys on all three machines prior to recording the cycle count below for Clutch Pulley clean up and re-lube of the One-Way roller clutches needle bearings. The Drive Belts on the Series 10 and 16 machines were in solid shape referenced to the Series 17 machine.

The cycle count of the machines on 4/17/10 was;

Series 10 2996
Series 16 1845
Series 17 345

It sounds like the cycle count on crisscross machine must be very low as the original owner and washer usage history.

There is something else going on here. The drive belt fray and gash/cut I see from the pic’s is a real mystery to me. The rest of the ribbed drive belt looks excellent from the pic. No cracking/deterioration of the groves and peaks and the belt looks brand new for 6 year old machine. It looks similiar to the Series 10 belt I have in my hands with 2996+ cycle count.

If the recent Drive Belt crisscross received is the wrong drive belt. I hope crisscross will try to install the original belt and run a Spin Only cycle (with an empty wash basket) of the machine and provide some info on just how the drive belt is tracking on the Motor Pulley/Clutch Pulley under operation. I don’t think the belt will track off with it’s current condition but that’s a WAG.

Crisscross if you can mount the original drive belt I would start Spin Only cycle for a few minutes. As the machine spins up it will start a low 90 RPM then gradually step up in speed. If you can carefully watch the belt and Clutch Pulley rotation and see if the Clutch Pulley is spinning true with no wobble and the Drive Belt is tracking with no movement and trying to walk off the Drive Motor Pulley and Clutch Pulley.

If the belt stays on after few minutes I would hit the off button and go to page 14 of the Service Manual and start a Quick Spin Test. On page 14 it will show you how to enter in to Service Mode. Once in Service Mode start a Quick Spin Test. See if the Machine will spin up to “85.” on the LED Console which is 850 rpm the highest indicated Spin Speed the FAV6800A will spin up to. This test will take about 6 minutes or so. From a few feet back safety glasses on flash light in hand watch the spin cycle process and see if the Clutch Pulley continues to run true with no wobble as the RPM increases thru the test. There may be some slight shaking of the Wash Tub as the machine spins up. If there are any issue hit the OFF key pad to terminate the test.

If the Drive belt stays on do a Quick Wash cycle (with min machine settings) and see if you make it thru the cycle while observing Drive Belt tracking. The Motor will spin the Clutch Pulley with CW rotation in wash agitate part of the cycle. Just a note on normal 1st water fill of the machine. The Control Board will signal the Motor Control Board to power the Drive Motor CWW driving the wash basket CCW during the water fill part of the wash cycle. I feel the design team did this to better distribute laundry detergent and water saturation to the wash load it may be normal operation for all TL’s I just don’t know. After the water fill cycle the machine will enter into wash/agitate and the Clutch Pulley will be driving CW and only the tumblers will rotate. Can you observe the Drive Belt tracking and report on your observation.

Real important question for me…….. how long can tolerate the troubleshooting/down time?

You know what it cost for the repair person to come on site…….my time is free and I won’t bail on you. You will be in control of when to pull the plug on the troubleshooting……….Dick

Edited by dh1200s, 05 March 2011 - 12:51 PM.

#24 jermitts



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Posted 05 March 2011 - 02:52 AM

I'm just gonna throw this out there.

The serpentine belt on my 1996 F150 (200k miles) was cracked and worn and just nearly about to fall in two. It also didn't "look right", and the oil guy said I should change it. (No, I don't do oil. But I do just about everything else on it!)

I changed it and the new squeak was unbearable. After a day, I took the new belt off, and the bad spot on it looked *EXACTLY* like the bad spot on your damaged belt. I saw that my tensioner pulley was cracked a little, and only like $5, so I replaced that- a 3 minute job. Should have done more up-front troubleshooting-- once I got the original pulley off, not only could I see that there was nothing wrong with it or the bearing inside, but the original is made of metal and the new ones are made out of some kind of abs/fiber/resin stuff.

Only upon further investigation did I realize some other things:

  • The belt walks to the front by one v-groove and then to the back by one v-groove, about 10 times per second with the motor idling.
  • The water pump pulley has an indentation all the way around it, the exact width of the "old" v-belt- which is one v shy of the actual, original, manufacturer v-belt. The last (missing) v on the nearly-broken belt is mysteriously missing, I notice after another inspection. Not manufactured missing--- worn plum off missing.
  • And most importantly-- the squeak is coming from the alternator. Spinning the wheel on the alternator reveals the actual problem-- the alternator shaft is bent. Not enough to throw the serpentine belt, but enough to make it walk one v to the front and one v to the back 10 times every second, eventually ripping an edge off the belt.

Now, I'm not sayin it's the alternator shaft on your washer, I think that's darn unlikely, but after reading all this and never having seen this kind of beast you're working on (and having a thrown belt when experts are saying it's just way too tight for that to even happen) and I'm going to say you've got something out of true somewhere.

"to make a short story long."

Don't forget the safety glasses.


Edited by jermitts, 05 March 2011 - 02:52 AM.

#25 dh1200s



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Posted 05 March 2011 - 12:28 PM

Hey Jeremy,

“”Should have done more up-front troubleshooting”” Jeremy I need that hammer and nail graphic that was posted in this thread…..... but I hope a big “”Right On ”” will do.

“” (and having a thrown belt when experts are saying it's just way too tight for that to even happen)””

I’m 100% with you and I’m asking the owner to do some deeper troubleshooting……….I hope I have not frustrated him with the process. It is my experience that this is a very uncommon failure of the Drive Belt. As I mentioned “”There is something else going on here.””.

"to make a short story long." Yea none of my post are short…………eating up clusters on the server hard drive.

Ditto on the “”Don't forget the safety glasses.””

Thank you for your comments, a very refreshing post, a rock solid common sense approach to troubleshooting that should be applied to getting this boat anchor back in service………….Dick

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