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Maytag Transmission Rebuild, Washer (LAT8234AAE)
#1
Posted 04 March 2011 - 01:42 AM
I am a Sophomore at my local University here in New Mexico. Last week, my other washing machine smoked its motor. I am not interested in repairing that machine. Last Summer, I found a Maytag washer next to a dumpster. I added a spring from Ace Hardware to the motor bracket to hold what looked like a automotive belt tight on the pulleys. The unit operated well, except for that the tub would not spin. I turned the input shaft both ways, and observed the motor reversing, but the output shaft only agitates.
What could be the problem with the transmission? I looked at the exploded view, and couldn’t figure out how it worked.
Thanks,
Big Bird
#2
Posted 04 March 2011 - 02:17 AM
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#3
Posted 04 March 2011 - 02:11 PM
Ok, I read those posts and followed the arguments throughly. Let me rephrase them here:
Argument 1:
Premise: " I thought that the tub bearing needed to be replaced and so I spent $150"
Conclusion: "I wasted my money because the tub bearing was not the problem."
Argument 2:
Premise: "I thought a standard automotive belt would work fine"
Conclusion: "I was wrong and replacing the belts fixed the motor cut out on spin"
My motor does not squeal at any time, and it just agitates. The motor reverses and the tub drains fine, but the machine continues to agitate until the end of the cycle.
So, in conclusion, the tub bearing is not defective because the machine does not grind, squeal or shut off; and the automotive belts should be replaced, but there is another problem that must be resolved first.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Big Bird
#4
Posted 04 March 2011 - 03:24 PM
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#5
Posted 04 March 2011 - 03:35 PM
More archives: http://appliantology...__1#entry184232
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#6
Posted 04 March 2011 - 05:31 PM
I removed the tubs and belts.
I see that it is the CASE of the transmission that rotates in the spin cycle. Correct?
The brake is not being released. The transmission case does not rotate no matter which direction I turn the pulley. At this point, I feel that the transmission might be OK.
What could be the problem?
Thanks,
Big Bird
#7
Posted 04 March 2011 - 05:49 PM
I removed the pulley in order to continue to the transmission dismounting.
I found damage to the helical drive threads. This damage is preventing the pulley from traveling upwards and disengaging the brake.
Do you think there could be other issues that would prevent the motor from spinning the transmission case?
Thanks,
Big Bird
#8
Posted 04 March 2011 - 06:28 PM
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For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship
#9
Posted 04 March 2011 - 06:28 PM
One on one repair help now available !
http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/
http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501
http://www.facebook.com/ApplTech29501
www.eliteapplianceservice.org
#10
Posted 04 March 2011 - 07:13 PM
I missed 5pm for the parts shop. I know I need buy the brake tool, and might have more luck tapping it with the hammer.
Right now I’m using my largest Channellocks and they have a great grip, but even counter-holding the transmission case with my hand it is resisting me.
I removed the locking clip.
Is this correct?
Big Bird

#11
Posted 04 March 2011 - 08:57 PM
One on one repair help now available !
http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/
http://twitter.com/ApplTech29501
http://www.facebook.com/ApplTech29501
www.eliteapplianceservice.org
#12
Posted 04 March 2011 - 10:15 PM
The wrench is a MUST though, you might be able to wrap a belt tightly around trans to get a good reef on 'er (get a helper)
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com
For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship
#13
Posted 05 March 2011 - 04:29 PM
Because the appliance parts store had no stock of the ‘‘Brake Removal Tool’’ which Maytag no longer makes (which is not to say that other companies do not make them), I decided to purchase a Maytew 5/16 Long Taper Drift, and a 3LB Engineer Hammer. The tools worked very well to rotate the Brake counterclockwise from the Tub Brace. I used oil to help reduce the friction of the threadings, and reduce the force required for removal.
I’m very satisfied with the serviceability of the SKF 6206 Brake Bearing, and don’t feel like buying a new one at Motion Industries for $20.
The transmission operates smoothly and so I will not be overhauling the unit. The splines of the brake and transmission case also appear intact, and should drive the tub nicely.
I will order the Drive Pulley on Monday, and report back upon assembly.
Big Bird



#14
Posted 05 March 2011 - 08:11 PM
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com
For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship
#15
Posted 05 March 2011 - 09:14 PM
I think you may be right. The clutch may be jammed in travel and this may have overloaded the pulley, cracking the drive threads.
I’ll check it out after I finish studying. I have two midterms next week.
Big Bird
#16
Posted 05 March 2011 - 09:25 PM
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com
For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship
#17
Posted 05 March 2011 - 10:19 PM
Very nice pictorial coverage of your progress, looks like another Merit Apprenticeship well in the making
Very nice indeed!
Regardless of the outcome of your washer, BigBird, congratulations on your appointment to Merit Apprentice Appliantologist!
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#18
Posted 05 March 2011 - 10:52 PM
Edited by kdog, 05 March 2011 - 10:54 PM.
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com
For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship
#19
Posted 05 March 2011 - 11:45 PM
You got in with your skill.
I got in by acting big and talk’n rich.
#20
Posted 06 March 2011 - 12:52 AM
I feel flattered.
Now I just need to feel clean socks
Big Bird
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