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New generation LG drain hose replacement


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12 replies to this topic

#1 ds7485

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 06:54 PM

Hi all,

I have question regarding the new type of drain hose I received when I went to purchase a replacement hose for my LG 6810ST/01 dishwasher. I also want to state for the record that I'm not much of a "handy-man", although I would argue that my problem is lack of experience, I'm sure others would have other points to add :)

Story:

My LG 6810 dishwasher is leaking from a break in the drain hose. I called up LG Canada and they directed me to the local parts dealer and I went and purchased a replacement hose. The problem I have is that the new hose has been re-designed and has a hard plastic U bend with a black tube running off of it (See link below), the old hose was a simple straight hose.

http://www.repaircli...in-Hose/1557758

My questions is:

- where/what does the black tube connect to? I think I see a connection to a port on the "water inlet"? But I would be guessing since I have no knowledge of these things, and my instincts tell me not to connect anything on an out-going drain hose to anything but a drain. The port I see is probably for air. Also note that I saw a picture online where the drain hose was connected but the black tube removed completely? I like that solution, but I fear spillage.


I arrived at this forum because I found this thread:

http://applianceguru...um1/28027.html#

and in the last post by Samurai Appliance Repair Man there is a link to the exact drain hose part posted above, and I was hoping someone here could give me some tech advice.

I can provide more info if needed. I have a feeling I should provide some pics of the side panel of the dishwasher, let me know if those are needed. What hurts is that the D/W worked fine with the simple straight hose but they wont sell me one, and all I wanted to do is take the old one off and pop on a new one... I'm really not good for much else.

-Dave

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#2 john63

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 10:03 PM

LG Canada and the Parts Dealer "dropped the ball".

When replacing an LG dishwasher DRAIN HOSE on an "older" model (approx serial number range~506KWxxx to 810KWxxx)...

You'll need the *redesigned* DRAIN HOSE (AEM69493803)

***AND***

The water fill float assy---which located on the left-side of the d/w.

This is called the GUIDE ASSEMBLY (4975DD1001)


The *redesigned* GUIDE ASSY has an additional connector on it (at the top) to allow connecting the small black tube from the *redesigned* DRAIN HOSE.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 kdog

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 10:19 PM

LG Canada and the Parts Dealer "dropped the ball".


Unfortunately still a constantly occuring issue here :(

The only supplier here so far that even seems to "get it" with their modification series' is Reliable Parts
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#4 john63

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 10:27 PM

It's a problem in the USA as well, Kdog.

This week---I find out that the LG dishwasher LDF7811 has...

Cinco

Five

1,2,3,4---5

Five *different* MAIN BOARDS.

LG Parts Research was *unaware* of this.

Three were shown on the LG Parts Look-up.

A fourth was "discovered" by a person at Parts (wrong one though).

Finally---------another fella with at least some degree of knowledge "found" the fifth (and correct) one.

<<<sigh>>>
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 10:42 PM

. . You'll need the *redesigned* DRAIN HOSE (AEM69493803)

. . seems to be the same one he has linked to (according to RepairClinic)

but new Float /Guide 4975DD1001 not listed at RP
.

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#6 john63

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 10:51 PM

<<<but new Float /Guide 4975DD1001 not listed at RP>>>

*************

RepairClinic got it right.

There's a note/message which states: "May need part number 1267810"

This is RepairClinics' part number for the LG dishwasher GUIDE ASSY.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 ds7485

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 11:16 PM

Thanks John63.

When I called the parts place they did mention something about needing another part, a guide assembly, that they would have to order it. I said the machine works fine, all i need is a simple drain hose, there's a small break in the line that leaks water (slowly). Then when I showed up they brought me the new part and said that it was the new hose, I could not get the the simple one anymore. I said I would call LG and ask them what's up, they wont let me talk to their tech people. There's more story here but I'll spare you.

John, if I go buy this assembly, is it easy to install? Do I need a pro or is it simple?

In the meantime I may take some pics of the left side panel. If you say it's easy, I may try it myself and beg you for instructions... the pics could come in handy then.

Thanks again,
Dave

#8 john63

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Posted 04 March 2011 - 11:22 PM

With the dishwasher removed from under-the-counter---it's a simple job.

**********

<<<I may try it myself>>>

**********

I think you'll do fine.

Post any questions if needed...
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 ds7485

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 12:03 AM

quote from Repair clinic:

"New updated drain hose. *Black rubber hose goes to top of water inlet housing on side of dishwasher. May need to order item# 1267810 as well "

http://www.repaircli...-Fittings-Parts

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Funny thing is, I see the water inlet mounted on the side of my DW with the 2 ports at the top. The black tube off the drain hose meets it perfectly (although the tube is slightly bigger). Its like fitting a piece in puzzle, it goes right in. My worry is why would water from the drain hose need to go back into the DW - or as I now know - the "water inlet" which I assumes regulates water coming into the DW.

I'm beginning to think it's for water overflow from the inlet to go straight to drain, I did read somewhere someone had an issue with water spilling out of the top of the inlet. Anyways, I'll post some pics first before I go waste everyone's time with my speculations.

-dave

#10 john63

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 12:48 AM

<<<Funny thing is, I see the water inlet mounted on the side of my DW with the 2 ports at the top. The black tube off the drain hose meets it perfectly (although the tube is slightly bigger).>>>

***********

If there are *two* fittings on your GUIDE ASSY---simply attach the black hose & use either a small gear-type clamp or a nylon tie to secure it. All done.

***********

<<<My worry is why would water from the drain hose need to go back into the DW>>>

***********

The original DRAIN HOSE did not have a *siphon break* to prevent continued draining of water during the *wash cycle*. This was a problem encountered in d/w installations where the drain hose is too low (as in draining to a pipe below the dishwasher floor).

The second DRAIN HOSE had a siphon-break. If a blockage occurred (or partial blockage)---water *shot-out* of the siphon-break. Not good.

The third DRAIN HOSE design prevents this---by providing a route for the "backed-up" drain water if/when a blockage occurs...
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#11 ds7485

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 10:20 AM

cool.

Im out the next few days but I will take a run at it sometime midweek.

thx again,

-ds

#12 ds7485

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 11:26 PM

I finally got back to this today and when I opened up the DW I found that the Guide Assay in my machine only has 1 (one) port/fitting. (I was wrong in my previous post when I said that there were 2 ports, I thought I saw 2 when it was open, I was sure I saw 1 though)

********************
If there are *two* fittings on your GUIDE ASSY---simply attach the black hose & use either a small gear-type clamp or a nylon tie to secure it. All done.
*********************

John, do I need to have one port open to air? i.e. do I need to have 1 free port after I connect the black tube from the drain hose?

I plan to connect to the existing one and give it a run, if you say I need the second one for air maybe I can drill a little hole? very carefully :)

#13 ds7485

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 11:45 PM

JOHN, IGNORE MY PREVIOUS EMAIL.

I just noticed that the back portion at the top of the guide assay has 2 square openings, if this thing needs to be open to air its got plenty. Sorry about that.

-ds








Recent blog entries on this topic

Photo

New generation LG drain hose replacement

By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 05 March 2011 - 10:05 AM



When replacing an LG dishwasher DRAIN HOSE on an "older" model (approx serial number range~506KWxxx to 810KWxxx)...

You'll need the *redesigned* DRAIN HOSE (AEM69493803)

***AND***

The water fill float assy---which...

Read Full Entry →

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