GE WCVH6800 - Pump runs, door won't unlock, won't start
Posted 07 March 2011 - 01:59 AM
- GE WCVH6800 Front loader
- Floor perfectly level, solid, sturdy
- Drains to an in-wall plumbing inlet just above the top edge of the washer, no siphoning
The problem? When the thing fails, we have to unplug it to reset it. The failure mode is pretty simple. You fire it up, the door-lock relay fires with a buzz, the basket briefly rotates one way, then the other. Several times from the top front inside of the unit, we hear two or three "ting tings" of what I think is a different relay firing. Sounds like a turn signal. After that, the pump fires up. Yes, there is no water in the machine. We've drained it manually, we've left the drain open with a dehumidifier running all weekend long. There really is no water in it. I've pulled the front panel and fondled the hoses to try to massage more water out of the hoses, acting more the appliance geisha than samurai.
ANYWAY if I was to apply my automotive chops to this problem, I would say that whatever sensor is in charge of telling the brain that there is still water in the system has failed. If I knew what to buy, I'd buy it and install it and see if that was the problem. Therein lies the rub: what should I buy? Besides, of course, a new, non-GE washer. I'm done with GE.
I'd love to know what the hard-reset keystroke sequence is, particularly if it will open the door so we can get the imprisoned laundry out before we take it out back and destroy it with thermite bombs. I'd go to great lengths to get the service manual, as well.
THANKS VERY MUCH in advance. Feel free to point me to links to this problem elsewhere. I found this thread:
Given all this, I would start by replacing the Water Level Pressure Switch, which is (I think) what I'm calling a sensor. Is this where I should start?
Posted 07 March 2011 - 02:12 AM
What you've described *is* familiar though...
When the START button is pushed---the MAIN BOARD will initiate a "System Test"
During this test---a problem was detected which triggered a Drain Mode that likely runs endlessly.
In most front loading washers (within 7 or 8 years old) this is usually caused by a failed WATER LEVEL SENSOR.
Hopefully someone with GE training can add more or confirm...
Edited by john63, 07 March 2011 - 02:13 AM.
L-O-N-G cycle times
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
Posted 07 March 2011 - 03:49 AM
I have found some archives about this. Someone recommended a new control board ($225) and said that's worked for them in the past, and said it's what GE says to do. The OP tried it, and it didn't work, and the guy said
"Maybe you did this already but check the wiring to the control board. Some of that wiring is tiny and one small crimp or cut can cause problems. Its not always an obvious break in the wire."
Which, yes, is the next thing I'm going to try! After that, I think the next thing I try might just be a Samsung!
Once I get a service manual, I can check senders. Or, I could just spend my time WORKING and earn money for a new one. It's a hard choice. Fix something, or pass it on.
Ok, I ramble.
Posted 07 March 2011 - 06:46 AM
If plugged the machine could think there is still water in the machine.
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Posted 07 March 2011 - 08:09 AM
I would get a LG if I was going for a new machine.
Posted 07 March 2011 - 08:34 AM
especially if a merciless reaming on repair parts is a good thing...
also on topic... i have had two cases where pump running non-stop with door locking, can't reset without unplugging has been a motor inverter board failure... no diagnostic tests to confirm this other than the jackasses at GE techline telling me about it
Posted 07 March 2011 - 09:12 AM
Test Mode Description
t01 Model ID Verifies (or sets on new board) the proper model id
t02 Error Codes Lists up to 10 control-detected problems
t03 Software ID Verifies using latest control-EEPROM-inverter software
t04 LED Illumination and Button Test Verifies that all displays and buttons work
t05 Pump Test Operates pump
t06 Pressure Switch Test Fills to all 3 fill levels, then pumps out water
t07 Thermistor/Heater Test Verifies that both the thermistor and heater work
t08 Hot Water Test Verifies hot water valve works
t09 Cold Water Test Verifies cold water valve works
t10 Tumble Test Verifies washer tumbles (i.e. wash cycle)
t11 Spin Test Verifi es washer spins
t12 Dispenser Test Verifies dispenser fill works―for all four fi ll modes
t13 EOL Test Performs factory end-of-line test sequence
t14 Spin Test Verifies washer spin speeds
To manually unlock door:
Disconnect the washer from electrical supply.
WARNING: To avoid injury, ensure all mechanical movement has stopped.
Remove the service panel.
Reach behind and up the right side of the front panel,
pull the release ring down, then open the door
For manuals and lots of other goodies,
become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/
before you buy a Samsung, try to find the Service Manual
. . I think the next thing I try might just be a Samsung!
Need parts? Call our Parts Department now! 877-803-7957
Posted 07 March 2011 - 12:41 PM
Posted 07 March 2011 - 09:57 PM
Hello! I'm pretty psyched about this forum. I'd go to great lengths to get the service manual, as well.
For manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/
Need parts? Call our Parts Department now! 877-803-7957
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