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LG WM2101HW - Wash Drum Hitting Washer Door


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14 replies to this topic

#1 robinasu

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 06:29 PM

Hi, my new LG washer has a problem during medium rpm spin cycles. The wash drum is either moving too far forward and hitting the door due to lack of shock damping or there is too much air pressure being created when the drum moves, which pushes the door open till it is stopped by the locking latch. It is very loud and not normal. I've tried small, medium, and large loads and they all do it. Although, more with small to medium loads. I am leaning towards the excess air pressure cause because I hear a ton of air noise and I have been watching the spin cycle and taken rough measurements. I haven't read anything like this problem online. My fried has the same unit and has never had the problem. It's odd.

I noticed there are some "bellows" in the design diagrams that appear to vent the drum as it moves and essentially acts like an accordion. It looks like there is the primary vent on top, the hose for the dispenser which could act as a vent, and maybe one vent on the bottom of the drum connected to the drain pump. Is there any way these could have been installed incorrectly, or maybe become blocked? Has anyone heard of this before? The LG washers are pretty much all the same design, so this should be a common problem assuming the unit was built properly, which is why I am leaning towards an assembly issue or something. Thanks for reading.

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#2 kdog

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 06:51 PM

Hi, my new LG washer has a problem


Make sure you've removed ALL of the shipping materials, and relevel washer, be sure to tighten locknuts up to cabinet once legs are adjusted. Make sure you have full loads in machine, a hoodie and couple of pairs of underwear just won't do.
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#3 john63

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 07:16 PM

Let me start by explaining a few features on this washer---perhaps this may allay any concerns (or make better sense).

This washer has something called: "True Balance".

True Balance involves using a *Balance Ring* located at the front of the tub assy and is filled with oil & steel balls.

An *inertia sensor* is mounted at the top of the tub assy as well.

The spin profile will be as follows:

0 to 400 rpm : Tub begins ramp-up to spin.
At this time--the entire washer usually has low-resonance shake/wobble/spring noise/sound of air.
As the tub reaches 400 rpm---the steel balls within the Balance Ring begin to *separate* from
each other and will move to a position--which will stabilize the spin tub at rpms beyond 400rpm.
The amount or degree of stability will be dependent on the *quality* of the floor.
Obviously--on a concrete floor---the washer will be exceptionally smooth during spin.
On wood floors--especially less-than-stout wood flooring---the washer will be as stable as can be made
possible (slight continuous vibration).

400 to 1100 rpm: Smoothest possible spin performance occurs at these speeds.

400 to 0 rpm: On ramp-down---there will be a slight rattle/rattle/rattle/shake before the tub comes to a complete
stop.

The Inertia Sensor "tells" the MAIN BOARD the amount/degree of shaking of the TUB ASSY.

The MAIN BOARD is "timing" the amount of time it takes for the tub to stabilize before allowing the motor to "go to full throttle".

If it takes the tub too long to stabilize---the MAIN BOARD will "abort" the spin program.

Another attempt will be made after the tub tumbles laundry to redistribute the laundry load/weight.


******


LG washers *not* equipped with True Balance---will exhibit the following on WOOD FLOORS:

0 to 500 : Tub begins to spin. Pronounced shaking of the tub & washer body is noticed along with typical
noises from a rotating assy.

550 rpm: Imbalance is at it's WORST/MOST SEVERE

600 to 750 rpm: Tub & washer body continue to shake but *less so* as rpm speed moves past 550 rpm.

750 rpm: At this rpm---the degree of shake/noise is half-as-severe as it was at 550rpm.

Above 750 rpm: Again the severity of the shake/wobble/noise somewhat diminishes and the washer continues it's
spin cycle with a moderate degree of continuous resonance. This varies depending upon the type
and size of laundry load.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#4 robinasu

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 11:18 PM

Hi all, any idea what is going on here? Please see my video. Does anyone have a service manual? I also posted a request in the service manual request forum.



#5 john63

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Posted 14 March 2011 - 11:57 PM

What *load* was in the tub during the video?
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#6 kdog

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 12:08 AM

Topics merged
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For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#7 john63

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 12:09 AM

Topics merged

*******

Thanks:)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 robinasu

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 01:35 AM

It was a mixed medium load. No matter the load, it is not acceptable. Has anyone seen this before?

#9 john63

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 08:49 AM

Yes
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 robinasu

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 05:52 PM

Hi John, if there are any keywords to an existing topic can you let me know? I've searched the forum to no avail. Do you recall if there is a fix? If this was a common problem i am sure it would be all over the internet, or no? The wash drum air venting doesn't seem to be sufficient. The repair people just replaced the shocks and it still has the problem. I kept the old shocks are they are in working order (all three have the same damping characteristics). My old beach towels had a lot of residual regular detergent in them on my first wash and the machine did "over-sud". Maybe this made some kind of vent valve sticky?

Would you happen to have a WM2101 service manual you can share? I would really appreciate it.

#11 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 10:21 PM

I PMed you the manual for the WM2075, which should be close enough for what you need.

#12 john63

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 11:10 PM

If the washer is on a WOOD FLOOR...

On a number of different topics/posts---I've recommended the Samsung front load washer over the LG.

Samsung's Vibration Reduction Technology (VRT) is more effective on WOOD FLOORING than LGs True Balance system.

NOTE:

If the laundry room floor is CONCRETE but the room is *cold*...

This can cause **thickening** of the oil in the Balance Ring---which causes the Steel Balls within the Balance Ring to require more time to "travel" and reach the correct positions within the ring to stabilize the tub during the Spin Cycle.

The temperature of the laundry room should be at least "room temperature".

Edited by john63, 15 March 2011 - 11:23 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#13 robinasu

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 02:06 PM

Thank you for the manual. Based on a comparison of the unit and service manual last night, all LG's are essentially the same construction. The build quality seems to be pretty good. Time will tell regarding the design. I have confirmed it is indeed air pressure popping the door open by moving the drum manually. I removed and inspected the "bellows" rear vent hose and the dispenser hose. Both have pop valves (they look like mushrooms) that close each hose when activated, although the valves are not illustrated in the service manual I have. The valves are activated by air pressure created by the drum during movement. The valves close before maximum pressure is achieved, which then creates a pressure buildup, mainly during front-back drum movement - this pops the door open until it is stopped by the door lock. Through trial and error, the rear "bellows" pop valve is required to keep water and suds from exiting the rear of the unit. The door problem was solved by removing the pop valve on the dispenser hose. This allows more air to move and reduces the pressure buildup in the drum. There does not seem to be any major side effects from removing the pop valve in the dispenser hose. Maybe there is a little more noise, but very minimal. Does anyone know what the pop valve in the dispenser hose is supposed to do? Maybe the pop valves are there to reduce noise, keep water in, and perhaps control the max drum excursion through air vent control. If the latter is true, it's crude and doesn't do a very good job.

My main question now is: why did my unit do this in the first place? Other units do not seem to have this problem. Perhaps there is a third pop valve in a hose under the drum that is stuck shut?


Thanks again for the manual!

#14 john63

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 03:29 PM

<<<all LG's are essentially the same construction.>>>

******

Yes--with minor changes over roughly 9 years.

******

<<<Does anyone know what the pop valve in the dispenser hose is supposed to do?>>>

******

*Prevent* water leakage at the DETERGENT DISPENSER and the rear AIR VENT during the Spin Cycle.

They are called---as you described them---Mushroom Valves.

Air movement during Tumble/Spin is normal. Also---when the DOOR is opened/closed.


I'm still "in the dark"----what type of floor is the laundry room?

I cannot over-emphasize the absolute-paramount importance of knowing whether the washer is on a WOOD or CONCRETE floor.

This---to the average consumer---seems totally bewildering---"Why does THAT matter?"

Edited by john63, 16 March 2011 - 04:15 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#15 robinasu

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 07:16 PM

Hi John, the machine is on a concrete slab. The dryer is mounted above using a stacking kit. The unit is in heated room which is constantly around 70F.






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