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LG WM2277HB washer, OE error code


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12 replies to this topic

#1 hotairgypsy

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 12:46 PM

I am getting an OE error code...i have pulled the filter and there is nothing blocking...i pulled the drain pump and tested the ohms and it was 16 ohms. i bench tested and it was spinning like a wildman...put the washer back together and ran a load again and it did the same error code...i drained it again and stuck my finger in too feel if the impeller was spinning and it was...i did apply some pressure too see if it could handle some load and it was fine...all i know is the washer is not flushing out the water...I did check the hose coming out of the pump too the house drain and it seems to be clear...did not stick anything thing in there just blew in it...

I need some idea.

thanks

frank

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#2 john63

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 03:05 PM

Try the following:

1) Examine the TUB-TO-PUMP-ASSY hose for restriction/blockage.

2) If PUMP-TO-STANDPIPE drain is clear (air can been blown through)---replace the DRAIN MOTOR.

Some DRAIN MOTORS can "run" but not sufficiently fast enough to move/force water out of the washer.

This is usually caused by a water leak **into the Pump Motor Housing** that caused corrosion.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 hotairgypsy

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 03:19 PM

Try the following:

1) Examine the TUB-TO-PUMP-ASSY hose for restriction/blockage.

2) If PUMP-TO-STANDPIPE drain is clear (air can been blown through)---replace the DRAIN MOTOR.

Some DRAIN MOTORS can "run" but not sufficiently fast enough to move/force water out of the washer.

This is usually caused by a water leak **into the Pump Motor Housing** that caused corrosion.


http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HB

this the one you talking about...the one which outputs to the hose which goes down the drain????

#4 john63

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 03:45 PM

Some LG WM2277 (if not all) have a RECIRCULATION MOTOR and is not the same as the DRAIN MOTOR.

The DRAIN MOTOR is on the left side of the Pump Housing (if looking at the washer from the front).

When ordering a DRAIN MOTOR---try entering the original part number:

4681EA2001N


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 hotairgypsy

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 04:22 PM

Some LG WM2277 (if not all) have a RECIRCULATION MOTOR and is not the same as the DRAIN MOTOR.

The DRAIN MOTOR is on the left side of the Pump Housing (if looking at the washer from the front).

When ordering a DRAIN MOTOR---try entering the original part number:

4681EA2001N


i now know which one you are talking about...that is the one i pulled before and checked the ohms and it was 16ohms...so just so i understand even though it is spinning strong and it tests out ohms it can still be bad due to it sicking in air from corrosion? just making sure i understand what i am seeing. i know when i had it out i pulled on the impeller and it did come in and out probably a mm or two of play

#6 john63

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 04:32 PM

<<<even though it is spinning strong and it tests out ohms it can still be bad>>>

*********

Yes.

It never hurts to re-verify that the entire drain system is clear before ordering the DRAIN MOTOR.

As you posted---the DRAIN HOSE that leads from the Pump Assy to the back of the washer to the drain standpipe/sink is "clear" (by blowing threw it).

Have you checked the TUB-TO-PUMP-ASSY hose?

**********

<<<i know when i had it out i pulled on the impeller and it did come in and out probably a mm or two of play>>>

**********

Normal. Not an indication or evidence of a fault.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 hotairgypsy

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 04:36 PM

As you posted---the DRAIN HOSE that leads from the Pump Assy to the back of the washer to the drain standpipe/sink is "clear" (by blowing threw it).

Have you checked the TUB-TO-PUMP-ASSY hose?


i have not check that one yet...i will do it later today..i assume your talking about the accordion looking one which is like 2 inch diameter...i will pull it out and check it all out

#8 john63

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 04:41 PM

<<<i assume your talking about the accordion looking one which is like 2 inch diameter>>>

**********

Yes.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 hotairgypsy

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 05:04 PM

Posted Image

<<<i assume your talking about the accordion looking one which is like 2 inch diameter>>>

**********

Yes.




ok...i just pulled it apart and here are pics of what i found(or didnt find)

Posted Image

this is how i found them...i did a quick unscientific test. I covered up the input line from tub and small line on the left. then blew air into the output of the drain hose and i couldn't hear a leak ...for all i know is is more subtle then my test but it is what i did

#10 john63

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 05:36 PM

I usually take a rag---and place it over the *gray* drain hose. Poke a hole on the rag & blow thru it.

If it appears restricted---there's likely a blockage at the *white elbow*. This is part of the drain hose assy and is located just above the midway mark of the washer on the left/rear corner. It can only be seen from the top of the washer.

Using a bright flashlight--it's possible to "see" if there's any debris in that "elbow".

I've used compressed air with very consistent results---to blast the blockage out (and down the drain).
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#11 hotairgypsy

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 05:46 PM

I usually take a rag---and place it over the *gray* drain hose. Poke a hole on the rag & blow thru it.

If it appears restricted---there's likely a blockage at the *white elbow*. This is part of the drain hose assy and is located just above the midway mark of the washer on the left/rear corner. It can only be seen from the top of the washer.

Using a bright flashlight--it's possible to "see" if there's any debris in that "elbow".

I've used compressed air with very consistent results---to blast the blockage out (and down the drain).


so if there is no blockage on the grey line then are we down to only one thing or anything else??

#12 john63

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 06:49 PM

I'd replace the DRAIN MOTOR.

I had one of these about a week ago...

Not draining----Drain Motor runs/sounds near-normal (combination of a buzz & gurgling-growl).

Installed new Drain Motor---resolved it.

New Drain Motor "buzzed" more/growled less.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 11:18 PM

Part link to drain pump: http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HB




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