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WM2487 HRM LG Tromm water fills with no power


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7 replies to this topic

#1 bcooling

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 02:19 PM

Hi Im new and looking for help.
I have a lg that will go crazy. It will somtimes stay in the spin cycle until you power off. It will fill the tub on the rinse cycle to 3/4 the way up the door. Then it will release the door latch and let all the water flood into the room. I am an electrician/hvac so I am familiar with working things. ok the cold water fill comes on, water starts flowing, I unplugged the 4 cold water solinoids, water still coming in. I UNPLUG the machine and it still pours in. I REPLACE the cold valve, and yes I do know its the cold valve that letting it in, The new valve does the same. The ONLY way to stop it from flowing is to cut the supply water off, and then the valve will reseat, then I cut the water back on and its ok. crazy right. IT did this on old and NEW valves. No change in city water pressure.
Getting an lg guy where i live is impossible, I ordered a pressure valve today, in my desperation, then I found this site. I have read the same problem on a long ago post in this forum, the guy said he put a new water valve in, but didnt tell the host if that fixed it or not, I think it did not "could be why he didnt post again" who knows. I cant explain it but I do know whats happening, i know its crazy but true, I wouldnt beleive it if i read it either lol
HOPE some of you good people can help me out!
Thanks, Bcooling
615-517-5152 or Cattleman390@aol.com

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 02:27 PM

... I unplugged the 4 cold water solinoids, water still coming in.
... I UNPLUG the machine and it still pours in.
... I REPLACE the cold valve, and yes I do know its the cold valve that letting it in, The new valve does the same. The ONLY way to stop it from flowing is to cut the supply water off, and then ... but didnt tell the host if that fixed it or not, I think it did not "could be why he didnt post again"

1) with the Water Valves electrically disconnected, they shouldn't let any water in (bad Valves)
2) with no power to the Washer the Valeves would have no power . . . (bad Valves)
3) poster may have not returned to answer, because he no longer had a problem. . .
... there's the Main Water Valves, Dispenser Water Valves, etc ...
.

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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#3 bcooling

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 02:42 PM

what are the odds of getting a bad valve right out of the box, I would think slim. Has that been a problem that you have heard of?

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 03:18 PM

1) remove it from the Washing Machine . . .
2) Connect it to the Water Hose ...
3) ... ? ? ?
.

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#5 john63

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 03:41 PM

<<<It will somtimes stay in the spin cycle until you power off. It will fill the tub on the rinse cycle to 3/4 the way up the door. Then it will release the door latch and let all the water flood into the room.>>>

********

That *is* crazy!

The DOOR LOCK is designed (via the MAIN BOARD & WATER LEVEL SENSOR) to remain *locked* when an overflow has occurred.

The MAIN BOARD/WATER LEVEL SENSOR also activate the DRAIN MOTOR to drain water from the tub if an overflow condition occurs---even if the washer is "turned off" (Must Be Plugged in).

********

<<<I ordered a pressure valve today>>>

********

I agree--this is definitely "suspect".

I would also replace the COLD WATER VALVE ASSY as well. I've never had a factory "dud" but there's always the possibility of this.

********

<<<It will somtimes stay in the spin cycle until you power off.>>>

********

This concerns me as well.

Likely a faulty MAIN BOARD.


RepairClinic allows returning unneeded/incorrect parts.

The problems that your're having with this washer would be consistent with a major power surge (Transient Event).
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#6 bcooling

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 04:16 PM

I took the valve and it works fine outside the machine just like you suggested. I know you think im fos but I had two more people watch me unplug it and the water kept coming in. added the new valve and it did the same. John I think the pressure switch could be intermittet tell the board wild things, and the board keeps going through the cycle and at the end it opens the door like it should and walla, the flood begins.

#7 john63

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 04:25 PM

<<<I know you think im fos>>>

********

No--we've seen/read too much weird stuff:)

********

<<<I think the pressure switch could be intermittet tell the board wild things, and the board keeps going through the cycle and at the end it opens the door like it should and walla, the flood begins.>>>

********

You can try replacing the Water Level Switch first(AKA: Water Frequency Sensor).

If needed---order the MAIN BOARD later.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 kdog

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 08:52 PM

Links to Parts:

01049146.jpg

01059094.jpg


Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

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