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E Pluribus Unum -- Miele G858 Inlet/Drain Light


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14 replies to this topic

#1 Dr. Buzz

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 01:51 AM

We have a Miele Incognito G858 dishwasher. Since about two days ago, the dishwasher will fill with water (although it seems to take 10-20 aliquots), and then stop. The Inlet/Drain light blinks. After we shut the machine off, and start it again, the water drains. I have made sure that the three-stage filter in the floor of the unit is clean, as well as the non-return valve. The air gap is not plugged (visually, as well as evidenced by the draining of the unit). I saw on-line that there is an overflow reservoir that has a float in contact. I took off the toe kick and face plate, but do not see water in the bottom of that portion (in fact, it is dry as a bone). Any ideas where I should go from here?

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#2 kdog

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 12:49 PM

will fill with water (although it seems to take 10-20 aliquots), and then stop.



Not sure what Aliquots are, maybe a measure of time, but the circ. pump should make a brief start during the fill and then start again once filling is completed - could be stuck or siezed

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#3 Dr. Buzz

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 01:05 PM

Additionally, we have just cleaned out the valve box filter, to no avail...

#4 kdog

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 01:09 PM

circ. pump should make a brief start during the fill and then start again once filling is completed - could be stuck or siezed

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#5 Dr. Buzz

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 01:30 PM

Sorry, aliquots is kind of a chemistry term, where instead of giving one total volume at once, you give multiple smaller quantities.

Let me try this a bit more descriptively:
* When I turn on the machine and ask for a normal cycle (#4), then close the machine, I see the main power light on, hear the machine churning and emptying out the water from the last cycle (is there a separate pump to pump out water, or does it run off the circulation pump?).
* When this is done, I hear water coming into the machine for about five seconds: the main power light is flashing, and the inlet/drain light is lit continuously.
* The flow then stops, the inlet/drain light flashes four times (the main power light is still flashing).
* The water starts again for about five seconds (during which the inlet/drain light is continuously lit, and the main power light flashes).
* The flow again stops, the inlet/drain light flashes four times, and it starts letting water in again, etc.

This continued for a total of 18 cycles, and then there was a quiet click, and the machine halts. At this point, both the main power light and the inlet/drain light are flashing. There was no sound of the circulation pump after filling. The water at this point has reached a volume just below the level of the bottom of the door.

Any further insight???

#6 kdog

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 01:39 PM

Yes, there is a seperate Drain Pump
Couple of things could be occuring here, something is jamming the circ pump, as it needs to start to reset heater level switch - The level switch itself may have failed. The flashing Intake/Drain light is just a generic warning that there has been a malfuntion, those controls are quite sophisticated, and you need to enter diagnostics to be able to extract the fail code


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#7 Dr. Buzz

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 02:23 PM

Uh-oh... I may be a DIYer, but this is starting to sound daunting. I will look in parallel on-line for how to do so -- in case you're away -- but in case you are readily available, can you tell me how to enter diagnostics to get the fail code?

I should also re-mention (from the original post) that I still have the toe-kick and the bottom plate off the machine. If there a way to manually turn the circulation pump to see if we can clear the jam?

BTW, thanks for all your help so far, kdog! I have some friends up Calgary way -- I think I'm beholden to ya (once this thing gets fixed) to forward you some brew!

#8 kdog

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 04:17 PM

Circulation Pump – Release with Tool

  • <P align=left>
  • 1. Open the Door.

    <P align=left>
  • 2. Remove the Bottom Spray Arm and the Filter Assembly – Refer to Section 5.17 and Section 5.23.

    <P align=left>
  • 3. Slide the releasing tool prongs horizontally into the Circulation Pump Intake opening as far as possible.

Figure 5-30: Placing the Circulation Pump Tool into the Circulation Pump Intake Port

  • <P align=left>
  • 4. Ensure that the prongs engage in the Circulation Pump Impeller,

Figure 5-31: Engaging the Tool Prongs Into the Circulation Pump Impellers.

84 Technical Information G600 & G800 Electronic Dishwashers

Figure 5-32: Turning the Circulation Pump Tool

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  • <P align=left>
  • 5. Carefully turn the Releasing Tool back and forth about its axis to release the Pump Impeller.

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#9 Dr. Buzz

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 06:45 PM

Well, got inside of pump (I think I'll need a chiropractor after this), and the impeller seems to turn. I also managed to take the unit out of the cabinetry, turn it over, checked the float valve (just in case), put it back together again, and... same old thing.

I found some info on doing diagnostic codes, and tried the following (according to the sequence described on another website):

* Pressed and held Program Buttons 2 and 3 while turning the dishwasher on;
* Salt and Intake/Drain lights flashed (and continued to flash during this exercise).
* Program light 5 flashed;
* Pressed the Program Button #5; * Program lights 1 and 2 flashed (light next to button 4 glowed);
* Pressed and released Program Button #1;
* All Program Button lights were out; * Pressed Program Button #6 and released;
* Light next to Program Button #1 glowed.

Apparently, this reveals the fault code?

Thanks for hanging in there!

#10 Dr. Buzz

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 07:23 PM

Sorry, in the last step of the diagnostic, both the #1 and #6 lights stay on.

#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 07:31 PM

Open the dishwasher door and turn the dishwasher off.
Press and hold Program Buttons 2 and 3 while turning the dishwasher on.
Successful accessing of Service Mode 2 is indicated by a flashing Salt and Intake/Drain lamp.

Press the flashing Program Button 5.
Press the flashing Program Button 1.
One of the Program Button lamps 1 - 5, will light indicating a stored fault code message of F0 - F4.
If none of the Program Buttons light, a fault code of F5 - F9 is stored.
To display fault codes F5 - F9, press Program Button 6 once.
Program Button 6 will light along with one of the Program Buttons 1 - 5 indicating a fault code of F5 - F9.


could they make it any easier ? :wallbash:

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#12 Dr. Buzz

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 08:25 PM

Primo! So it looks like a heater level switch (which kdog supposed as one of the potential causes). In that the code says "Water drainage failure, heater level switch", is it saying that it can be something in addition to the heater level switch?

I don't suppose there is any way to short-circuit the heater level switch, in order to see if that is truly the problem???

Thanks to both of you!

#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 08:28 PM

kdog is the Miele Master

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#14 kdog

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 10:48 PM

You cannot Jumper the level switch because it is "active" that is, it needs to show closing either circuit to the control as feedback. This is why the circulation pump starts for a few seconds during the fill - should one of the circuits be incomplete, the error is activated. Does ALL the water get drained from the machine ? If so, the level control may have a blockage internally - gotta pull and tip the dishwasher to access components
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#15 Dr. Buzz

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 11:43 PM

kdog (a.k.a Miele Meister),

When I restart the machine on e.g., Program #4 after stopping it from the last try, it pumps for 30 seconds, then stops (I read there was a 30-second timer). I turn the machine off, back on, set Program #4, and it exhausts the last of the water without problem.

Sure ***seems** at this point as if it might be the heater level switch... I guess I still don't understand the logic of programming the machine to fill in those five-second periods (rather than continuously) if the switch is kaput. Seems to me that if the switch is on the fritz, it should just stop filling (and, BTW, not give a code implying a possible Water Drainage Failure). Any notions?

Having pulled the machine once, I don't relish doing it again to replace the switch, but at least I know what I'm in for. How's the song go? "The first cut is the deepest..." I have to admit, I've learned a lot through these frustrating days! I hope the switch does it!




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